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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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This thread will get 300 posts if it's bumped 300 times. Climbing on the Taco Stand is an encapsulated world where the sun rises and sets on Yosemite Valley.
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Mimi
climber
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Jim, this is why you must continue to keep it real around here.
Paul, I received a letter from Walt after he returned from your climb. I had just left Yosemite and wished I could be there to hear him talk about the trip in person. You guys got a bellyfull! LOL!
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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This thread needs legs...and some photos. The first is mine, from January of this year:
The next one is from Vertical, Argentina´s answer to Alpinist. If you look carefully I´m pretty sure you can see the famed compressor!
(photo by Claudio Suter)
I know Mark Synott has posted here at least once before. He and Kevin Thaw climbed this a few years back as did Donini and Greg Couch, if I´m not mistaken. And of course Walt, but he´s not around to share the tale.
More stories, please!
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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One last photo (also from Vertical.) This one is of the ¨Great Traverse¨ though I´m not certain that that pitch is on the Compressor Route. (Someone with real experience please chime in!) The party--Santiago Scavolini and Luis Molina--were moving fast and, from what I could gather from the article (it´s in Spanish and I´m still learning)were looking for a big banana shaped feature but never found it.
(photo by Santiago Scavolini)
Note the bolts. Any idea what kind they are?
Also note the feature down and left. If I´m not mistaken that´s the feature that Sean Leary, Renan Ozturk, and Cedar Wright climbed a few seasons back, making a remarkable film, ¨Patagonia Promise¨, in the process. I caugt it at the Banff-fest in Puerto Natales and a link to a clip is below:
http://natgeoadventure.tv/Post.aspx?Id=24671
I think the film could have just as easily been named, ¨Choose Life¨, and for good reason.
More context. Please.
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bmacd
climber
Relic Hominid
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bumpa
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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could any patagonia vets recommend a travel book that would nicely outline the logistics (airports, buses, permits and fees) for traveling to Chalten and onward to the climbing camps? my public library has a Moon guidebook, but it's missing key info
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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i overheard the Bird talkin aboud swinging back and forth on a rap to break loose all the deadly javelin like stalagmites hanging from the cliff, i bet he was talkin about the Cerro Torre.
who bought that book written in Italian at he Bridwellfest?
it was the false account written by what's his name.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2010 - 01:51pm PT
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This is the Casimiro Ferrari account of the first ascent of Cerro Torre by the Lecco Spiders from Mountain 38 September 1974.
Leo Dickinson cover photo of the East Face.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 12, 2010 - 02:05pm PT
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Without question (well, I'm sure some would question) the first ascent of Cerro Torre. Interestingly, this route remains the most legitimate of the two usual ways to the summit.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2010 - 10:44am PT
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Bona fide bump!
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colin henderson
climber
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Jun 27, 2010 - 05:27pm PT
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FAO Marv -
I wrote a guidebook a few years back on Los Glaciares National Park. It *should* have all the information you're looking for regards logistics - it includes climber's camps and routes to main climbs.
(Credit due to Rolando Garibotti, for lots of history beta, and Gregory Crouch for his superb book 'Enduring Patagonia', which started my fascination with Patagonia and the Chalten peaks (Greg, if you're reading this, I'm currently on what could possibly be my 8th read!).
Guidebook info and pictures is here - including a climbing history of Fitzroy, Torre, Egger, Standhardt, etc.;
http://www.colinhenderson.co.uk/
Also a (trekking) article with photos here;
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=756
Happy to answer any travel Qs if I can.
Hope this helps,
Colin
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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Oct 30, 2010 - 04:54pm PT
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fukking awesome
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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Dec 24, 2010 - 01:50am PT
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what-the-hell?-this-is-the-best-of-the-best bump
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2012 - 03:58pm PT
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B & B Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
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Cerro bump...
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Mar 10, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
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The article says that at the top, the ice mushroom was only 6 ft of overhanging snow, and the last part of climb was no big deal. Now it looks like a really big deal.
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adikted
Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
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Mar 10, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
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Such an amazing peak....... To witness it in person is incredible..
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Mar 10, 2013 - 11:29pm PT
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kind of confused here -- was the first alpine ascent of CT in 1974 or 1980? if not 1974, why not? fixed ropes?
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Mar 11, 2013 - 12:17am PT
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First ascent of Cerro Torre was the Lecco Spiders via the west face led by Ferrari in 1974. And yes, fixed ropes, done expedition style.
First alpine style ascent of Cerro Torre was John Bragg, Jay Wilson and Dave Carman, also via the west face, in 1977. Bragg has a great story about holing up in a natural ice cave below the helmet, listening to the howl of the Patagonian organs.
(if I'm remembering the years correctly (without checking))
Bragg, Wilson, Carman was also the second ascent of the mountain.
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