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Chief
climber
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Feb 27, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
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Nice to hear from you on this thread Dick!
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Feb 27, 2010 - 02:58pm PT
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Doug McCarty, just loafing around at Midnight Rock, 1972
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 27, 2010 - 03:04pm PT
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Dick, did ya learn your lesson? HaHaHaHa!
Nice, Don. I'd forgotten McCarty.
That reminds me of the time I went there midweek by myself about '71 I'm
guessing. I don't think I was quite so naive as to expect there to be
anybody there. There wasn't save for some old (60ish? HaHaHa) cowboy
living out of his '63 Bonneville convertible at Rat Creek. He was straight
out of a Zane Grey/Steinbeck cross-novel. He nipped at the bottle a bit
but he didn't seem to be a drunk. He just loved his freedom and
the great outdoors. He didn't seem to be hurting for cash either.
I must say it was one of the most interesting nights around a campfire
I've ever had. The one thing that stands out the most was his talking
about making friends with the animals; all of 'em. He swore that if you
took your clothes off they lost all fear of you as you were then one of
them. He didn't demonstrate, he just suggested I try it sometime.
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Feb 27, 2010 - 04:20pm PT
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A very young Bruce Albert at Eightmile Rock, 1971
Bruce lives in Index. I think he is even mayor of the town...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 27, 2010 - 04:34pm PT
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How in the hell did a Leavenworth climber end up in Monrovia, Ca.? Index I can understand.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 27, 2010 - 06:15pm PT
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How in the hell did a Leavenworth climber end up in Monrovia, Ca.?
Jim, the Witness Protection people gave me a choice of the two Monrovias
so the Californicate one looked real gud! There is climbing here, you know?
Sadly, this is all I have regarding Marc Weigelt. I didn't own a lens
capable of capturing his largeness. I hope this still graces its spot
in the Enchantments.
He was a monster, in a good sense. Strong? Ya think? It was related to me by a witness that they had a flat on I-5. After putting the spare on
Marc brushed the lug wrench aside, "We don't need that thing!" He then proceeded to tighten the nuts by hand. They made it a surprisingly long way before the inevitable occurred.
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Feb 27, 2010 - 08:06pm PT
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Mr Reilly Sir,
Where and when did you see that wooden plaque? Are you sure that it was for Weigelt? I always thought that he spelled his name Mark.
That plaque looks like something that Marc Emerson's dad would have made for Marc after he was killed on Castle Rock in 1970.
Peshastin Pinnicles, 1972
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 27, 2010 - 08:21pm PT
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Mastadon: Mari (my wife) is headed out climbing with Julie Brugger at some ridiculous hour tomorrow morning. I showed her your picture, with the caption covered up, and she said. "Huh? Why is Julie wearing those old-fashioned clothes?"
When I said it was because the picture was taken 35 years ago, she could hardly believe it. Julie hasn't changed a lot.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 27, 2010 - 08:49pm PT
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Masta,
If you're going to insist on rubbing my face into my senility
we can take this out into the parking lot. I always thought it
was with a 'k' too which is why I was cornfused when I came
across this slide. I think it was just above the lake a little
west of Prusik Pk but we already know better than to trust my
memory. Oh well, it is a fitting tribute to all of 'em.
contritely yours
ps
Did you keep a journal or is your memory that good?
Maybe I spent too much time around Crawdaddy and his ilk.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 27, 2010 - 09:04pm PT
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Don,
Thanks for sharing your cool photos.
Especially that last one on Orchard Rock -
that climb was one of my favorites.
It's been far too long since I've done that thing.
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Feb 27, 2010 - 09:54pm PT
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Mr Cummins Sir,
It's been a long time since I've been on that, also-38 years.......
"cool photos"..... plenty more where that came from!
Steve Ansell on our way up to do the Stanley/Burgner route on the south face of Prussik in the mid 70's.
Steve bouldering in the Enchantments on the same trip
Steve was one of the most talented and intense climbers of our Seattle group but he had to make a choice of continuing climbing or continuing his career as a concert violist. He chose wisely and became a professor at the University of Houston when he was 18 and continued on to teach at Juliard shortly thereafter. He now resides in Mass. and is a member of the Boston symphony. We both thought that the south face of Prussik was exceptionally hard for 5.9 (I had just spent the previous three months free climbing in The Trench and was sketched on one of the Prussik pitches) (go figure).
I'm going to call Marc Emerson's mother (who I still keep in touch with) tomorrow and ask her about the plaque. I don't know if she's ever seen it. Dick, Marc's dad, died in the late 80's. What year did you take that picture??
---
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Chief
climber
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Feb 27, 2010 - 10:17pm PT
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How's about more pictures of Julie.
Seems deserving of goddess or significant deity status.
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BEA
climber
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Feb 27, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
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I think I can help a bit on the "Marc" plaque. According to Pat Emerson Dick carved a wooden memorial plaque for his son Marc and the summer following Marc's death Dick and Pat went into the Enchantments. Dick then went off one day with the plaque & put it up somewhere. Pat didn't say where and I sort of doubt that she knew.
Informed conjecture suggests to me that the one in the photo above is the same one.
Part of me would like to stumble upon that; all of me doesn't want to be told exactly where it lies. Bet it's turned really pretty by now.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 27, 2010 - 11:33pm PT
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Perry - Tell yer wife to say HI from ME to Julie
I expect that one day I'll be old and senile like you, and unable to keep threads and posters straight in my mind.
But until then, I'll ask my wife to say hi to Julie for you. And Perry can tell his wife (if he is married), that his old pal Tami asked her to pass on greetings to someone she didn't know.
Which is kind of a long-winded way of saying... "Yer a dumbot."
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Younkin
Mountain climber
Utah
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Feb 27, 2010 - 11:36pm PT
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I grew up in Wenatchee and took a climbing class from Bill Asplund, we climber our first routes in Peshastin Pinnacles. I climbed trigger finger many times and even did it in the dark by feel only once. Some of the people I climbed with were Laurie Fink, Bob Plumb, Larry Weis, Bill Lingley, Julie Brugger, Mark Weigelt (I spoke at his funeral, he was a great loss), Jay Ossieander and many others. I loved climbing Classic Crack, I have a memory of climbing Outer Space on Snow Creek Wall with Mark, I almost hit the ledge after a fall because Mark was sorting the rope out. I did a Winter Climb of Mount Stuart with Mark and Jay which included a memorable snow avalanche off Stuart Glacier. Mount Stuart is my favorite Mountain, I loved doing Sherpa Glacier (summer and winter) and the North Ridge. I hiked into Mountaineer Creek Basin more times than I want to remember. Some of my favorite bivouacs were in that area.
I remember giving Bill Lingley tension on White Bird? overhang on Castle Rock so he could BA those below on the ledge. I wish I still weighed 160, LOL Jim Younkin
younkin@gmail.com
CNG Blog www.younkincng.com
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Chief
climber
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Feb 27, 2010 - 11:40pm PT
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Ghost, thanks man, Tami had me struggling there.
If someone does get a chance, say hi to Julie for me.
Tami, Nadine says hi, ya nutbar!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 27, 2010 - 11:43pm PT
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Ghost, thanks man, Tami had me struggling there.
Perry, I've struggled with Tami for over thirty years now. It don't ever get easier, but I'm sort of used to it.
David
Edit: Okay, I'll ask her to pass on greetings from you, too.
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Feb 28, 2010 - 12:27am PT
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BEA-how do you know all that??
Edit: Never mind. I think I just figured it out. It might be about time YOU posted some L-worth pictures......
--
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Feb 28, 2010 - 12:45am PT
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After a bar night in Leavenworth ----for more comic relief, here is a photo of me working across an iced up log on Mountaineer Creek, while suffering up to a winter ascent of N.E. Face Colchuck around 1981.
Another El Nino winter. Early Jan snow was never deeper than 18” on the approach.
High on Colchuck: looking back down to Colchuck Lake & Mountaineer Creek, then north towards Icicle Cr.
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Max
Social climber
outer space
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Feb 28, 2010 - 01:31am PT
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Very cool to see this thread, every once in a while (pretty frequently I guess) supertaco provides.
I've been living in L-town (and Peshastin, recently relocated to Leavenworth proper) for the past 5 years. After running out of cash in Squamish I connected with Yosemite friends in Seattle and they introduced me to little Bavaria. No place is perfect but Leavenworth does a pretty good job of satisfying my needs.
Last week I met Bill Prater who was part of the first ascent of Sherpa Peak (summit to Stuart's left with balanced rock), he lives in Cle Elum and at 83 still rambles up the hills around there. Fred Stanley also lives in Ellensburg, he was on the first ascent of the infamous Gendarme of Stuart's upper North Ridge. I'm so inspired by these pioneers and grateful that they're still around.
I work at Gustavs (just for money) and from what I hear it used to be a lot cooler and more climber friendly. There are some old climbing prints tucked away upstairs and I heard a rumor that climbers got free food/beer for providing these decorations. True/False?
Anyway, keep the bitd photos and stories coming. If an old-dad reunion becomes a reality this spring I'd love to meet some of you guys (and gals), maybe even go climbing!
-Max Hasson
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