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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 15, 2014 - 03:30pm PT
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Good historic images are pure gold when you are trying to convey an experience.
I would be curious what you come across. Get Mark to post about soloing the Magic Mushroom WBITD along with many other fine adventures in big air!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 15, 2014 - 05:32pm PT
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Mark might have been more concerned with catching big fish than taking pictures. LOL
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Bachar once wrote about the Turning Point:
"Turning Point.... yeah.
That thing is insane. ..."
From some accounts, it's a bit like stacked pitches of the BY
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 24, 2014 - 08:17pm PT
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Style bump
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 25, 2014 - 08:47am PT
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Pablo- The BY is in a different league of commitment being much steeper and having much more difficult moves way out from protection. The runout sections on the bottom of the Turning Point are on 5.10/5.11 climbing and not nearly as badass even if Bachar was impressed by my efforts when those pitches were going up.
I really need to get those pitches rebolted so that the kids can have some fun up there.
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BrandonAdams
Big Wall climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Nov 25, 2014 - 02:11pm PT
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Hey Steve,
I've been interested in your routes (central scrutinizer, jolly roger, turning point, etc) and appreciate your emphatic support of clean climbing. I would appreciate, as I know others would as well, the opportunity to experience turning point. I know you have expressed the desire to retrofit the route personally. Please contact me if you need any help or support to do so.
Brandon
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Dec 17, 2015 - 09:39am PT
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Bump, due to some "interesting" posting by the Wootboy Sloan on MtnProj.
Sloan wrote:
Now don't tell Steve Grossman about this one, definitely don't tell Stevey about this:
The new free route being put up on El Cap this year, 39 pitch 5.13d, climbs right up Steve's 'supposed' route that he wanted to call Turning Point. The route has shiny bolts every 10 feet now. I say 'supposed' route because Steve refused to release a topo to his route Turning Point, so it doesn't really exist. A couple proud American climbers crushed that sh#t. I think they're gonna call it the Platinum Wall.
Did these latest free El Cap bigwall climbers contact Steve Grossman and Charles Cole(founder of 5.10) before they set off up there route, asking permission to add bolts where they needed them? Did they come on this or other online forums and ask permission from the general climbing public to do so?
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-erik-sloan-ethics-thread/111301228__8#a_111430085
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 17, 2015 - 11:10am PT
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So many things wrong with that post. 39 pitches and no names...hmmmm.
Erik Sloan really seems to be spinning in the drain if he is trying to stir up sh#t this way. I am certainly easy enough to find if there is any truth to this BS. Naked modernist delusion is more likely as Sloan continues to lose it.
Pretty soon Nanook will cease to exist here.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Dec 17, 2015 - 11:30am PT
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To add more speculation to the fire, Kevin Jorgeson supposedly has some new project on the cap and was looking to take Sasha Digiulian up it. Modern bolted .13+ slab wouldn't be a stretch for that crew.
Red bull and Addidas marketing push vs disorganized and fractured opposition. I wonder how this will turn out.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 17, 2015 - 11:37am PT
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Until the Turning Point hits the Grey Bands it is a good prospect for a gnarly slabfest but nowhere near 13d. Hopefully they would want to find out a bit about what goes where before heading up. The Turning Point is pretty easy to spot in the right light.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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This all turned out to be a bunch of Sloan BS.
When I was establishing these lower pitches with John Steiger as my partner, I crossed a small overhang at my high point and placed a 3/8" bolt on desperate smears before taking several long falls attempting to keep free climbing as the angle increased just slightly pushing the climbing into 5.12. Above me was several hundred feet of beautiful clean slab approaching the Grey Bands. The incipient cracks that I needed to reach were about a long rope length away up and left, but rather than step into slings and start aiding I gave a nod to the future and left the canvas clean.
I unclipped from my hard won bolt and climbed down before traversing left to reach the last of the original Salathé Wall bolts eventually swinging right out of the Half Dollar to get the job done once I got back on the route alone to finish it.
This notion that me or any of the climbers of my generation have some beef with progress and the inevitably stronger climbers that would follow soon enough is just more self-serving nonsense from idiots like Mr. Sloan.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 12, 2016 - 09:31am PT
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Idiot, just as I said.
Produce a topo of this supposed route if it is "real" there Laughing Boy.
Let's see it. Ten foot bolt spacing and all.
You will never see a topo of any route that I have done because I categorically don't support you or your geek guidebook. Clear enough?
The Turning Point is far more real than you are.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jan 12, 2016 - 09:49am PT
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Wait, this is what makes it a route : " for others to climb and enjoy" ???
You lost me there E.
Steve climbed up a specific way. This fact is not in dispute, last I checked. He wrote a magazine article about it, eventually. But because no topo has been released to the world at large, there is no route? I don't buy it.
Now whether he gets to cry about this route getting retrobolted because no one else really knew where it went- that's another question. (It sounds like he isn't) But no topo= no route? No way.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Jan 12, 2016 - 09:53am PT
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It's 2016 boith! If it's not on Facebook, it never happened! YAY! XOXO!
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jan 12, 2016 - 01:00pm PT
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Once again, Erik Sloan's beliefs are at odds with those of other climbers.
By extrapolating his "No Topo = No Route" concept a tiny bit, we get:
If someone writes a song, but doesn't release it on CD, then it doesn't exist. And, therefore, anyone is free to plagiarize it, and call it their own.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Jan 12, 2016 - 01:10pm PT
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If someone writes a song, but doesn't release it on CD, then it doesn't exist. And, therefore, anyone is free to plagiarize it, and call it their own.
Probably a bad example.
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Jan 12, 2016 - 03:09pm PT
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Sounds like a proud line Steve. Here's to adventure and keeping it wild.
It is most unfortunate this thug Sloan has taken it upon himself to rape Yosemite / El Cap as he sees fit. I feel sorry for the young man with his mental illness and hope that the authorities are able to apprehend him soon. He has already admitted to power drilling in the park which apparently is illegal. It will be a good day in the history of Yosemite when Erik Sloan is arrested and eventually booted out of the National Park System. Sloan, put the drill down you A-hole! Learn to respect those with more talent and vision than yourself.
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BrandonAdams
Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
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Jan 14, 2016 - 01:44pm PT
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A route is a social construct? Perhaps sometimes but it is certainly not one of the defining characteristics of a route.
Insane. Why does Eric keep attempting to independently redefine climbing?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jan 14, 2016 - 01:53pm PT
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How can you know where the route is if you can't know where the route is?
Seems to me if you are worried about someone else putting up a route over yours, then you need to publish a topo.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 14, 2016 - 05:39pm PT
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I have written a fair bit about this route on this forum and anyone can contact me if they need more information. I have released topos to routes that I have done just none to Sloan as I said up thread.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!