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leo Dickinson
Mountain climber
UK
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May 18, 2010 - 08:29am PT
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How very humbling that so many climbers remember us. Seems like only yesterday but its a lifetime.The Eiger played a big part in my life especially my second Eiger film with my long time adventurer Eric Jones making his solo ascent at the age of 46! Yes its not too late for you guys.
Cliff Phillips is still around but sadly not his original self although I'm not quite sure I ever knew. Talented - dedicated - and brilliant on both technical rock and hard alpine climbs and together with Eric they soloed a huge amount in both N Wales and the Alps. When Mick Burke reviewed Cliff's application to join the ACG (Alpine Climbing Group - an offshute of our Alpine Club) he remarked, "Bloody hell he's done more routes that the rest of the group put together."
I got in with 6 noted 'Grand Courses' such as the Phillip-Flamm on the Civetta, Brandler-Hasse on the Cima Grande (then done with aid! show off Germans!!!)the Bonatti Pillar (now fallen down from the Dru) but Cliff's list was 176 routes - truly impressive back then in the 60's. He soloed the N Face of the Piz Badille in 3.5 hrs. I suggest that without prior inspection that is still impressive.
But now what is happening to our most beautiful mountain on earth - Cerro Torre - (thanks whoever it was for sending me the Messner Trento Interview.) As always having Reinhold pontificate on a subject does get attention from the press but the story is best told by Rolo & Ermanno.
How have we got to this state where one country lord's the first ascent as the greatest thing since sliced bread and the rest of the world doesn't buy it.
When Ken Wilson, Pete Gillman (from the London Times) & myself for the BBC interviewed Maestri back in 1971 we met with a wall of obfuscation that has only got worse. Will the truth ever be told about Toni Egger and the first ascent?
and the latest saga - "These bolts on Cerro Torre need removing not adding to..." I guess this story will run and run
Leo Dickinson Devon UK May 2010
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Gordon Hibberd
Ice climber
Ayrshire Scotland
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Aug 19, 2010 - 06:36pm PT
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Just come across this site by mistake, and I have been out of the climbing scene for many many years actualy been solo sailing for the past years anyway I saw the Photos of Pete and one of the twins and thought I would comment. It was Cliff on the eiger who fell for the camera as I had just given him my Pterodaclye Ice axe when he fell and it saved his life. Jack Street and I were caught up in the filming at the time.I last saw pete when we did Point five on the Ben.Would very much like to know the year that was 1973 or 1974 Pete if you read this and I last saw the twins when we ran down the Eiger tunnel in 1973 and got away without paying.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 20, 2010 - 12:44am PT
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Thanks for weighing in Leo and Gordon! The times and climbs live on gentlemen! This site is evidence of it! So please check in and tell a tale or two!
I was delighted to find out that Pete was in on the FFA of the Chouinard-Herbert on Sentinel with John Long and Erik Eriksson back in 1976. I would love to hear what anyone recalls about that outing!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 20, 2010 - 01:28am PT
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How very humbling that so many climbers remember us
Hard to know what to say to that other than I am as proud today to have
met you as I was that day in 197_ in Seattle. You are a great photographer
and an icon in many peoples' minds.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Aug 20, 2010 - 11:07am PT
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I was delighted to find out that Pete was in on the FFA of the Chouinard-Herbert on Sentinel with John Long and Erik Eriksson back in 1976. I would love to hear what anyone recalls about that outing!
--
Actually, some history got that one wrong. The FFA of Chouinard-Herbert was with another talented Brit named Pete: Pete Livesy. I did the FFA of the Chouinard-Pratt (most of it) with Minks, or Minksey, as Pete was affectionately know to his close friends.
A great man! Great stories.
And I grew up with Leo Dickenson and Ken Wilson media. They made climbing Iconic for us, as though it were an important international event.
JL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 20, 2010 - 02:01pm PT
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Largo- So was Erik there with you and Pete?
Have you posted anything about the Chouinard- Pratt near FFA? I would love to read what you can recall about that adventure!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2010 - 02:30pm PT
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The wonderful thing about Peter is that no matter where he is he is likely up to no good- rage on Minsky!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Aug 20, 2010 - 04:45pm PT
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recently acquired the burgess book of lies and am developing marginalia on fibbage. willing to collaborate on an annotated edition.
i believe the first lie in the book involves being accepted immediately and heartily into an established oldfart yorkshire climbing club as snot-nosed 15-year-olds, slapped on the back, ales handed them freely. adolescent retrofantasy.
the second lie--a whole series, really--involves the details of john stanger's van driving in england and europe. that adrian and alan survived is obvious, but ...
we could do like the catholics do, print the lies in red. they call them rubrics. the word rube derives from that.
should i believe everything i read in this thread?
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Aug 20, 2010 - 07:59pm PT
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SG -
Putting out the "feelers" here in Tahoe.
Minksie is nearby.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 20, 2010 - 08:01pm PT
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How did you and Pete team up John? Good belaying potential?!?
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Aug 20, 2010 - 09:30pm PT
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Last time I saw him was in Tahoe City. Shizit! That was over 20 years ago!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 16, 2011 - 02:27pm PT
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Bump for Burgess brothers stories!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 24, 2011 - 11:35am PT
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Who stole the Minks...and where can we find him?!?
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steve shea
climber
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Jul 24, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
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Hey Leo thanks for the work on your Eiger solo film. I was almost out of money and would've had to return to Cham to hunt crystals to survive. The Pension des Alpes Alpiglen was more fun. How's Betsy Coed? All the best SS
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 24, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
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Great story Kevin! A frozen Largo butt scratch!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2011 - 12:42pm PT
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Where is he? Well....let's see, could be anywhere but he's sure to be hungover.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 24, 2011 - 01:56pm PT
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So many stories, so little time...
I thought that JL was on point...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 13, 2011 - 03:29pm PT
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Minksie Bump!
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