Guiding Everest is not morally defensible

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rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
May 25, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
Maybe the guiding fee should double to include a rescue fee...? After all , rescuing someone at that altitude is more difficult than making them ascend a fixed rope via jumars...Wouldn't this eliminate some of the trophy hunting fodder..? RJ
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
May 25, 2012 - 10:33pm PT
Probably not. But having to demonstrate competency at basic mountaineering skills like putting your own crampons on would.
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
May 25, 2012 - 10:41pm PT
Extra money would better be spent I think, by supplying more oxygen and
other supplies to begin with. From what I can see, the smart companies are
having their clients spend 24 hours at the south col resting, sleeping and
hydrating before the final push instead of rushing them from Camp 3 to
the top and all the way back down to Camp 2.

And as Philos says, making the clients demonstrate some compentency
to begin with.




TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
May 25, 2012 - 11:39pm PT
somebody tell all those wealthy Everest tourists to spend their money on space tourism instead
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 25, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
Is the mountain stable enough for a full on tunnel and elevator system?

Sleds Over Everest are currently trying to do active research to find out
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
May 26, 2012 - 05:39am PT
I just knew that climbing that mountain wasn't your real goal!
Now I understand. So who's paying for this expedition?
With lobster and all, I suspect it's the same people who
sponsored those other expeditions in the Himalayas
in the 60's.
carteblanche

climber
May 26, 2012 - 06:28am PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
cliffhanger

Trad climber
California
May 26, 2012 - 11:38am PT
Why don't the guides put in some extra lanes? On the broad slopes unlimited ropes could be fixed. Even on the Hillary Step several ropes could be set up.

Hillary Step

Blue Sheep

More pics: http://trekkinnepal.com/fr/gallery.php
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2012 - 11:43am PT
Ah yes, the Himalayas, my kind of place- every year more people and fewer Blue Sheep, Snow Leopards, Himalayan Bears...........
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
Good Ron, they need to create more lanes where the traffic jams are, but don't you think ladders would be better than bolts, it's not like people go up there to actually climb.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
May 26, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
they go there to stand on top jim
meanwhile a long time ago on everests backside a pair of heels make it to the kangschung abc all we could do was pose.
TRo

climber
May 26, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
With 6 miles of fixed rope it's basically a via ferrata anyway(actually a via kernmantella). What's a couple of more lines? Next thread should be is bolting at 29000 feet morally defensible?
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
May 26, 2012 - 01:56pm PT
How about ladders for the Hillary Step and a giant slip and slide to BC for the descent? Could be the World's tallest amusement ride.
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
May 26, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
From http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/


I am not aware of any more summit attempts but am always surprised by
last minute pushes on both sides – more often on the North so will keep
you informed.

This far we have 389 summits on the South and 148 on the North for a
total of 537 using my very unscientific estimates. It will take many months
to get the correct final numbers. According to 8000ers.com, the record
year was in 2007 with 633 total summits.
cliffhanger

Trad climber
California
May 26, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
There aren't enough purist climbers to defend Everest against much greater indignities like gondolas, tunnels, etc. With 1000's of hikers going up fixed ropes we gain huge numbers of allies.

The roads and trails in Yosemite have brought millions into the park, millions that will defend it. Without all these defenders the Republicans would sell it off to private exploitation.


http://wildnet.org/wildlife/snowleopard.html?gclid=CMLx0q7RnrACFYcZQgods0pPXw
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
May 26, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
Maybe da ropes already der


Ueli: Have fun climbing.
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
May 27, 2012 - 11:56am PT
bolting war on mt. everest! EIA at 29,000 feet! boffo!

hey, any falcon nests up there?
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
May 27, 2012 - 12:09pm PT
Send in Kruk and Kennedy.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 27, 2012 - 06:26pm PT
This reminds me of the "wilderness values" dilemma recently played out in the Bugaboos. There was a proposal to establish a via ferrata on a rock spur leading up to the bugaboo snowpatch col.

The proposed route for the ladders is also subject to rockfall. I've been in the B-S area perhaps ten times, and seen rockfall hit the via ferrata route twice. There's more loose rock on the Bugaboo side, but neither is rockfall free.

IIRC, another argument for it was that with global warming etc, the B-S col was getting icier, with the bergschrund more often a problem. Which gets back to routes in the Bugs being alpine climbs, even if they're alpine rock climbs, and the need for climbers there to be prepared for ice and glacier travel.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 27, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
I agree it would be less exposed to rockfall, but it's still somewhat exposed. The lower slab to anything falling from the 300+ metres above, and disintegrating into shrapnel on impact; the upper 'buttress' merely being somewhat loose. No right answer, unfortunately.

What?! You say that the masses are sometimes asses? How can that be?

Edit: The photo shows the area as of 2008, when the via ferrata was proposed. How would the date I was last there be relevant to the discussion of whether the via ferrata is subject to rockfall, or appropriate? There are more people there now since the last time I was there, and has been snow/glacial recession, but that's not news.

FWIW, I've been to the Bugaboos five times that I can recall, the first in 1974 and the last in the 1990s. Maybe 30 days total.
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