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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2009 - 09:46pm PT
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Those were great stories, Paul and Steve! Thanks!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Zonerland bump...
Nice shot Rick.
That's one of the routes I have not located yet...
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Apr 11, 2009 - 09:43am PT
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With all the discussion about Submarine Rock, I forgot to mention the most interesting story. When Tim and I did the second ascent, we climbed a crack system alongside an old bolt ladder (self-drills with the hangers and caps removed). So when we got on top, we expected a drilled rappel anchor to simply re-rig and rap off. Instead, when we reached the NW corner of the formation (where the rap anchors are now), there was one partially drilled hole, and a second with a self-drill hanging halfway out- no bolts, hangers, etc. Fortunately we had brought up the drill and established the current anchor. But our bafflement continues (cue the scary music)- just how did the first ascent party get off? Were they picked up by a UFO? (Further inspection of the summit yielded no other natural anchors or hint of descent possibilities. I suppose a Needle's rappel would work, but wasn't very common knowledge in the '70's)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 11, 2009 - 11:27am PT
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Nice mystery! Any possibility that the projecting shield would have been in the position to act as a stop for a Needles rappel? Sounds like a case of hammer failure...or rapture...or ?!?
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supesclimber
Boulder climber
mesa
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Apr 11, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
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Nice shot Dickbob........F-you Scotty.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 11, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
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Anyone out there done Vertigo Spire?
Cool spire in great location.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 12, 2009 - 09:07pm PT
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How many routes on that formation?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 12, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
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Steve, there are two routes on the formation. One pitch 5.7 (guy in the pics is on it) and a two pitch 5.5 called The Grope that goes up the face to the right. I haven't climbed that one yet, but I heard someone's story once about it having some pretty classic Supes manky rock over there. Probably have a line on it in the Canadian Rockies. :-)
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Apr 12, 2009 - 10:03pm PT
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"...Some great climbing areas in Arizona, Queen Creek, however isn't one of them..."
If you like to boulder, it sure is.
Curt
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Apr 13, 2009 - 04:40pm PT
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Queen Creek, much maligned by some that don't know much of it. It has decent bouldering, ask the thousands that partied there at the PBC and other times. Long routes on good rock, sans piranha teeth even. This shot is Smoking the Toad, 5.8, mixed bolts/pro, 150' long and mucho fun Donna leading, Charles belaying:
Here's Pensylenvy (following) and Dan Z on Easy Street, a cool sport route at the end of Hackberry Creek in Lower Devil's Canyon with Pinal Peak in the background. Only a few routes in the photo, some pinnacles await FAs:
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 13, 2009 - 05:24pm PT
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Nice shots Manny!
Lots of reasons to love Queen Creek and many people do!
Falls in Lower Devils Canyon
Bouldering prep for one of the PBCs
Bunch o' folks who think Queen Creek is pretty okay!
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Apr 13, 2009 - 05:30pm PT
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Here's a bit of minor history regarding Queen Creek:
Not sure when the first of anything was done in that area, being Tucson and Flag boys, but sometime around 83/84 I'd been popped for a speeding ticket near Globe while coming back from Sunrise to Tucson.
I talked Steve into going up into that area with me on the day of my "court appearance." I'd been bouldering on some of the limestone and quartzite and thought we might find something bigger.
Very odd, ticket dismissed by the Judge's secretary. "Just call next time and we can take care of it over the phone." Not your typical small town AZ traffic court, let me tell you.
We headed west out of Globe and after coming out the far west side of queen creek we turn around and head back toward the creek. We hadn't seen much appealing to a couple of tradsters but there was one thing so we and parked close to where the road starts to enter the canyon. We humped up the hill to the N towards the most obvious square "tower" where Steve proceeds to lead some 10ish (R?) bit of face/crack which pretty much rained pieces of rock the whole time. Some of them tossed off, some of them skittered off every time Steve put a foot down.
I remember we talked about the place might make for some good sport climbing (just coming into AZ at the time) if you were willing to climb right by the road and clean, clean, clean.
Don't recall if we walked off, rapped off, if it was only one pitch or two or even what Steve named it. Something to do with the ticket I think...
Other than the PBC, I haven't climbed there again. I suppose someday. Naw... If I'm coming back to AZ, I'm heading elsewhere. No offense, but Queen Creek vs Granite Mnt, Flag, Tucson, Stronghold, Sedona, etc... Not much of a decision there. Maybe stuck in Phnx for a weekend ?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 13, 2009 - 06:06pm PT
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Dang Mike... I didn't think I was that boring...
At least the beer was good, eh? :-)
Paul, climbing was going on in the canyon proper back in 1973 with this route (Legal Dihedral). A nice climb, but no so legal anymore as I think it's basically considered off limits by the gummint these days because it's located smack on the side of higway 60.
First climbed by Larry Treiber and partners with a second pitch done by Don O'Kelly and Kent Brock. That was probably some of the earliest (recorded) climbing in the canyon.
Next up were probably most of the lines on the Little England Wall (this is on the south side of the canyon just past the tunnel) were done in 1977 by Don O'Kelly and Kent Brock.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Apr 13, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
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Queen Creek is fun. I don't know what Globe is like these days, but I don't remember it as being a place to show off your lycra tights!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Apr 13, 2009 - 06:18pm PT
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There has been some climber ass kicked in Superior.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Apr 13, 2009 - 10:19pm PT
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Greg:
Tx for the history info.
Larry Treiber, now there's a name that should have come up in this thread a long time ago.
That big guy could really face climb. At Gnt Mnt: Slide Action Traction is one of his routes I believe. Also Slammer Jam, Beaver Cleaver, Green Dagger, Dislocation Buttress, The Nose, Deep Yogurt, Falling Ross, Granite Jungle, Walk Soft, Once in a Blue Moon, Delphina Lightning Ass, and ...
What's the story on him spending the night on the GM Nose (rather than just rapping down ?)
For you Mnt afficianados, Deep Yogurt is one rarely done and obscure climb that is really quite good. Two pitches up and right of Coke Bottle. Might go as one long pitch with a 60 or 70m rope.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 13, 2009 - 10:41pm PT
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You talkin' about this guy?
Having never met Larry, always figured this was a picture of him... can anyone confirm? This shot looks like jugging up Coatimundi.
From the first ascent of the Nose at Granite Mountain.
Check the shot of Treiber the morning after the bivy in question...
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Apr 13, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
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Sure looks like him to me.
And good GOD, those look like Kronehoffers (sp?)
Sorry I ever got rid of mine, they'd make a great pair of bowling shoes.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 13, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
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I'm guessing that's Bill Sewery all fetal style in rain suit.
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