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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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++1 for Survival
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Thanks fellas, I thought there might be a few around here that could relate to that.....HA!!!!
Beside that, the true hard man is a master of all disciplines, from boulders, to hard aid, to climbing 5.13 onsight, on a first ascent at 26,000 feet, in a country he's in illegally,...... with no money.
Now there's an elite group.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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You're on a roll, survival....!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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I'll go for that.
+1 Survival
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Hey Mark, you're an Oregon guy. I've got a personal favor to ask.
I want you to see the evening light in the little canyon behind the Wombat formation. Not the wall you see from the Red Wall parking area, but behind it. Just some quiet time alone back there, time to reflect, can be as good as the side of El Cap, if you let it be. And it's a helluva lot closer to you, and cheaper to get to. You don't even have to climb. You can hike up the Burma road and then the ridge to ease down in there. One day I was in there and the birds were as incredible as anywhere I've been.
Take some weed, um, I mean coffee.
By the way, Santiam highway ledges is a route you wouldn't regret doing. It's so remote from the dihedrals scene, and good climbing. It's own little universe up there.
Always have admired your stuff man.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Survival, Thanks, I sort of need that right now.
Cheers,
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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That's all you needed to say. I know the feeling, too well.
Often, the magic is in the quiet 2.5 star places, not the 5 star places.
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Degaine
climber
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Sep 10, 2012 - 02:54am PT
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Stars are not just in the eye of the beholder but also linked to expectations, at least in my experience.
Climbed a route on Saturday that all my friends told me was a choss pile, went in with lower than low expectations and had a great time on the route, not only was I pleasantly surprised, but found the climbing to be excellent.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Sep 10, 2012 - 02:04pm PT
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Best 1 star climb in the world, on Wombat!!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 10, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
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For starters, not even a third of the sport climbing population has the mindset or risk management skills to even be interested in trad. But the real damage here, and the danger is significant, is in conning the sport climber that he or she SHOULD be able to just crush trad climbing so long asthe interest is there. If they can, it will have little to do with their sport climbing background, but rather because they have a natural aptitude as an adventure athlete. And the fact is, the ratio of natural born adventure athletes has not changed that much because human nature has not changed. Sure, the modern sport climber is a regular human fly, but we can't cut the legs off these people by telling them that by all means they should be leading 5.12 cracks out at Josh by their 3rd weekend of trad climbing. I think there's a lot of truth in this statement, particularly the first sentence. Many just don't want the uncertainty, the risk, the "adventure" if you will, associated with trad climbing.
While some might say that the Kevin Jorgeson video undercuts that argument, I think not. The guy is at such the upper echelon in the category of boulderers/sport climbers that you cannot fairly lump him in that subcategory and say every other member will perform at the same level given the opportunity. He's is perhaps more like a Thomas Huber, who arrived in the Valley to free the Salathe with little crack climbing experience, saying that as long as he could get his fingers in a crack, it was good since he had "power to waste". Morever, given their track record on El Cap, including some sketchy leads on routes like the NA Wall, the Hubers were clearly into the adventure aspects. They seemed more like die in the wool trad climbers who just happened to find sport climbing first.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Sep 10, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
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Maybe they are simply Climbers and not worried about the different catagorys so much...
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buster
Mountain climber
canada
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Dec 30, 2012 - 05:29pm PT
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charlie told me this story.he said the guy was the best climber he ever met....quite a statement from chuck
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Dec 30, 2012 - 07:21pm PT
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To the OP .... to be able to walk up to any 5.11 ... sport , trad , face ,
wall, fingers, thin hands , overhanging OW flare , polished friction , unprotected alpine face in sub temps,etc. is very rare indeed . I like
to think of myself as a 5.11 climber but I just ain't....I respect those
who can.
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prickle
Gym climber
globe,az
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Dec 30, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
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I always thought you had to be able to onsight any climb of the grade to claim it. I only made it to 5.9.
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