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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2010 - 01:21pm PT
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Ed-
THX for the great list! I now see several more feasible possibilities for my planning. I had to dig out my old Meyers guidebook (Yellow version) to find many of these.
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Peter
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Apr 11, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
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Apron Jam is a good way to tire yourself out and reduce the chances of sending Mr. Natural clean. G for Grunty, reminded me a bit of the Grunty bit on Lord Caffeine.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 11, 2010 - 07:42pm PT
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Take Ed's lists to heart. As for 5.8/9 I had already actively pursued those in vedauwoo and Devil's Tower, before I went on the ow tours in the valley, so I don't really know climbs like that in Yosemite, though the doglegs on sentinel west face were good.
Valley ow tour #1 was the 10a tour, tour 2 was the 10c tour there weren't many b's in those days.....
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 12, 2010 - 04:28am PT
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The best list is on Alexander's monsteroffwidth.com site, linked on the previous page.
Here's a list in the style of the 1982 and 1987 Meyers guides.
Offwidth
1011. Supertoe Left 5.7
122. River Boulder - West Side 5.8
814. Little John - Left 5.8 *
1108. True Grit 5.8
9. Sawyer Crack 5.9
140. Kat Pinnacle - Northwest Corner p3 var. 5.9
296. Moss O Menos 5.9
313. Prime Time 5.9
657. Side Kick 5.9
809. La Cosita - Left Variation 5.9 *
1062. Sow Sow Sow p1 5.9
2042. Apron Jam 5.9 *
2151. Tithe 5.9
2216. Tilted Mitten - Center 5.9
2220. The Sphinxter 5.9
2228. The Mummy's Revenge 5.9
2619. Bridwell Corner 5.9 *
207. The Cleft 5.9+ R *
782. Peter Pan 5.9+ *
158. Banana Dreams 5.10a
187. Cookie - Left 5.10a
425. This and That p1 5.10a *
508. Mongolian Clusterf*#k 5.10a R
532. Chingando 5.10a *
544. Reed's Pinnacle - Left Side 5.10a *
558. Bongs Away - Center 5.10a
607. Copper Penny 5.10a *
767. The Hourglass - Right Side 5.10a
849. Gollum - Left Side 5.10a
1029. Orange Juice Avenue 5.10a *
1063. Sow Sow Sow 5.10a
1150. Absolutely Free - Right Side 5.10a R/X
1200. Secret Storm 5.10a *
1203. Doggie Do 5.10a
1463. Geek Towers - Center Route 5.10a
1465. Geek Towers - Right Side 5.10a A2
1934. Milk Dud 5.10a
2224. Yin-Yang p2 5.10a
2703. Pink Dream 5.10a ***
2707. Crack of Doom 5.10a *
2708. Crack of Despair 5.10a *
198. Vendetta 5.10b *
300. Strategery 5.10b
803. The Slack - Left Side 5.10b
1042. Dick Wrenching Classic 5.10b
1250. Smoky Pillar 5.10b
2564. Pulpit Pooper 5.10b *
2595. Jam Session 5.10b *
301. Armbar Province 5.10 A1
785. Peter Left 5.10b/c *
2631. Battle-Ship 5.10
200. Vendetta p5 left var. 5.10c
438. Generator Crack 5.10c TR *
700. Wild Turkey 5.10c *
1199. Edge of Night 5.10c *
1222. Fallout 5.10c
2219. Mental Block 5.10c **
2501. Barefoot Servants 5.10c
84. The Bin 5.10d *
97. Extra Credit 5.10d
169. Twilight Zone 5.10d **
495. The Shaft 5.10d
591. Steppin' Out 5.10d **
2691. Plumb Line 5.10d *
46. A Desperate Kneed 5.11a *
1670. Power Failure 5.11a **
2594. Cream 5.11a **
1724. Basket Case 5.11b
80. GRE 5.11
674. Scab Laborer 5.11? TR
1461. Freestone 5.11c ***
2688. Jaws 5.12a TR
890. Excalibur p8 5.12b
891. Excalibur p9 5.12c
892. Excalibur p13 5.12d
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 09:33am PT
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Thanks to all!
My list looks like this:
Trial by Fire
Pharaoh's Beard
Little John-Left Side (I already ahd plans for Little John Right Side)
Apron Jam (depends on the current rockfall situation)
Bongs Away-Left and then Center on toprope
This and That
Doggie Do-Toprope
Secret Storm
Orange Juice Avenue
Chingando
Generator Crack
For obvious reasons--such as time and prior commitments, I'll only subject myself to a few of them. Probably several trips to the TRs just to develop technique and endurance. I gotta' keep things in perspective, as I'm no longer "an incredibly strong and powerful young man."
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 12, 2010 - 10:17am PT
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Monster list ignores;
The Owl .12c - Superb!
Elephant's Eliminate 5.?? Tried it once, Cilley and I crashed and burned, as had Cos & Werner, anyone Else?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Apr 12, 2010 - 10:53am PT
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Ivo showed me pics of Dean doing Elephant's Eliminate. Yike.
Said it was likely the 2nd (if not 1st) ascent.
PS. Apron Jam is best done as a layback.
And I have found that Orange Juice Ave is a great learner's OW. Takes great pro, the crux is pretty short, and it's real OW (unlike other "easy" off-size cracks).
Last pitch of Independence Pinnacle Center is also a cool .10a, and you get to do the superb ".10d" finger crack to get up to it.
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scuffy b
climber
Where only the cracks are dry
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Apr 12, 2010 - 12:15pm PT
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Knob Hill Rapist is a good, well-protected 5.8 off width. A real one.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Green Cove slabbage BITD!
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Apr 12, 2010 - 12:29pm PT
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Ropist, actually.
Or so I heard.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 12:30pm PT
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Scuffy b--
Do you have a topo or directions to the route? Send me a personal w/a hand drawn sketch, if you would? I have lots to do at Knob Hill already--like everything in the McNamara guide!
Rodger
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 12, 2010 - 12:46pm PT
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You know BDC, you should really come to Indian Creek for proper training.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 12, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
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BDC, the Knob Hill Rapist topo is in the Reid's guide (probably in the Yellow Myers too)...
it is unprotected unless you have modern large cams or big-bros, we can set you up though.... there is a route next to it (which I'm not remembering here in the airport) which is 5.9 and gets you on top to set a TR if desired (for that matter, you can scramble up on top too).
Nice route, horrible name...
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scuffy b
climber
Where only the cracks are dry
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Apr 12, 2010 - 01:56pm PT
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Sphinxter also looks good.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 06:10pm PT
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Ed-
It IS in the Yellow Meyers guidebook; was not yet awake when I posted! Duh.
Thanks for the updated Knob Hill page! looks great. I need to spend some serious time there, seeing that I'm going to be camped at Hodgdon Meadows.
THX!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 06:19pm PT
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I have a set of Camalots from 0.3 thru 5; do I need any larger pieces? Also lots of older rigid style Friends thru 4". Suggestions for doubles or multiples?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 12, 2010 - 09:20pm PT
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A #6 Camalot could prove useful.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Apr 12, 2010 - 09:25pm PT
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Copper Penny (10a) is another easy TR to set.
My vote for best crag for 10a or less wide (heavy on the or less) is C4 wall.
All three of the Doggies, The Buttocks, Cid's, Henley Quits, Secret Storm, etc. Some are TRable by leading a non-wide of similar difficulty.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 10:06pm PT
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Donini-
Sigh, here goes another hundred clams! At least REI has a 20% off sale going right now. Number 6 Camalot, coming right up....
Melissa-
I've been to the Doggie wall--led the Deviations, Right Variation (thin flakes). Also, Chris Fredericks gave me a chimney climbing lesson on the 5.7 chimney back in 1965, along with Jan. Chris knew I couldn't climb chimneys worth a $hit, since we did a climb on Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon on 17 Jan 1965 that took us TWELVE HOURS! Two pitches, but it was A4 and some free. The free portion was a 5.8 chimney that I thrashed on... We were planning some climbs that never came off, but I did get better on chimneys after that. Copper Penny looks pretty good for me, since it's not too long. Thre was a good article on WideFetish about Keystone Corner and Copper Penny by Mungeclimber. Also I have Doggie Do on my "to do" check list now. Sigh...so many climbs and life is too short!
I'm now considering staying longer just to get more done!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 13, 2010 - 01:47am PT
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> Monster list ignores;
>
> The Owl .12c - Superb!
> Elephant's Eliminate 5.?? Tried it once, Cilley and I crashed and burned, as had Cos & Werner, anyone Else?
Yeah, those are definitely cool ones. I have them in this other category:
Roof
2552. Overdrive 5.11a *
1760. Free Clinic 5.11b
407. Cosa Nostra 5.11/5.12
2301. Grizzly Bear, Ninja, Cowboy 5.11c
2291. Miller Time(?) 5.11d
309. Separate Reality 5.12a ***
498. Owl Roof 5.12c
2680. Elephant's Eliminate 5.12d
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!