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tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
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Grahms got all my FA info for the area, and some of my pics. And some of his pics are in my new guidebook for Nor Cal. Share and share alike.
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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While we're talking about bolts (perhaps include lopers, chainsaws, quad runners and straw hats), anyone used Hilti's Kwik Bolt 3 Expansion bolt?
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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I have used them and they are great but... way too pricey. Here's where I get my bolts and they usually ship out quick.
http://www.toolup.com/itw-ramset-red-head/ww-3836.html
Stainless Steel 3/8 X 3-3/4" for $.99 ea!
Go with 3" and their only $.84
I have checked their specs and while not as strong as Power Bolts (Rawl 5 piece) they are still super strong. They are rated to 4,500 pounds shear strength in 6,000 psi concrete. Granite of course is harder. Plus they have a safety margin built in. I figure if it can hold my jeep up in the air its safe to whipper on.
Heres the spec sheet.
http://www.itwredhead.com/trubolt_perf_1.asp
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Or $.82 each for 3/8" x 2.25" SS, for us hand drillers. :-)
http://www.toolup.com/itw-ramset-red-head/ww-3822.html
Too bad I just bought a box someplace else for about $1 each, although that included shipping.
I bought Fixe (4mm thick) hangers in quantity when they were on sale a couple of years ago for about $2 each. I've heard the SS hangers at Pagan Gear were pretty low prices for large quantities. It looks like they are now called Climb Axe, and cost $1.75 each?
http://www.climbaxe.com/climbaxebolthanger.aspx
The Spadout page looks for low prices, and most SS hangers (Fixe, Metolius, Petzl Coeur) are listed at $2.95 each
http://www.spadout.com/c/bolts-and-hangers/
(it does say $1.75 for Fixe on the page, but that links to a plated steel hanger)
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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I'm tired of the Powers 5-piece bolt. Especially when bolting on lead. Can't seem to find a system that keeps them from loosening up when pre-installed with hanger. Last bolt job using them was a near abortion (insert image of humbled, embarassed louse!). The upper sleeve on one of them started to "flower out" as I was hammering in the last bit of length. Granted, they are ideal if you're considering removal later on but I'm over 'em. Thinking Red Head, Fixe or Hilti SS bolts are the way to go.....simplicity.
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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I don't use rawls for anything except for anchors on a ledge. Any kind of bolting on lead scenario just does not jive with rawls. They come apart, and you need two hands to place them after the hole is drilled. Unless you're using hooks, this is usually not possible on vertical terrain.
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Apr 16, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
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Nate -
Have you been in contact with J. Anderson lately?
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tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
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Apr 28, 2009 - 04:00pm PT
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OK, some health advice... Make sure you have insurance if you ride with Grahm on his snowmobile. Psycho. That said... Shuteye in the snow is bitchin' and well worth the effort. It was cool to see High Eagle buried in a snowfield. Still lots of climbing to do. Grahm - post up a pic with some of the white stuff in it.
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Apr 29, 2009 - 11:23am PT
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Tom and Grahm -
Howz Beasore lookin' with snow coverage? Diminishing? Any word from the Frenzy Circus when they will get in there and clear to the Jones Store?
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tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
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... photos by Slater.
I was too baked to walk up to the Talon and take a closer shot.
But it turned out pretty cool anyway I think.
Nice day and a FA on Arkenstone .11b... sweet.
I got my pics up on-
http://slatervision.com/id3.html
Not sure how to post them otherwise I would have.
Feel free anyone who knows.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Salsafest bump?
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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May 12, 2009 - 03:07pm PT
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Hey Tom,
FYI, looking through your photos from your last post. Some amazing shots in there. I saw one that said FA of 'thief in the night'. I'm pretty sure there is a route by this name already on Queens Throne. I'd have to look back at the old Greg Vernon typewriter era guide i have.
In other shuteye news, I will likely be in town for Memorial Day weekend going out with a few amigos. Whomever wants to join is welcome provided you pass the shuteye test...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 12, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
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There is "Thieves in the Night" at Queen's Throne:
Queen's Throne
303. Easy Does It 5.9, 3p
304. Paper Tiger 5.6
305. Thieves in the Night 5.7
306. In the Heat of the Night 5.8
307. Tap-dance Buttress 5.10
308. Snake Eyes 5.12c
309. Catching Some Shuteye 5.11b
310. A Climber's Requiem 5.10c, 3p
311. Midnight Caller 5.11d or 5.10 A1
312. Risin' of the Moon 5.10
313. Black Madonna 5.12a or 5.10a A1
314. Whiplash 5.12a or 5.10b A2
315. Wait Until Dark 5.10c, might be L of Black Madonna - see topo
316. Welcome to Shuteye Ridge 5.11
317. Crown Jewel 5.12b
318. Jeepers Creepers 5.11
319. Scepter 5.6, RFC, 5p
320. Pit and the Pendulum 5.9 A2, 6p, crosses Scepter to L
321. Coronet 5.8, 6p
322. Nipple by Pass 5.8, 3p
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tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
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May 12, 2009 - 06:05pm PT
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Phew... scandal over.
Since it's Hobbit Dome (I'm an English teacher and teach the book and am a fan), "Thief in the Night" is one of the chapter titles where he gives the Arkenstone (the latest new route I did with Grahm - Arkenstone .11b) to the "enemies" to bargain for peace.
Route and name still intact... Thief in the Night 5.8 pro to 3"
Go do it... killer dihedral and natural pro with only two bolts added on face section.
Topo of dome due out in Nor Cal guidebook (due out this summer - see upcoming R&I article issue 179).
ps- you won't be alone Memorial Day... :)
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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May 12, 2009 - 06:34pm PT
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Pretty sure 'Thief in The Night' (.10d) is also a route in The Flatirons.
BTW, anyone know how many 'Smiths' are on the planet?? 1111
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tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
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May 12, 2009 - 08:28pm PT
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ha ha, get over it... it's called Thief in the Night.
Probably not as popular as "Regular Route", or "Tree Route", or the ever popular "Unknown" so it's all good.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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May 13, 2009 - 08:55pm PT
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NOTE: The old trad route "Looking Glass" on Fresno Dome has been bolted by someone (at least 2 bolts next to the initial dandy crack). In the off chance that someone 'round these parts actually did such a thing, the bolts will be removed and holes patched within the week. Bolts appearing on bold and unreported lines has happened on occasion in the region, but on a well known and well protected line is obviously an entirely different matter.
Just an FYI.
Tom - did you hear that Peter Jackson will finally be doing a film of The Hobbit?
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tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
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May 14, 2009 - 12:10am PT
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I didn't hear that. The old movie sucked, but my students still beg me to show it.
It's so bad it's fun to watch. And just for the record, I'm a fan, but I don't dress up as a hobbit for Halloween, have Arwyn poster over my bed, or think I'm part elf. Royal was a fan, so that makes it OK. Plus, since he called that area the Hinterlands, it seemed fitting, the dome's name is my nod to him. Royal is my hero.
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