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REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:47am PT
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Henny, I don't recall how far right Rick went. I think it was a few feet right and up but I could be wrong.
"Welcome to what?"
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:49am PT
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Also, we got on Head First and the crux right hand hold broke! No sends on that. Instead of being a two finger hold, it's now a one finger.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Feb 23, 2011 - 09:45am PT
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TSF is not that tall of a boulder problem. I see you guys have been TR'ing it which could involve tension. The landing is also very good after the opening moves which are easily spotted. I've pitched off the travese on to pads but the temps were a little too hot. One big pad and your good. BTW, get on Greg's face for a somewhat highball problem (big boulder below and facing Seminar wall on the way to Hard as Nails). Probably only 10+ at the top but a little pucker factor, just go for it and you'll be fine. Bring a rope to get off otherwise you will need to downclimb the route.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Feb 24, 2011 - 01:03pm PT
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If I had felt tension while either climbing or belaying I'd only be depriving myself of the process of climbing it. The cool thing about TSF for Mark and I is that we have to believe that we can climb it before knowing the moves. Our progress manifests that realization of turning an abstract idea into something concrete. I'm not looking to cheat myself.
Greg's face was on the list of climbs to get on, but we ran out of time/daylight.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 24, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
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Our progress manifests that realization of turning an abstract idea into something concrete. I'm not looking to cheat myself.
Doug, I hope your thought processes aren't that complicated before you step on stone for if they are, you'll never succeed! No, actually, I hope to run into you guys and get a ride on some of that motivation soon!
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Feb 24, 2011 - 09:48pm PT
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No tenstion like this photo and who was belaying? The photo of you, Doug looks perfect.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Feb 24, 2011 - 10:14pm PT
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From where I was standing, I didn't observe either one of them
"tuning the banjo" In the photo Mark was stepping down into the traverse as Doug was giving slack.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Feb 25, 2011 - 09:48pm PT
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waxing philosophical Doug! I like it.
Doug has good style, and if anyone really cares, I constantly hear him yelling at belayers to not pull on him. He is all about the purity, and having fun.
Rick, you'll be pleased to know that i pulled Korean Cowboy today, complete with a solid mantel : )
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Feb 26, 2011 - 12:09am PT
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That's badass Greg! Wudda' liked to seen that.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 26, 2011 - 12:56am PT
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TV screen is a litttle harder this way.
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fatthew
climber
San Diego
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Feb 26, 2011 - 01:19am PT
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I see you guys have been TR'ing it which could involve tension.
If there was any tension, it was strictly sexual.
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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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Feb 27, 2011 - 01:53am PT
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its snowing on woodson right bow
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Feb 27, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
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Beautiful Sunday morning.
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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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Feb 28, 2011 - 02:59am PT
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I just wish i could go climbing.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Feb 28, 2011 - 08:08am PT
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Feb 28, 2011 - 09:36am PT
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Really cool snow pictures of Woodson. Just got back from Ohio late Saturday night. Rubidoux was hot yesterday(Sunday). I'll be down to Woodson for the next two days. This picture is of a Rubidoux route in the gully just past Wall of Glass area with three bolts. The fist protects the dyno and two more for the headwall(thin dime edges/balance) above placed on aid. Anyone know the name/history(Henny, KP)? This would be a very bad ass highball. Easy 5.12 30'+ OTD great landing.
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fatthew
climber
San Diego
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Feb 28, 2011 - 10:21pm PT
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All in all, a solid day on the hill. Big thanks to Tor Syvertsen for the photos.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2011 - 01:18am PT
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Johnny,
I think that problem is "Welcome to Woodson".
Wait... Not a chance, we always took care of our house better than that. We were constantly on the lookout for those Woodson types trying to snake in.
I don't know anything about that problem. In fact it's one of only a few problems up there that I can't recall having ever tried. KP might know something about it. I bet it was nice up there this time of year. Although probably a bit wet yesterday.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2011 - 01:34am PT
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Donny,
Rick probably did move a little to the right to do Deport Jonny Forever. More independent, better moves, and closer to the given grade. I'm now thinking you were generally correct in where he went.
History 101, since you were there and were one of the players tell us the story of how Deport Jonny got it's name. I just spoke to KP and he says he originally gave it 11a, any idea how the grade ended up so inflated?
And what's up with the IMAX boulder? You locals let a Rubidoux Raiding Party get away with the goods twice on the same boulder. Oh yeah, we won't even mention the tennis shoe problem down the road a bit. Hit a nerve yet?
Edit: good pictures people, keep 'em coming.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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yesterday, Eliot and Doug sent Fallen Gypsy... : )
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