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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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May 18, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
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ha ha, get over it... it's called Thief in the Night.
Nah....I'm the type that digs further. Not over it yet. A teacher, eh? I see "research" isn't part of your rhetoric.
Thief In The Night.....Ha ha.....original.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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May 18, 2009 - 12:38pm PT
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Dude... everyone should have an Arwyn poster over their bed! Sheesh!
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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May 18, 2009 - 05:35pm PT
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No, 'good' is when you fail to do your homework and label routes in a guidebook as 'Unknown' when they actually have names (insert Pink Floyd's "Money"). Hmmm.....the internet would be a good place to start.
Pass me the lighter fluid JR. ;)
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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May 22, 2009 - 04:22pm PT
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Hey JR or Grahm -
What's the word on Beasore? Still snow up near Cold Springs summit? Tiki told me that Grizzly is open. Gonna be up in Shuteye 2moro. Crazy Horse said he's showing up at LE on Saturday (solo) and looking to link up with one of us to partner with.
Sup?
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Thanks for the update Grahm. I'll be sure to bring the Busey's to scare away them demon thunderheads!
Will be up there on Saturday morning thru Sunday.....dodging hail and wearing my down jacket!
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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My brother went hiking from the Norris trailhead last weekend. The norris trailhead is a bit towards Clover Meadow from the bowler campground. He accessed it from Beasore. He's got a pretty big truck and got stuck hard back there and had to shovel out. as far as I know it's open now, but might still be 4wd only. Either way Grizzley should be open though you might have to access it from minerets road if you want to do it in 2wd.
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kev
climber
CA
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Um, the roads are clear unless it snowed Monday.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Beasore has been open for a week, due to our resident Tiki-Jer spending a couple hours on it and mustering many anxious folks mostly from the Meadows! Way to go!!
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Was up last weekend and Beasore was open through the meadow. Grizzly was clear all the way down to Minarets Road.
Didn't go look for myself - but was told by folks in the area that truck eating snow drifts still block easy access into Clover Meadow from both directions.
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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"Beasore has been open for a week, due to our resident Tiki-Jer spending a couple hours on it and mustering many anxious folks mostly from the Meadows! Way to go!!"
sweet. Thanks Gerry. You were probably the guy my bro borrowed the shovel from!!
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Slater
climber
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Two new routes went in on Hobbit Dome.
Mixed gear and bolts, 140' each.
Excellent if I do say so.
photos on slatervision.com on "sierra climbing" page.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Tom,
The rock and routes looked good indeed. Roger shared a few pics.
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Slater
climber
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Not hard, but engaging. Roger was a positive influence, loved climbing with him, he's pretty chill and he has kids, so I related. Can't wait to try out your developing area in the future. With my current projects now done, I'm gonna play elsewhere for now... Needles and later Kings. But I'll be back up in the fall. Maybe then?
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Hey Matt...I climbed with your brother at Chiquito....remember??
But some guy did borrow the shovel at cold springs.
Some old guy had a breaker bar that came in real handy for the icy sections.
Learned some history from the old cabin owners.
Next day saw the old "hawaiian shirt dude" (kinda Ernest Hemingway)
at the Mtn. House with Roger.
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Grahm,
Those are cool pics of "Eagle's Gift"! I had to stare at them for a few minutes before I realized that's a route Dan McDevitt and I put up called Va-Va-Voom. It's right at the corner of High Eagle where the south face turns to the east face. The climber is falling at the crux where you have to move right around the corner on some thin edges. Hasn't Dan given you route info? If not, I'd be happy to help. Please email me!
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Right On! I haven't received anything from Dan. But, I haven't been ready for more info until recently. I have been making notes on all the climbs and figured when the time was right the info would come along.
I figured some routes from you guys might have been renamed over the years. I would love to get the scoop on all the stuff you guys did and set the record straight for the guide. We are planning on sending the route this Sunday. The moves getting to the arete are nuts! Va VA Voom... You guys did a great job.
I have 50 climbs documented just on High Eagle but half don't have names or FA info yet!
My regular email is didgeridoings@aol.com
I think I have climbed most of the routes already and have some of the info but...
If possible I am organizing the info for routes like this:
Location - Grade - Name - Bolt count, Gear Req., Anchor type - Length in Meters - Description - FA Party, Date
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Urmas,
For High Eagle SE Face, there's a whole topo which I think Louie Anderson made, on rockclimbing.com. Here is a revised version of it:
[topos and route list updated 6/6/09]
and a redrawn version:
Here's a photo overlay based on it, using a photo from Matt's page:
And a route list - many of the names are missing:
High Eagle Dome - SE face (approach trail from notch campsite)
361. Song of the Night 5.10a *, 4p, p1: 5.8 or 5.10 ow, p2: 5.10a to 5.7, p3: 5.8
362. Gravity's Rainbow 5.10, crack, R of last pitch of Song of the Night
363. Night Hawk 5.10c *, 4p, p1: 5.10a to 5.10c, p2: 5.9 to 5.6 knobs
364. un HE C 5.10a, 6x, gear, 120'
365. un HE D 5.10d, 4p, 5.10b/d ow
366. un HE E 5.11a, 11x, 100'
367. Eagle Dreams 5.10b *, 4p, p1: 6x, gear, 100'
368. un HE G 5.10d *, 12x, 100'
369. un HE H 5.11b, 8x, 80'
370. un HE I 5.10c, 5x, gear, 55'
371. un HE J 5.10a, 6x, 80'
372. un HE K 5.11a *, 8x, 80'
373. Easy Rider 5.11d, 16x, 140', black hangers?, at start climb K and reach over to clip ER bolts
374. Tranquility 5.13c *, 16x, 130', wide black streak on headwall, some chipped holds
375. Spirit Waves 5.11b, 10x, 90' to midway anchors, or 165' finish on VtA
376. Sky Clad 5.13d pr., belay at top of Spirit Waves/VtA, face R of black streak
377. un HE O 5.12, __x, crack between Spirit Waves and Voyage to A., 110'
378. un HE P 5.12d, __x, upper wall, p1 to anchor, p2 crosses streak
379. Voyage to Antiquity 5.10a, 13x, gear, 175', parallel and L of EKN
Joins Spirit Waves
380. Turkey Vulture 5.13a, 20x, right from top of VtA on obvious underclings, 2nd half 12b, reachy, 165'
381. Eine Kleine Nachtmusik 5.10a *, 3p, p1: 5.9 60m, p2 5.10a slab, p3 5.6 knobs
382. A Gathering of Eagles 5.11 *, 1p, __x, gear
383. Threatened and Endangered 5.11d *, 11x, 175'
384. Bio Luminescent (halfway) 5.11a, starts just right of TaE
385. Bio Luminescent (full) 5.12c, 20x, shares anchor with TaE, 165'
386. Eagle's Gift 5.12a *, 1p, joins The Eagle has Landed
387. Illuminati
388. Crack Attack 5.11c, 3x to L-arching crack which joins Illuminati, 80'
389. The Eagle has Landed 5.12b *, 3p, over roof and up arete
and some FA info which is probably incomplete/wrong:
361. Song of the Night FA: Eric Richard, Herb Laeger, Greg Vernon, 10/87
364. un HE C FA: (for several of these routes) Dan McDevitt, Sue McDevitt, (some) Urmas Franosch
367. Eagle Dreams FA: Jim Matthews or Patrick Paul, Greg Vernon, 9/88
377. un HE O FA: Sean Leary
378. un HE P FA: Sean Leary
379. Voyage to Antiquity FA: Gary Henning, 9/05
380. Turkey Vulture FA: Grahm Doe, 2007
381. Eine Kleine Nachtmusik FA: Jim Matthews, Greg Vernon, 10/88
383. Threatened and Endangered FA: Richard Leversee, Kevin Daniels, Herb Laeger, Pete Cassam, 1997
385. Bio Luminescent (full) FA: Grahm Doe, 2007
386. Eagle's Gift FA: Andrew Stevens, Ron Carson, 10/88
388. Crack Attack FA: Grahm Doe, 2007
389. The Eagle has Landed FA: Ron Carson, Andrew Stevens, 10/88
And for historical reference, the page from Greg Vernon's supplement (sorry this does not reproduce very well):
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Thanks Clint! Dan's the one who recorded the route names and other info. I left him a message and hope to hear from him soon. I'll be going there myself in a couple weeks, and my memory will be refreshed. For now there's not much I can add to what you guys alredy know. Do you have a photo of the east face?
Grahm, May you send on Sunday!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Urmas,
Here is a long distance shot of High Eagle East Face (SE on L, NE on R) with a crummy camera from the east (Chiquito Dome). Grahm and Matt probably have much better shots of the East Face.
High Eagle East Face - SE on L, NE on R
[other photos deleted - see Grahm's below!]
Again, Grahm probably has a much better shot of this.
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