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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Apr 14, 2009 - 08:26pm PT
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Tipping one to Bill, Larry and DMS
And to Bill's Hoffers (there they are again !)
Was it the late '90s when Bill moved on ?
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Pennsylenvy
Big Wall climber
Memomma, Isle
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Apr 28, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
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It was windy this Saturday, so we had to resort to deviant tactics..
Pumphouse Wash, right in my backyard, nothing but trees and a dirt road separates this Arizona appreciation beauty, 5 miles of them...
We came a little ill prepared. This crack was longer than we thought. Too bad. We had to set our sites upon something else.
the ultimate dihedral
now here's a bit of some unfortunate truth. I told my buddy Doug that I onsighted this route (I lied). But I did clip the first three pitons off the ground (which is a feat in itself!!). Poor Doug, sandbagged again. The moss/slab crux was pretty gruesome.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Apr 28, 2009 - 11:02pm PT
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Why, I believe that's White Wedding in Pumphouse Wash.
(the first corner)
On West Side of Canyon ?
Look like it to you Steve ?
Is there a belay in now at the top of the first pitch ?
(Take a bolt kit, it needs a belay and bolts on 2nd pitch.
see mountain project)
And Ultimate Dihedral below that.
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Pennsylenvy
Big Wall climber
Memomma, Isle
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Apr 28, 2009 - 11:16pm PT
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So Paul, you call that white wedding? We didn't make it up yet!!!!
Hopefully will be better prepared next time. Next attempt I am gonna bring the right gear. Looked like an anchor below the bush would make sense. I will try to find what the local knowledge base knows about this.
Edit I looked on Mtn Project and this is the crack.It's so nice I can't believe it hasn't had a few ascents. We certainly did not have triples...been there before but it's easy to forget how long these climbs are. With the right amount of gear I think we certainly could have topped the first pitch. The second looked to be a deep recessed chimney. Do you recollect?
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Apr 29, 2009 - 06:56pm PT
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Our first pitch belayed up in the chimney to which you refer. Which sort of reminds me that pulling out of the crack and into the bombay was pretty exciting, especially since at that point, I could see what the belay was.
The base of the bombay is where Steve had the butt/foot belay and a #3 hex sideways on maybe 2 points.
For the 2nd pitch, I went out onto the face right of the chimney. I think I remember the chimney pinching out not too far up and I seem to recall getting some gear in there and at the occasional overlap. As I mentioned on MP, I believe we had to simul for about 15 ft of the second pitch in order to make the rim and the big jack pines. But those were 50m daze.
You will definitely want a bolt kit to put in a belay if you go to the chimney and I think the second pitch can use a couple bolts.
Good luck with it and enjoy. Certainly seems odd if it's never seen a second. There is that ultimate frisbee route which might be this climb but that description makes it sound like it's in the UFC alcove. I don't know how else you could be a west facing wall and be on same canyon side as UFC.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 29, 2009 - 09:57pm PT
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White Wedding for sure!
Who did the Ultimate Dihedral FA? Pins?
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Apr 29, 2009 - 10:03pm PT
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Tim Coats and Stan Mish...
I think they're drilled baby angles.
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Riotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, Arizona
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Apr 29, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
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White Wedding, huh?
The Doctor always told me that thing had been done before. I stumbled upon it in '96. I went up there the next time I could get a willing partner. Thinking I had done the first ascent, I called it The Beauty, a name that made it in to Bloom's "Castles in the Sand" guidebook. I don't think he gave me credit for the first ascent, however.
Anyway, I just got off the phone with Pencilenvy and told him about the two bolt anchor I put on a sloping ledge out right. Its about a 130' pitch and I used triple #1, #2, & #3 camalots (wished I had brought a #4). I called Pencilenvy a wuss for not getting to my anchors. But I take it back, you don't run it out on this rock like you do on granite.
pk & Grossman, you guys are psycho, I'm not sure what lies up above the first pitch even qualifies as "rock". Nice route, a real beauty . . .
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 30, 2009 - 09:50am PT
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So's Billy!
Take me back home
There is nothin fair in this world
There is nothin safe in this world
And theres nothin sure in this world
And theres nothin pure in this world
Look for something left in this world
Start again
Come on
Its a nice day for a white wedding
Its a nice day to start again.
Its a nice day for a white wedding
Its a nice day to start again
5.10++ or so on the grade for White Wedding?
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2009 - 10:22am PT
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Ultimate Frisbee (picture by M. GeikenJoyner):
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Apr 30, 2009 - 06:50pm PT
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Larry Coats came up with the name Cocoweap for the Pumphouse Wash rock.
Much sandier than Coconino, not as well bonded and certainly not limestone.
When Steve started to simul the 2nd pitch with only a few pieces between him and me and a full rope, I remember thinking,
"Great, I'm gonna die on some POS pitch the day before I get married."
I was damn glad it was Steve down on the other end and even happier when I hit the rim and ran around a big old Jack Pine.
Here's the story of the first ascent:
http://mountainproject.com/v/arizona/oak_creek_canyon/pumphouse_wash/106230149
That's the beauty of a lot of the Sedona routes, no fixed gear means you can find yourself having a first ascent adventure.
I recall running into Dave Houchin at a bean fest once and him telling me about the time they did Sand Castle. They thought they were bagging a classic first ascent until they topped out on the OW of pitch 2 and came upon a fixed baby at the belay ledge. He was bummed. I told him the great thing was that he'd gotten to do the climb as if it were a first ascent. I'll have to scan slides of that climb. It's truly memorable and safe. There are other climbs in Castles in the Sand that have erroneous names and FA parties. I suspect it'll all get cleaned up with the new guide.
Glad to know WW now has a belay. Certainly a worthy one pitch climb and if one is feeling a bit psycho, there's the second pitch to lead. We pretty much had no choice but to go for the rim.
Thnx for the pic Sr. E. Clears up my confusion.
Definitely some very distinctive routes in Pumphouse.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nothing jogs the memory like a good photo.
Any beaver still living in the wash?
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Pennsylenvy
Big Wall climber
The climbing Capital of the Galaxy
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No beaver sightings.
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Riotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, Arizona
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You have to go during swimming season to see any beaver ;)
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2009 - 01:03pm PT
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tcoats
Trad climber
Utah
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Actually Paul, here’s the history of the Ultimate Dihedral:
Jim Haisley and I put in the baby angles on the mossy traverse and climbed the first pitch not too long after we stole the Ultimate Finger Crack from you. Back in those days we considered it an uncompleted climb if you didn’t go to the top, so we came back with Stan Mish and added 2 more pitches to the rim. I remember Stan leading a super sketchy pitch with bad pro and worse rock. It didn’t seem to faze him in the least. I’m sure those pitched have never been repeated.
We didn’t name it the Ultimate Dihedral either; John Madsen and Dow Davis called it that after finding it later that summer. I’m can’t remember what its real name is, probably Dyno Honers from Outerspace.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Why there's Tim....
Ya know, now I remember you and haze climbing that stuff.
Not much ever fazed Mr. Mish. However, he could certainly phase others.
Sure you didn't call it Dyno Whores from Innerspace ?
Oh yeah, I'm starting to think I might finally forgive you if you'd ever show up to any of the fall outings.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Tim- Did you belay me on Shot In The Dark on the Sine Wall at the Forks?
I recall a nasty, RP protected 5.10+ R/X route in the tightest of columns.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Some more route info fishing.....
At one of the banquets early on, a bunch of us went climbing in Sedona. Herb North and I picked out a striking offwidth route and Fig and Dave Baker started up a line to the left and got stopped. I went over and finished that one too. The right one was named True Grit, if I recall, and I can't remember the left one.
DB and Fig didn't make very many gatherings so the timeframe is pretty narrow. I can't even recall the area location!?!
Another vagary...Larry, what did that one drilled angle route near the Mace finally get named. You were reading a book about the Hell's Angels at the time so I proposed Kickstart Spire?!?
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Tower of Boodle was the formation ?
Dreams Come True was the Climb ?
I believe you led 1 pitch, Herb led another and Dave, Fig and I took a rope to the top.
True Grit was the climb on the next formation East
All behind Dr. Rubo's
All remembrances are sketchy...
I believe Toula's guide has True Grit and Dreams come True reversed.
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