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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
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Nov 13, 2009 - 02:24pm PT
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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Nov 13, 2009 - 02:27pm PT
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MH2 -
Isn't that Preying Mantle not Tai & Randy?
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Nov 13, 2009 - 02:29pm PT
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Index is one of my most favorite places that I have ever been. I moved to Oregon and the climbing just isn't Index! I'm just working on an indoor gym at my house right now to get back in shape. Too bad I won't get the footwork I need for Index on it!
The last time I was there was a couple/few months ago. My girlfriend wanted to see the place because I've talked enough about the place to her to get her curious. I didn't understand some things. There is a lot more bolts there than a few years ago. I don't mind bolts but they are ugly and too many of them make a wall look like a piece of shitty modern art. Kinda weird that some of the older routes done by poster above are just covered in moss. They are hard and he has "magic feet". They should get cleaned and used.
Another thing, my Index guide has more notes about hanging on gear or pulling on pieces than any place I've climbed. I don't think I could even stand up on some of those smears and edges now. I think that place is great training for yosemite! Free or aid! Damn I need to train a ton and get back there!
I'd be curious how many people have freeded Green Dragon now. It's been a couple years since they pulled that off. Probably lots but then again it's Index...
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MH2
climber
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Nov 13, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
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MH2 -
Isn't that Preying Mantle not Tai & Randy?
Thanks, you are right, of course.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Nov 13, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
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It's Preying Mantel for sure. Skin Graft is to the right. Preying... is pretty dirty as a few years ago. I always thought Bob and Doris looked really good. Never been on it free climbing though.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Nov 13, 2009 - 03:07pm PT
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Those shiny bolts? I'm pretty happy they are't old and rusty, but you're right they don't need to be so bright and shiny, maybe a little camo paint might work wonders?
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Nov 13, 2009 - 03:34pm PT
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I'm all for replacing old bolts. I mean index is next to a railroad! I'm thinking of other stuff... doesn't really matter. I love index!
Did that guy have rope drag on jap gardens?
One of the mossy routes unless it's been cleaned. Pretty good and the one to the left looked rad even in a sea of moss!
Aiding in the rain. Super fun heading, done this one about 10 times.
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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 13, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
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MrE, thats me! Eric Gratz took the photo I think, it was one of those hot late summer days we flailed our way to the base of the last pitch melting shoe rubber and dripping sweat the whole way before bailing and heading for the river.
This summer I think a lot of the cleaning action in the sky valley was on the various boulders that lurk in the woods:
An exploration photo:
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the hobo
climber
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Jan 25, 2010 - 07:44pm PT
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This thread is going hell bent for glory.
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Jan 25, 2010 - 08:03pm PT
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When I was working on freeing Japanese Gardens, I went in to Dave Page's for a resole, and said to him (tongue in cheek):
"Blew through another pair of shoes trying to free YOUR CLIMB!!"
Without pause, he retorted:
"It's a lot easier in aiders."
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jan 25, 2010 - 08:55pm PT
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jan 25, 2010 - 10:09pm PT
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I still have scars on my wrists that make me look like a suicide survivor from leading Rattletale.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 26, 2010 - 12:26am PT
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I still have scars on my wrists that make me look like a suicide survivor from leading Rattletale.
It's kind of like compressing the entire Split Pillar pitch at Squamish into about 30 feet. But harder.
Here's another classic Index sandbag -- Sagittarius. Originally graded 5.9 I think, and now often called 10b. But it spits out 10b climbers as fast as they get on it.
Crux comes low down
But it's got its moments higher up, as well.
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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 26, 2010 - 12:57am PT
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I've got those rattle tale scars too...
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jan 26, 2010 - 01:09am PT
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Ryanb - you have some great images.
Godzilla + Slow Children is about as good as it gets.
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Sherri
Trad climber
WA
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Jan 26, 2010 - 02:24am PT
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I still have scars on my wrists that make me look like a suicide survivor from leading Rattletale.
Yep. But what a way to go. :)
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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 26, 2010 - 02:44am PT
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Thanks Mike,
Index is pretty much my favorite place to climb.
Here are a couple more from the lower and upper wall.
Some cool history/wierd sh#t out there in those woods too. We happend upon a bunch of old iron in the middle of no where once:
Some even say the bush house is one of the most haunted places in WA.
I don't personally go in for that but I did get a shock on a trip out to the lower wall last spring:
Hopefully the Washington Climbers Coalition manages to pull the purchase off...(link)
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jan 26, 2010 - 11:44am PT
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Jan 26, 2010 - 11:46am PT
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Who's got a picture of the old delivery van bump.
Ghost, that shot of Saggitarius is great! The full version is a true 5.10 testpiece.
Erik
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