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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Brock: Re your slide. Not bad at all to me, and better than 80% of the slides posted here. It has historical value that boosts it up to the "must see" group.
If you are not using one of the cheap versions of Photoshop---go find one and spend a little time learning it, if you want "near perfection!"
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Dec 11, 2010 - 11:40am PT
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Bump from a snowy day in December
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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May 22, 2011 - 11:08am PT
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Whoa! Look at the size of the gargoyles!
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Aya K
Trad climber
New York
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May 22, 2011 - 11:41am PT
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Has anyone on this thread actually summitted Robson??
No but my boyfriend did, via the Wishbone arete. Not that that really helps this thread much. But I just wanted to mention it because I think there was a feature in one of the climbing mags recently about some folks who did it via the Wishbone, and there was a quote from a ranger saying that it hadn't been done via that route in decades, which was just incorrect. Something like that anyway.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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May 22, 2011 - 11:52am PT
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Burly!
Nice BITD stuff, Ed.
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steve shea
climber
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May 22, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
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We failed. After getting to the top of the dog face or whatever it is we bivied for a go at the NF the next day. We were treated to the finest display of northern lights imaginable and stayed up all night to watch. With about ten minutes sleep and a stove that crapped out we were not in the best shape to climb. Add to that one of the driest years in history which made every crevasse huge. We stumbled around the ice fall for hrs and could not find a way through. We were so close, right under the NF but those last few meters to the base would have involved rapping down one wall of a crevasse and climbing out the other over and over again. So back to Jasper for Kokanee and a reset. That was with Tom Sciolino. BTW 3rd classing the Dog Face with a full alpine pack was enough to make you soil your britches.
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Sam R
climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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May 23, 2011 - 02:25pm PT
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We climbed the SSW Ridge in 1978. I remember not being able to sleep at all the first night at the Forester hut due to avalanches sweeping by every few minutes. Luckily the temperature dropped the next day and everything held together for us on our climb. I loved the climb, but I've never been so glad to get off a mountain!
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Alois
Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
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May 23, 2011 - 02:30pm PT
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Miguel Carmona and I were on our way back from failing on the North Face in 1986 (?). Somewhere by Kinney Lake we met two guys going up. We chatted for a while, they told us they were from somewhere east like Carolinas or something like that, were going up Wishbone Arete and asked about conditions on the mountain. Miguel and I were totally beat by the weather and what we thought were severe avalanche conditions on the face, we told them about our epic. The one guy who asked was very friendly fellow, told me that he worked at a soup kitchen shelter and climbed in his spare time. After some time chatting we went down and they went up. I got back to work and a few days later a co-worker carrying a "People" magazine said, weren't you just up there? I read this huge article about the grandson of THE Vanderbilt family being lost on the Wishbone Arete. The photos in the article were of the two men we talked to. Apparently a huge aerial and ground search by the family (several hundred people) was conducted but the guys were never found. I often remember the two of them and what could possibly have happened up there.
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Brock Wagstaff
Trad climber
Larkspur
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May 23, 2011 - 03:04pm PT
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Went up to climb the NF with Chris Jones in 1979. Very stormy so we continued up to the Cain Face and sat in our tent until we ran out of food. On the way back down the weather improved so we went to town, bought more food, and climbed the SSW Ridge. Ran into someone on the trail that Chris vaguely remembered and he joined us. Have no memory of what his name was now. That route seemed much more dangerous than either of the other two.
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dit
Mountain climber
eastside
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May 23, 2011 - 04:17pm PT
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Well, it was September '79 when Andy Selters and I showed up at the base of Mt Robson. We we're college kids on the drive back from a summer working in AK.
We were there to climb the North Face, and viewing it from Berg Lake the thing looked HUGE!.
Somehow we managed to pull it off; bivying in the bergshrund at the base of the shield. Next day we summited but got disoriented in a grayout searching for the Cain face descent. Spent a second night up on the summit ridge (two nights in a single sleeping bag).... exciting!
I'm on the road and only have one image scanned on the harddrive of Andy high on the North Face.
I know he wrote a short story about this for Climbing once upon a time.
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Dolomite
climber
Anchorage
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May 23, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
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I hate to clutter this terrific thread with a mere bump, but I somehow missed this earlier. Great stories and photos. Saw the lower reaches of this peak from the road last summer, summit enshrouded in cloud. It's amazing how seldom it's climbed (based on these posts). Thanks for posting everyone.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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May 23, 2011 - 11:51pm PT
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Awesome thread. I will read it all soon as I had not seen this either. The pictures by misha are amazing if you have not looked at them. I think some are posted later in the thread, but the he has something like 70 pics on the link that is a virtual tour from start to finish. Nice job.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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May 24, 2012 - 01:22am PT
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Oct 31, 2012 - 01:31am PT
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Excellent video of Janelle and Mark Smiley and Reiner Thoni on the Wishbone Arete. Very crappy rock, but an impressive climb!
http://vimeo.com/52307295
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Oct 31, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
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LilaBiene and Mike Sherrick in Oakdale last weekend.
Mike, along with Claunch and Firestone made the first ascent of the Wishbone Arete on Robson in 1955 and the along with Robbins and Gallwas the first ascent of the NW Face on Half Dome in 1957.
Classic!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 31, 2012 - 01:36pm PT
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A rather appropriate bump, Guido. I talked to Mike Sherrick at the Fest about Robson and that Claunch is a friend of mine in Seattle. He was stoked that I had some contact info and I envision a cool reunion.
Nick Clinch and Sherrick both told me about some proposed ascents by Clinch and Claunch. Funny stuff.
It was great to meet you, Guido.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 31, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
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Big-Choss-Heap-I-Never-Got-Around-To (and sorely regret it) bump.
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