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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 16, 2014 - 09:22am PT
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Descent.
Home again, home again, jiggity-jig.
There is much joy in retelling adventures, packing, climbing, or day tripping.
I appreciate my audience.
Have a nice pleasant Sunday.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 16, 2014 - 05:28pm PT
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A package came to the office downstairs, so I had a note in my mailbox from Saturday, which I hadn't checked till this morning.
The night manager, Shelly, came down and got it for me.
This is the cargo, after I got it all un-taped.
It came through just fine as can be, neebee.
Amy's THE Niece, and I'm the Uncle with No Wrinkled Brow.
I was wearing the same dang sweater, as Shelly pointed out. :0)
I am too bereft of words...NOT!!
But BIG T.HANKS are yours from myself and my family.
Remember the movie BIG, where Tom is a kid in a grown-up's body?
[Click to View YouTube Video]neebee's a dancer, and don't you also "pianicize?"
The saddest part of all of this, and it's real heart-rending:
Amy and Adam were wed in the Yosemite Chapel, January 1, 2003;
her mother, Lenna, called the other day,
literally just hours after I had tossed out the dang picture of Adam and Amy on that day,
their wedding shot, dated;
and then Lenna related
as to how Amy had earlier in the day
called to say
that their divorce is finalized.
What more can I say
that explains "irony"
and "anti-serendipity" any better?
The likeness of Amy is just incredible, by the way.
I am no judge of my own looks, certainly, but it looks like me according to you, so that's all I need to know.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 16, 2014 - 05:34pm PT
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Recalling more T.HANKS, handsome is as handsome does.Amy is an accredited hair-cutting type like her great-grandmother Ora Belle was not. Ora Belle picked it all up from magazines and GFs and her sisters, I imagine...
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujo de la Playa
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Mar 16, 2014 - 10:16pm PT
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The Portrero is where the cows without much money eat or The Potrero whose owner did not pay the water bill. It's mighty dry this year.
I have to admit to a bit of a mistake here. There are actually four peaks at the Moreno Butte, not three. So if you're not careful it's possible that you may not get the opportunity to sign the "guest" book (that's what we call it at The (Wealthy) Potrero. I know Paul Ryan used this excuse and I know Paul Ryan and I am not Paul Ryan.
When will readers here, see the mouse's version of the Airplane Crash at Lower Merced River Pass? or The Plane Wreck near Los Gatos.
You won't have a name once you ride the big airplane, all you'll be called will be de-postees.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujo de la Playa
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Mar 16, 2014 - 11:01pm PT
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 17, 2014 - 12:23am PT
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Ahh, BBs vs. Howitzers, eh?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 17, 2014 - 01:49am PT
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And from our Berkeley correspondents, Throwpie and Throwpeg (who are somewhere being themselves, I hope), comes this one on his FB page.
STeven, we have you on the air...
Peg?
Anyone there?
http://sftimes.co/?id=115&src=share_fb_new_115
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujo de la Playa
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Mar 17, 2014 - 10:42am PT
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If you find that stove you're looking for this will tell you how to operate it.
If you master the stove, try looking for my cigar box full of marbles, collection of Davy Crockett cards, and our set of Encyclopeida Britannica.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 17, 2014 - 11:52am PT
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"But by 1910 the desire to experiment with a new form may have been more urgent than the impulse to psychological speculation. Then Gide seemed chiefly impatient with the sober limitations of the impersonal realistic novel, and dreamed of his new book as something entirely different, written in a "merry" style.
His experiences as a juror on the Rouen Cour d'Assises in 1912 reminded him once again of the inadequacies of orthodox psychology. But the first pages of his novel are those of a writer willing to be seduced into any amusing adventure; and who will allow nothing, least of all "realism," to interfere with his fun.
The resources of absurdity have no limit, once one has divided society into the shrewd adventurers and the innocent or complacent dupes.
Lafcadio Wluki (silent W & silent I) is the speculative picaro of the tale, but the epic adventures belong to the pious and chaste Amedee Fleurissoire, who sets out from Pau to deliver the Pope-said to be imprisoned in the Castle St. Angelo, with a Freemason reigning in his stead.
Amedee (who had promised a friend and disappointed suitor never to sleep with his wife Arnica) is devoured by bedbugs in Marseilles, by fleas in Toulon, by mosquitoes in Genoa. He arrives exhausted in Rome, to make the classical error of taking a bawdy-house for a hotel, and does not feel qualified to continue on his mission until absolved by a bogus cardinal."
This is such an old paperback that the first half is now broken off from the last half, which is where I am in the tale. But now I seem to have misplaced that half.
I have a Half Tome Mystery to solve...
Seriously.
It's not funny, Tad.
And what's more, either Fleurissoire or his buddy Blafiphas once invented a machine which would weigh their marbles individually. He was a DJ Focus sort at a young age, but none of his 'inventions' were of any practical use.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 17, 2014 - 12:30pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
and really taking leave of one's marbles,
try climbing the Big F. Stone during less than eprfect conditions.
http://cheynelempe.blogspot.com/2011/01/zenyatta-mondatta-el-capitan-winter.html
It was almost forty years ago this week ('74) that DOUG ROSS-HOSS and Y.R.S. TRULY finished the Salathe in winter conditions.
Spring sprung a leak on us. Rather like the way Cheyne got dumped on at the top of Z.M.
We did it more cheaply, but took longer.
I delighted in the wind's force up there more than anything.
Our haul line was like a sail, the wind pulling it WAY out to the right, nearly forming a right angle at times. We would have to high-step in hero loops balancing against it, leaning into the wind, reaching for the next placement; then we'd hammer it home and try to fix a hero on it and keep our slings pulled down so we could step into them. I put a tether on mine so that I could let it fall, if need be, and not lose it, just to be safe.
It was all a lot of extra work but not all that cold, as I recall. This windstorm happened on day five, on the Headwall. It started snowing that afternoon as we got to the bivvy ledge and the wind was mitigated by that ledge, a little fortress in the wild blue.
The clouds would blow across our field of vision from right to left as we faced out into the void. It was still light, so I fixed a pitch and we were glad we did, because it took us forever to get up the next few pitches by noon and off, into a foot and a half of snow across the summit.
"It was definitely a sweet route, but I don't think I'll ever climb it again."--Cheyne Lempe
You never forget this kind of thing, and I can't express how glad I am to still be here remembering.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujo de la Playa
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Mar 17, 2014 - 06:46pm PT
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A photo taken after losing my marbles and finding Herr Braun's black cat and Bachar's white dog lost in the ozone. They were Grateful to have them returned alive, though we all know the manner in which everyone gets outa here.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujo de la Playa
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Mar 17, 2014 - 06:54pm PT
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Let see here 1976 - 1946 = 30. I'd have to say 30 years of age. I didn't know they had color photography then, but the camera does not lie (usually). It's 50 year high school reunion time, so I've dug up a few old things.
EDIT:
Europe 72 it is. That shirt lasted a long time. I finally buried my cat (not shown above) in it in 2000. I guess that's the way alot of us will get outa here - not alive, dressed in a Dead shirt.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 12:29am PT
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That's a great photo of you. It says, "Cat's got my tongue, so I'll just sit here and wait."
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 08:54am PT
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Joan Hemingway wrote a book in 1977 with my mom's cousin Connie Maricich, now Chesnel, titled The Picnic Gourmet.
They were friends from Sun Valley/Ketchum, where Connie owned a "boutique," according to the dust jacket of the book. Connie later married Pierre Chesnel and they ran a toney bakery chain.
She is a UC Berkeley graduate, mother of two boomers, "a wild-foods enthusiast,'
and was married to Herman Maricich, a barrel-jumping skater. (Link at the end of this post.)
Connie now lives in Sedona, and I last saw her in Merced at Mom's funeral.
Joan is the oldest of Jack Hemingway's daughters.
She hung out at Connie's Leadville Espresso House in Ketchum (The Coffee Grinder of today),
as well as on creek banks and mountain tops, concocting menus with her buddy.
http://magicvalley.com/entertainment/arts-and-theatre/ernest-hemingway-granddaughter-displays-art/article_46f4c787-61bb-5fa1-82a2-8a8a28d2a94c.html
Margaux Hemingway, 1954-1996, RIP, the middlest sister, is famously dead.
Mariel is the youngest of Jack's daughters, and is shown here top-roping someplace.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
On the trampoline and slack line in the back yard.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Both clips are from a documentary, Running From Crazy (2013).
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt2451742/
"Millie Wiggins and the West's First Coffee House," Idaho Mtn. Express article by staffer Dick "Funhog" Dorworth.
http://www.mtexpress.com/1999/12-01-99/12-1dlouies.htm
Herman Maricich.
http://magicvalley.com/entertainment/arts-and-theatre/ernest-hemingway-granddaughter-displays-art/article_46f4c787-61bb-5fa1-82a2-8a8a28d2a94c.html
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujo de la Playa
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Mar 18, 2014 - 12:06pm PT
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Speaking of speaking, here is what the guy says in the trip report I came back and retrieved (in the interest of not cluttering up the slipstream with drivel). Does this tell us anything about him?
Gear Notes:
8 screws, set of stoppers, 2 bugaboos, .5-3" camalots, 4" hex, 10 slings. 2 tools. I would recommend two ropes in case of retreat, although we only took one.
who's gonna take away his license to kill?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 02:58pm PT
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Not Dan White nor Dan Z. Brown.
Not Willie Brown nor Red S. Meadow.
Not Jayne Meadows nor Grant S. Pass.
Maybe M. or Q or Darby O'Gill.
From Sun Valley to Mammoth in one swell foop.
No Twinkies allowed.
Joe Brown from MO?
[Click to View YouTube Video]Arthur Kennedy plays the role of "Red" in this vintage Hollywood film.
America, land of the free and home of the brave cowboy.
The country where everyone owns a gun and we are NOT paid to have more babies than we can support;
and so we have to go rob and steal and become guides. (T.Y., Randisi.)
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 03:39pm PT
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Meanwhile, back in Berkeley...
Part of an interview with Brad Lackey, motocrosser.
BR: Does the name Buffalo Breath mean anything to you?
BL: "Buffalo Breath is my good friend Bob Briner. Bob just started a new company, called Colt Tronics, with his son – who happens to be named Colt. They deal in all kinds of the sort of flashing lights you might see at a rave, the kind where you swing them around while taking ecstasy and doing all that weird sh#t.
We use them for my company; we have a couple of Harley rallies at Las Vegas at night, and we sell them out of our booth to kids to twirl in the dark. Buffalo is a long-time friend. He was one of the guys in partnership with me back in the early days, when we had a shop in downtown Berkeley: we were the CZ distributor for California at the time.
Then there were the Buffalo Breath motocross jerseys, which were really rugby jerseys straight out of New Zealand, the type you now find in a Nordstrom store (and in old climbing specialty shops in Berkeley). If we had held on to the rights of those jerseys we could have been real rich, but as usual we got screwed."
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