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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Dec 30, 2009 - 06:52pm PT
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Yeah, Clint's link (1st page) has some cool pics. That pic of the Frenchy 'bike-peddlin' on his way down is chilling.
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mbb
climber
the slick
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Dec 30, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
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Bateman and Bell did it in the summer of 88, they were both 17. I was in Toulumne at the time with my friend Eric Wright. Bateman took a 60 footer on the first pitch, rested a minute, then fired it. I believe Bell led the next couple of pitches onsight.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 30, 2009 - 10:39pm PT
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damn mike. i knew lance was a smokin' hot boulderer, but never knew he had sends THAT proud under his belt.
i'da been scared to top-rope the sucker.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2009 - 01:12am PT
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wow, this thread is really getting good. there are some discrepancies that are hard to explain. for example, brian biega says he did the b and y with burk in 97 or 98, for burk's 7th ascent. i talked face to face with burk last night and he says he did the b and y 5 times from 90 to 94, not 7 times.
or
mbb says lance bateman took a sixty footer on the 1st pitch, shook it off, and then sent the pitch, and dave bell led the upper two. well, lance took a big fall, probably closer to fifty than 60, and took it on the second pitch, NOT THE FIRST as mbb says. i know because i was there and watched it all. if you took a 60 footer on the first pitch, i seriously doubt that you would be shaking it off because that pitch slabs out below. but dave and lance were psyched, only had one rope, and it was impressive because dave received a huge ropeburn on his neck when lance fell past him. i THINK dave led the first and third. i KNOW lance led the second. dave probably still has a proud scar from it.
and although these seem like minor discrepancies, its gets really interesting when you get to talking about who did the fourth ascent. in the last week i have talked with kurt smith and ed barry who everyone agrees did the third. i've talked with scott cosgrove, mike waugh, daryl nakahira, christian griffith, elliot robinson, all who did early ascents, and there is not a consensus between them. i really wish bachar were still here to shed his light on the subject. i'm really not sure what to do at this point, and am almost sorry i started this thread...but not quite.
i'm just a natural blonde trying to figure out history. shipoopoi
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 31, 2009 - 10:17am PT
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After thinking about it last night it was somewhere between 93 and 95. I cracked my skull in 96 so I will have to look back for the dates...
My friend John Scott from Truckee climbed the route with his wife on his honeymoon sometime in 89? and this summer or last (20 years later) they climbed it again.
Some other friends Josh Horniack, Pete Chase (Super Pete), Hans Standteiner and a number of other Tahoe locals have climbed the route with their friends. I think Josh and Pete have climbed the route a couple of times each. My guess would be that the route gets more than one or two ascents a year. In addition, there are most likely plenty of ascents (like Todds, the 17 year olds, John's, etc...) that are never noted.
One thing is for sure, the B&Y is an Amazing climb and I look forward to climbing it again...
Brian
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Dec 31, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
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Hey BVB...I myself thought that Alan Nelson had done it...But could be wrong...
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 08:39pm PT
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yeah watusi, alan nelson did it, but he took several tries to do so. i remember seeing a screamer he had engaged on a big fall that ended that attempt. shipoopoi
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Well, one thing is for certain, I HAVE NOT DONE IT!
although, if anyone want's a badass belayer, I'm your man.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 11:21pm PT
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come on mark, man up and lead it all, just say you are going to do it and dig the hole for yourself. after all you are "state of the art and the art of the states." LOL, shipoopoi
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KP
Trad climber
Fayetteville, WV
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This is a fuzzy memory but an old friend of mine, Phil Heller, who put up a bunch of hard, scary routes at the New River Gorge told me he did the Bachar/Yerian in the mid to late 80's. Has anyone heard from him? Have not seen him in decades now....
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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. . . there is not a consensus . . .. i really wish bachar were still here to shed his light on the subject. i'm really not sure what to do at this point, and am almost sorry i started this thread...but not quite.
i'm just a natural blonde trying to figure out history.
welcome to my world.
except for the natural blond part.
most people believe that the best way to learn about history is to talk to someone who was there. but then you learn that human memories are one of the most difficult things to make into historical evidence.
good luck with this one.
entertaining reading regardless.
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Mark Vallance
Trad climber
England
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On 25th August 1994 I hiked up to Medlicott with Tom Briggs, (aged 17) and Eve Prickett, (aged 16). Tom was all fired up for the Bachar Yerian, which at that time only got about one ascent per year, so we were surprised to find two other British climbers about to start the route. By the time they had completed the climb it was too hot for Tom to start.
Next day Tom and Eve climbed the route in excellent style. I thought at the time, that they were probably the youngest climbers to do so. That evening a case of beer arrived at our camp site from Peter Croft - a nice gesture from a great climber.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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I spoke with Mike W. yesterday about this topic..... He is almost ready to join the Taco......
I think the history is really important, and the Taco is the best place to get this all written down. I have never done the B&Y (I'm a good belayer, anybody need one?)but someday????
Mike's big question is this.
Who,on this list, carried the gear needed to do the last two pitches???
I guess John proclaimed, in the TM store, that if you rap off of the top of the third pitch, you haven't done the route.
Mike also says "it's pretty foolish to get on and spry about when, when how, etc.... if you climbed that, you have done something really special and that should be good enuf" ....
Maybe we can get him to "come up to the surface and bite" .... maybe a troll topic of.... The Hardest climb in TM??
Mike???
gk
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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Waugh ...
finally Mike Waugh gets a glimmer of the recognition he deserves...
5 laps here, perhaps all without a fall?
Mike is the strongest climber I have ever seen.
More horsepower to weight ratio than Wolfgang Gullich, Tony Yaniro, Finuco,
Randy Leavitt, Ron Carson, Brett Maurer...
Mike used to rate a route 5.9 because he thought that was how hard it was, not because he was trying to sandbag... even if it ended up rated 11c
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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I did the 112th send in 93'! BITCHES!!!
Caylor
BWA HA hahaaa!! I've enjoyed this thread, but as usual, Hank steps in with that sense of humor and kills it!
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saa
climber
not much of a
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Just a completely random idea...
How about a climbing fest July 6 2010 in memoriam. That line would attract a
bunch of great climbers and a fundraiser might be workable. An audience might be big enough to have an impact. Or film it.
If one of you takes the lead, I offer to help organize.
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David Bell
climber
SLC Area
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Jan 18, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
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Unless the route went undone in '88 Lance and I probably don't make the short list. I'm pretty sure we did in in '89 (Lance says either '89 or '90, for sure before the 1/4 inchers were replaced). I lead P1 & P3 (still break into a full body sweat remembering the move prior clipping the 3rd bolt on P3). Lance took a huge fall on P2 triing to down-climb out of trouble. Can't say for sure how far he fell but for those of you who know the route better than me Lance was above the 1st bolt and he hesitated too long climbing through a cruxy bit & took the ride. I realized that he was falling right into me, I was tied in short to the belay so I had no where to go so I just cowered into the wall. Lance missed me by an inch and when the rope came tight it caught me in the neck throwing me to the right (though faded the scar is still there 20 years later). Lance stopped below the flake section of P1, came back up and did the pitch....
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jan 18, 2010 - 04:05pm PT
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Brother Cozzy - The last 5.8 pitch was done on the first ascent.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2010 - 04:25am PT
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the fourth ascent is just a mystery to me. i was pretty positive it was mike waugh and daryl nakahira, until a conversation with coz and he was so sure that griffith did the 4th, followed by coz, then moffat. coz said waugh did it after him, but maybe he did it before and after since waugh did it five times. rob oravetz did it in 85, leading every pitch with coz following, and rob says he did it just a few weeks after coz did it with elliot robinson. elliot says that was 85. waugh, and nakahira, in phone conversations with me did it it 84, just a bit after kurt and eddy did it, which is exactly the way i remembedr it. coz didn't write the dates down.
i should get back to tim wagner, griffith's partner, i think he said they did it in 84. i heard moffat did it in 85. maybe moffat could shed some light on this, i got to get o hold of him, moffat did it with bachar, so maybe he remembers the timeline. i am so confused by this.
how about a round table discussion of the timeline during the woodsen shindig coming up in march 19-21. coz, waugh, myself, we got up therwe and try and figure it all out. just an idea. coz, i know you know your timeline is fact, but how do you account for the fact that elliot says it was 85? shipoopoi
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