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Mexican Blanket
climber
Eastside
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Aug 12, 2015 - 07:14pm PT
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Dihedral downhill from out of sight?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Aug 12, 2015 - 08:29pm PT
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Cali' Night has a "smooth, natural, flowing sequence"?! Man, I'd have to differ on that statement...
If you go up to that on sight and approach it with a straight forward, natural sequence, it's guaranteed you'll be out of sync and more than likely bleeding, or at least missing some skin, not to mention failing on it! That thing, to me, is one of the most unnatural sequences up there.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Aug 12, 2015 - 08:33pm PT
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Friend, speaking of Go With The Flow, have you been on that...do you know where it is? Get on it if you haven't already! And, how about Werners Wish?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Aug 12, 2015 - 08:40pm PT
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How about BVB on this one (not very many photos out there of this)?
Would love to see Friend crack this one, and a video to boot, even if it IS on TR! Wish I could recover the video I had of Ken Klis and I flailing on this. We'd get into about the same position as Bob is, then come flying out to take the 30+ foot swing out over the chapparal. Never got any further.
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Scattergun
Trad climber
Cardiff By Sea
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Aug 12, 2015 - 09:01pm PT
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R-n-R is a face on the same side as Hamburger Crack, just past up hill. Three bolts and a nice bolt anchor. There is also a crack to the right above some trees that is also nice. Try the bolted climb and you will not be disappointed. Great lead. Weinberg better stay away unless he wants to enjoy climbing it of course. I think if he gave it half a chance as a lead he might actually like what's there.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 12, 2015 - 10:36pm PT
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Rest day
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 12, 2015 - 10:46pm PT
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"Hey Gary, this guy 'Freind' kinda knows Woodson, if you catch my drift, so you might wanna throttle back, yard that foot outta your pie hole, and take a deep breath."
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 13, 2015 - 10:14am PT
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Friend, if you're a true Woodson local, yes, you can id a climb just by the surrounding foilage
Hey Friend!!! Hi, I'm Illusiondweller, uh, I mean Truthdweller, uh I mean Gary, and Jesus is my wingman so I'm cool! Are you cool? Have to seen Go With The Flow? Well? Have you tried it?! Huh have ya have ya? You should try it but it's hard to find, so you'll probably need a true local like me or my bff Chris Lindner to show you! HooooRah! 'murica!
Praise Jesus!! Your new true local BFF, Gary.
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Scattergun
Trad climber
Arizona
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Aug 13, 2015 - 02:24pm PT
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The bolts on that face climb to the right of Hamburger crack on Woodson was put up by me and a friend. This, so called, climb is not in any guide book so it, was as far as us, a good nice 5.10 lead for all the great climbers. It is well worth doing and very good pro. We call it R-n-R. I defy anyone sane to try it and not really like it.I don't like that John Weinberg is calling on people to chop this route. He has no right. This route is not in any guide book and many people are now liking it as a great lead. I think if he gave it half a chance as a lead he might actually like what's there.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 13, 2015 - 02:52pm PT
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You can add my name to that list, pal. It's WOODSON, not your local gym. WTF
Please don't tell me you're some knucklehead from AZ who just rolled up with a Hilti?!
I'm gonna name it P n' P -- Pulled and Patched.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Aug 13, 2015 - 04:09pm PT
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I did the climb as a TR about four years ago from the single 3/8" bolt at the top of the steeper section. It was still there this Spring, along with the lead bolts and new anchors. All shining bright in the sun, not even painted to blend in. It is a nice 15 feet of slab but why not just put lead bolts on everything then. It needs to go away.
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Scattergun
Trad climber
Encinitas
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Aug 13, 2015 - 04:44pm PT
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Sorry wrong state, I am from Encintas, Born in Arizona But spent most time here. for twenty eight years. Am very aware of the bolt wars but I am not out for problems just would like to offer good climbing for fair people. Incidentally there is a new bolt on the Mystery bolt rock and will definitely try it to see if it is good. Eric put the route up and I hope he is the one who put that extra bolt in. I have great respect for Eric Rhodes. He is fair and very respectful.
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Scattergun
Trad climber
Encinitas
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Aug 13, 2015 - 05:02pm PT
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By the way that original bolt on R-N-R is an old rusted leaper. Not at all safe.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Aug 14, 2015 - 12:53am PT
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Wow Bob, sometimes I wonder, I mean, I'm lost sometimes with your remarks. Is it the multiple posts, or what is it? Posting here from Jersey is the closest I can get anymore to Woodson so, pictures and stories are sweet for me. I've seen many of Friend's photos and videos so he is the first that came to mind after posting the guess that climb photos. I'm honestly asking if he's done or tried some of the probems...and, no, I dont know that "he kinda knows Woodson." Sorry, you lost me there. Did you not get the swag you were hoping to get at the 2010 after party, or is it the hypoxic irritability that's making you cranky?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 14, 2015 - 02:12pm PT
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Wow Bob, sometimes I wonder, I mean, I'm lost sometimes with your remarks.
Imagine my dismay.
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Scattergun
Trad climber
Encinitas
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Aug 14, 2015 - 05:40pm PT
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The best way to solve this problem with R-N-R is to have a good number of climbers deicide in a vote. I think that if at least twenty or more climbers climb it in the next two weeks and rate it on: Protection, Direction, Challenge, Fun, etc. that that would be a good test on its purpose and wether or not John has a point. I see it as an opportunity to come together and be a voice.
To the left of the bolts I think is 10-A-B, and to the right maybe 10-C or11, but you decide.
Climb it in the next two weeks and post what you think. I think that rusted bolt on the lip is really intended as a directional. This I think is fair. You decide. Also climb it as a top rope and make a comment.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 14, 2015 - 06:47pm PT
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Pics or nothing happened.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Aug 14, 2015 - 10:53pm PT
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I like on misty mornings how the toilet paper gets all moist and the air is thick with the scent of old poo.
Overhanging rocks are great for:
Boulder problems
shelter from rain
cozy poo places
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Aug 14, 2015 - 11:15pm PT
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That was pre tinder rock
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