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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Hunter Sibbald and I repeated Quarter Pounder (III 5.11b)on West Quarter Dome last fall. It seems to me, having also done the approach from below, that coming in from the Clouds Rest - Half Dome trail and skirting the wall to the base is the way to go. Plus there's a small spring just before you leave the trail that was running.
Incidentally we thought it would be a good link-up to do the North Ridge of Half Dome the following day. We stared from the base, but were turned back by dirt and grass filled cracks on the second pitch. I think it's best to do only the upper part of this route!
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Chief
climber
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Bump for an EXEMPLARY CONTRIBUTION!
Nice work!
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Powerful TR. BUMP!!!! Great shots.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Good thread to bump this time of year.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Neat-O!
I don't remember seeing this before. Love and good thoughts for you, Nanook. Exciting times!
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Wow, I missed this before too. Outstanding!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Bump, so maybe I won't forget to download that topo when I get home. I wasn't able to do the route last year (see post No. 2 on this thread).
John
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Gene
climber
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Get on it, John! Woot!!!!!
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2011 - 05:06pm PT
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Thanks!
Of course this route is not in season for another month or two. My buddy skied to the top of Badger Pass yesterday and said there was 8' of snow by the marker at the top of the list, so we still got some melting to do before these shady-side walls are happening. Watkins is full Sun and melts out early though.
cheers
e
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bubble boy
Big Wall climber
topanga, CA
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Thanks Erik!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Great TR That place looks so cool. It looks a lot farther back than the 4 hours the author mentions.
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA (currently in Lutry, CH)
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I have very fond memories of that route.
Especially the way it just got better and cleaner as you got higher.
I remember we bivied at the mid-way ledge.
The next morning I remember how hard it was to start free-climbing
right out of the bivy with no coffee...
On the All-time Finger Crack I placed a 0 RP, the only time I ever
used that size. It was bomber.
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SierraGoat
Trad climber
Quincy, Ca
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Jun 27, 2011 - 06:11pm PT
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clint, nanook and others,
any thoughts on the approach right now? We were thinking of staying on the south side of the river the whole way due to the high water. Is this possible?
Clint what were you saying about the other optional descent between west quarter and half???
Recent photo...
Cheers
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 28, 2011 - 12:31am PT
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Good eyes, klaus!
SierraGoat,
> any thoughts on the approach right now?
> We were thinking of staying on the south side of the river the whole way due to the high water.
> Is this possible?
I don't know. It looks like a lot of trees and probably brush in Mr. Sloan's photos. Plus you would have to go through the rockfall zone under Ahwiyah Point.
> Clint what were you saying about the other optional descent between west quarter and half???
Yes, it is down the gully along the base of West Quarter Dome and East Quarter Dome (when dry). I haven't been down that way myself, but Simon (post after mine), Urmas, and Al "Dude" have been in it (the latter 2 just for the section to Quarter Pounder, though).
There are some better photos on the other thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=517220&tn=20
> Recent photo...
Too much snow in that gully as of last week, I'd say....
I think the earliest approach would be down that gully, once the snow is melted and it has dried out.
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SierraGoat
Trad climber
Quincy, Ca
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Jun 28, 2011 - 04:59pm PT
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thanks clint, i'll give aldude a call and see what he thinks... I was hoping july 9th. Any reason to bring the bolt kit or did you clean things up pretty nicely on your last recon trip?
Cheers
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 28, 2011 - 11:39pm PT
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I replaced 2 anchor bolts and the 2 old pro bolts on the 5.11d pitch, so no bolt kit should be needed.
Mr. Sloan also said he went back there and replaced (placed?) bolts also.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Making plans to give this a go next week. Anyone know how much snow is on the approach down the gully approach to the west? Figuring that the river crossing is impossible.
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climbingbuzz
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Jul 27, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
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Mr. T,
How did QD go? Was the gully dry enough to approach via HD?
Thanks.
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Mike Dahlquist
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Oct 25, 2011 - 11:37am PT
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Luke Taylor and I climbed this route over the weekend. A couple of observations:
We brought a hammer, but it was totally unnecessary and we did not use it at all. This route goes clean. All of the fixed pins looked like they had been there prior to Nanook's ascent.
Nanook, how many times did you have to nail? Did you leave any fixed pins? Unless we used some pins you fixed, I can't imagine you needing a hammer on this route. The rack on the topo should say "no pins, no hooks, two regular sized camhooks" in addition to the cams/nuts that are listed. Even if a fixed pin blew, it should be easy enough to get around one of them. The thin bits just took some micronuts, a couple small cams, camhooks, and reasonable sized balls.
Also, what is up with the bolt on the slab 40 feet from the top? It is not shown on Bill Wright's older version of the topo, and I doubt Chouinard and Frost placed a bolt here on the FA. Does anyone know the history of this bolt? Is it a chicken bolt? I thought there was plenty of natural pro (including a fixed pin just below the only "hard" (easy 5th) bit of slab climbing.
The route is awesome, and the approach certainly keeps the rif-raff out (I like it better that way). My camera broke halfway up but I've got some pics I might post later.
Bottom line: Don't nail on this route.
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