Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2015 - 01:29am PT
|
Vis-a-vis Woodson, Gary, this visual aid helps explain the difference between you and me.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2015 - 10:50am PT
|
hypoxia...it has to be. Scary.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2015 - 06:19pm PT
|
|
|
dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2015 - 06:47pm PT
|
Awesome, I love this shhit.
This is the most "Goin' Off" thread happening.
.....and yes, I hate Woodson.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2015 - 07:14pm PT
|
Hold a post Bob
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2015 - 08:11pm PT
|
Whatever, blue balls. For the 100th time Gary, I'm not gonna "hold" your "post" for you ya goddamn sexual pervert. Grab some $20's and go get a hoe like everybody else.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
|
|
|
Aug 16, 2015 - 03:47pm PT
|
All your nonsense Bob because I want to see some climbing photos of someone doing some classic problems up at Woodson. Care to correct me? I know you will.
Someone, post up some climbing photos quick, get this thread back on track!
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
|
|
|
Aug 16, 2015 - 03:48pm PT
|
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
|
|
|
Aug 16, 2015 - 03:49pm PT
|
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
|
|
|
Aug 16, 2015 - 03:50pm PT
|
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
|
|
|
Aug 16, 2015 - 03:56pm PT
|
Name that climb:
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
|
|
|
Aug 16, 2015 - 03:59pm PT
|
Name the climb and climber:
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Aug 16, 2015 - 05:17pm PT
|
Name the dick and smoker:
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2015 - 01:57am PT
|
were these bolts on "R n R" placed on the lead? If not they are coming out and there aint jack anyone can do about it. There is an ethic pertaining to woodson climbing that began probably before you were born scatterguy, and its not about some old geezers wanting to ruin your fun, its about preserving the rock so that everyone can continue to enjoy it into the future. If this climb had a tr anchor why would you put in bolts? So you can have a 20 foot lead? If you want to lead then go to to idylwild or joshua tree or el cajon mountain even. There are miles and miles of untouched rock in the east county where you can put up your tiny leads and nobody will care, but not at woodson. Woodson is the pride of san diego climbing with a rich history of hard problems and hard climbers. You placed these bolts against the consensus, against the established ethic and in defiance of accepted practices, agreed uopn long ago and honored by generations of climbers since. What have you contributed to woodson? New routes? Trailwork, Exploration, anything? How much of the hill have you even seen? How many of the problems have you done? You have no standing. Hopefully you will accept that you were out of line and learn from your mistake, nobody likes a whiner. But how you take it is inconsequential, the bolts will come out and thats that. If this thing is allowed to stay then it will open the door to widespread degradation of the rock. You made a statement and should expect a counter statement. Nothing personal. If I end up being the one who removes your bolts then I will say so. Fair warning
|
|
Friend
climber
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2015 - 09:50am PT
|
I kept hoping someone more eloquent than me would verbalize what I was thinking about that in-your-face bolting job. Voila, there it is. Thanks Ron, well said. +1 from me.
Scatterbrain, how many classic toprope problems are down at Woodson. A hundred? How many bolted leads are there? Like, three?
You coming on here and begging people to go do "your" climb, in an after-the-fact effort to get some consensus on whether it is good or not, totally misses the point. It doesn’t matter how good/fun it is. You are saying this climb is soooo fun and high quality that it deserves to be turned into a lead? It’s better than Stairway to Heaven and Go with the Flow? Really. Ask around first, before you drill, not after.
The consensus you’re looking for already exists and has for decades. Those bolts are glaringly obvious eyesores, right next to the road, and whether you’re buddies with Erik Roed (I assume that’s whose name you’re trying to drop by mentioning "Eric Rhodes"), or whether Clark Jacobs likes John Weinberg, has nothing to do with it. I guess saying Weinberg better stay away “or bad things will happen” is meant to sound threatening but really it just sounds lame.
These bolts, the new Mystery boulder bolt, the bolt on the Yoav Crack, bolts above the aid seam next to the Widow Bereft... WTF is going on down there? Who is so excited to drill bolts all over the place? You want consensus and community opinion, there’s mine. Leave the bolts at home people.
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2015 - 10:04am PT
|
Well said. I would never dream of bringing a bolt kit up to Woodson - a finite goddamn resource if ever there ever was one. Have your own experiences but let people have theirs... imagine rolling up to Seminar Wall and seeing lead bolts? Yuck.
I guess saying Weinberg better stay away “or bad things will happen” is meant to sound threatening but really it just sounds lame.
John is legit crazy. I wouldn't put that out there. lol.
;)
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2015 - 03:57pm PT
|
imagine rolling up to Seminar Wall and seeing lead bolts? Yuck.
Imagine rolling up to Uncertainty and seeing lead bolts! That happened in the 80's and were promptly removed... never did get a chance to get on that, would have been pretty cool though.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2015 - 04:22pm PT
|
Regarding the bolting ethics, here's a conversation between Dan Goodwin (Skyscraperman Dan) and John Bachar, taken from a tribute to John Bachar here on ST, that gives you an idea where this ethic comes from:
"“I thought you should know,” John said, “But I chopped Apollo.”
Apollo was an overhanging 5.12d /13.a I established after sending Equinox on the opposite side of the dirt road in Joshua Tree. At the crux, where the thin seams ends, I decided to place a bolt because I deemed the route unsafe after nearly hitting the deck when my wire stopper ripped while lunging for the flake.
“Why did you do that?” I asked.
“I chopped it because you placed the bolt on rappel.”
“But it was impossible to place the bolt on lead,” I responded in my defense.
“It doesn’t matter,” he said. “You know the rules. No bolting on rappel.”
“So how do you expect someone to lead it?”
“They can’t lead it now.”
“So you just rip the bolt out?” I remembered how difficult it was to place on rappel.
“Yup.”
I was hoping his actions didn’t scar the rock. “Did you do the route?”
John nodded. “On top rope.”
“What did you think?”
“It was a killer route. Thought it was closer to 5.12d than 5.13a.”
“That’s because you did it on top rope,” I replied. “You can’t compare the two.” Even with the bolt, the crux move was pretty intimidating.
“True. But you know the rules.”
But even placing bolts on lead doesn't jive at Woodson... well, that's even up for discussion.
|
|
herethewholetime
Trad climber
Socal
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2015 - 10:21pm PT
|
I usually don`t post but thought I would throw a few things out there. First off Scattergun did not put the route up I did. He showed me the route and we thought it would be fun as a lead. Neither of us could find it online or in any guide books. In the past couple decades that friend of mine and I have climbed at Woodson and neither of us knew it was a line that went. It was put in ground up. A good friend of mine belayed me. I put the anchor bolt far back so others could use them for the crack and center of the face. The route has been up going onto 2 years. So far I have only heard good things about this route till John started crying about it. Claims he tried it off of the old rusted leaper hanger a few years ago. I would love to watch him do it, that thing probably could not support his body weight let alone his ego. As for John it seems whenever their is a problem his name comes up. He seems to like chopping other people's stuff, but it`s ok for him to bolt whatever he wants. Don`t worry I know where most of his bolt are ;) I recall a certain route at Suicide that got anchor bolts after all of these years for a certain someones convenience. Lets not forget he removed the pins from Etude, or the hanger from Sundance. Oh wait I didn`t do it but know who did (wink wink). I know of more should I go on? As far as his friends backing him they are just doing what friends do. A dark cloud always seems to follow where ever this climber goes.
As far as the bolts on the face by POA, GCS, or Yoav they are not mine. Although the one on Yoav is great for keeping the rope out of the crack, but hate to break the news to everyone it`s been there for a while. It has been there for just over a year before the route got posted on mountainproject.
Just wanted to get a few facts straight. Do whatever your going to do because your going to do it anyways. Just remember in the end the rock pays. Please don`t pm me or write posts to me. I normally don`t the forum this stuff because I think it can be toxic. I like to come on Supertopo from time to time to see what I love....climbing.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2015 - 10:48pm PT
|
But even placing bolts on lead doesn't jive at Woodson... well, that's even up for discussion.
Actually, no, for the most part it is not up for discussion.
Gary, fishing for approval to bolt Uncertainty back in 2009:
I need some feedback on this...a ground up bolting of this route...what do you think Poway Mountain Boys? It was rap bolted by Troy and Marty then pulled shortly thereafter back in the 90's. This is such a classic line and I've always thought it would maintain that status if it was bolted. Would it see any more traffic than what it already sees if bolted? Next question: hand or power drill?
Piggot hooked and hand drilled Phd. I'm feeling I should follow his lead?
I was there when it was beimg bolted and thought, "its about time!". I could mark the key holds and avoid hooking on them I suppose. Then again, if I rap bolt is someone going to run up there and pull them again?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!