Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2010 - 05:20pm PT
|
Twisted Crank, here's a back door approach which might work.
type "drank wine and hit on my wife" into the Forum search.
That will lead to a thread titled (I think)"Donini's Back" with a post
by Prod. He has a link in his post to the widefetish forum.
Give it a try.
|
|
dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2010 - 05:37pm PT
|
Doug wrote;
I used to call myself an OW climber, but this is pretty humbling...
#
You are, you started me down that road. You would love the climbing out here! It’s like JT in the forest.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2011 - 10:18pm PT
|
oh ya! bump
|
|
marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2011 - 10:32pm PT
|
"She ain't got nothin' but, nothin' but one safety pin holdin' that thing on. Come on safety pin, POP. Come on baby, POP."
"Hey Lord, whatever I done, don't strike me blind for another couple of minutes. My Lucille!...That's Lucille, you mother-head. Anything so innocent and built like that just gotta be named Lucille."
Oh...yeah...this is about climbing. Bump for the Wide.
|
|
Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2011 - 10:36pm PT
|
So, what's up with the climber (Shanti?) doing this thing upside down? I suppose it isn't hard enough the conventional OW method? Anyways, it looks HARD! I may go out and look at it the next time I'm at the Voo, but I'll never get on that thang!!!
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2011 - 12:00am PT
|
That works for me, Jay.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2011 - 01:08am PT
|
It's a height thing, Frank, you need to be maybe 5.7? To do the toe- shoulderblade bridge. Other wise it's apparenty, invert time.
Shanti is sub gargantuan. Below is an action photo from Friday of her with small but mightyBethbRodden , for scale.
|
|
Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2011 - 07:25am PT
|
Thx. Jay for the explanation, very inspirational indeed. I really enjoyed your write-up of "Lucille". I always wondered what a 5.13 OW would be like, and since I'll never experience one, it's fun to hear about it from the FA-er!
Frank
|
|
Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 11:00am PT
|
Wait a minute...I thought I saw somewhere that "Lucille" was a 5.13, but when I clicked on the Hattlers Hatbox link, it only gives it a 5.12d rating...well, this changes everything!!! I'm going to have to add this my list of "Jaybro climbs I must do before I die" list. A few push-ups and isometrics and I'm going to fire this thing up Jaybro...
I just sent this climbing link to one of my old climbing buddies you used to love OW's at the Voo. He pulled me up a 5.10 OW one time and I was crying like a baby. He's gonna love reading about this one!
BTW Jaybro, it's in the making that we may move back West to either CO or WY this Spring if all goes as planned. If so, hopefully I can get out to the "Bugaloo" this summer and meet up with you. Not sure if I'll be in type of climbing shape by then, but one can dream...cheers.
Frank
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 11:12am PT
|
keep in touch about that, Frank.
Ratings are ratings, this was a topic of conversation this weekend. Though you gotta wonder if that .d rating is from a living climber who actually climbed it. I'd ask the last climber to up it and see what she thinks.
|
|
Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 11:34am PT
|
Jaybro-
My compliments on a stupendous climbing effort, but even more on your compelling and intimate writing! Woo Hoo!!
The 'woo is hot!!
|
|
Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 11:40am PT
|
Will do Jabybro, will do.
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 11:58am PT
|
Indiana? Not to be rude, but any particular reason? It always seems so far afield (and I'm from SoIll).
|
|
Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
|
Oh yes Healy...a very particular reason: My wife is finishing up her PhD in Comparative Literature. She took her orals last Nov., now she just has to write her dissertation, which in theory, she can do from anywhere she has access to a univ. Library. We've been here since 2006, and the time before that from 2000-2002 for her Master's.
I tried climbing here the first time we lived here on the 15-20ft. "road cuts" on the highway just south of town. It was, to say the least, a little dissapointing. Other than that, the nearest climbing is Red River Gorge...3 or 4 hours away. After living in Wyoming and being literally minutes away from excellent climbing, driving 3-4 hours every other weekend or so just seemed too excessive. So, I took up golfing to get me outdoors, had a little girl who is now 3 yrs. old. I'm looking forward to returning out West and getting her out camping, hiking and someday climbing.
On a sidenote, I've climbed twice in the last 4 years or so. Last summer on our trip back to Casper, Wy I dragged my climbing gear back with us, took my bro-in-law up on the mountain and did an "easy" 5.4 to 5.6-ish looking fingers to OW climb and nearly shat my pants on the crux. After staring at the crux move for it seemed like 15 mins, I had to get moving before I lost my nerve. I had two questionable .5 and .75 cams at my feet and no gear big enough to place above me in the last 10 ft of the climb. As I made the move, my right buttox cramped on the crux move (if there is such a thing on a 5.4 climb)...but adrenalin allowed me to ignore the pain and push through the move. That was the one and only climb of the trip! Anwyays, sorry for the novel. It's a slow day here at home on a cold day with the little one as she watches "Shrek" while I make lunch..
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 12:55pm PT
|
Well, that's a good reason (my daughter is doing the English/CompLit thing at UW/Seattle). Not sure where in IN you are (Bloomington?), but there's also SoIll spots like Jackson Falls and W.Ky spots like Pennyrile that are probably closer than the Red.
|
|
Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 01:02pm PT
|
Yep Bloomington, thx. for the info on SoIll, maybe we'll check it out on our way back this spring. Good luck to your daughter, you might mention IU to her, they have a great comp. lit. department for master's and PhD work.
Edit: And, B-town is a GREAT college town. Great food, music, excellent theatre and opera and music departments-world renowned for it's music school and opera.
|
|
pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
|
|
|
Jan 28, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
|
Bump for a bro and actual climbing talk.
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
|
Jan 28, 2011 - 05:50pm PT
|
wow, just found this thread. nice. looks like it started before i came to st.
probably be here long after im gone.
heh
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!