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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 11, 2015 - 12:28pm PT
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Here's the topo of the crag. 2 min approach, about 65feet tall. Chains at the top in the alcove. I'll need to install a protection bolt on the 5.11 to make it lead-able. It was my initial line but I back off after I was only able to get in the smallest micro-nut in the seam. Not willing to take a whip on it, instead I went for the hand traverse left and up. The right hand route should only be TR'd. It's a nice way to end the day.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 11, 2015 - 12:59pm PT
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Too bad you don't have a helicopter Ney. That would be the way to stock a climbers camp at the Wilds.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2015 - 02:39pm PT
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Dang. Memorial weekend I have a previous engagement that would be really bad to miss, or I'd head out there. I think you'll enjoy it though Tad.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 11, 2015 - 07:22pm PT
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Tad, your GE only shows the first couple miles of the ridge as far as i can tell. I've located some, but by no means all, of the formations climbed and unclimbed in this section. Some of these crags, especially the close to roadside ones, have seen sporadic visitations by climbers over the years.On others like The Sphinx and The Obelisk we have seen absolutely no sign of previous passage. I'm letting the cat the rest of the way out of the bag on this area to drum up a little more interest and hopefully more available partners to climb there with in the future.
Epyptian Ridge Formations
1. Kitty Wall
2. The Obelisk
3. TheSphinx
4. Crack Wall
5. South Buttress
6. Central Buttress
7. North Buttress
8. The Slab
9. Christman's Pinnacle
Also Tad it looks like Ney is wanting to go there on memorial day weekend.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2015 - 08:14pm PT
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I think its safe to just call it the Kitty wall, given the single pitch, close to parking, easy routes available. Works with the egyptian ridge theme, and i,ve no doubt there are bobcats and/or lions around. Toward the south end someone could probably carve a harder sport single out of it if they wanted.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 12, 2015 - 07:59am PT
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Tad-
We are definitely planning to be there Memorial Day weekend and can show you around - we will probably start with the climbs Rick showed us and those are a great introduction.
Do you have a reasonably high clearance 4WD? (like not a Subaru)
Ney
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 12, 2015 - 08:07am PT
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Eat yer hearts out!
Not a good pic but what do you expect shooting through the driver's window doing 80?
I actually got out of the rig to take this. OK, so it is a bit of a walk,
but it's BIG!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2015 - 09:03am PT
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Your dodge will have no problem up there, if you're careful. There is one tight turn with a couple protruding rocks to get to the main parking area. Rick and Bob have run the ridge in a better rig, and they can speak to the road conditions beyond; but there's a heinous pile of rock immediately upon leaving the main area that you probably don't want to attempt without a second rig. If you walk 100 yds up the road, you'll see what I mean.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 12, 2015 - 05:16pm PT
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There is one tight turn with a couple protruding rocks
Anyone have access to dynamite? Many of us have drills. Those protruding rocks are annoying. I run in the morning on a canal by a hut full of explosives, away from the main maintenance yard. But I have a feeling it is locked.
Tad - I think we'll try to be there all three days, SSM.
And I'm kidding about the dynamite. I know that blasting these days takes a lot of licensing, permits, etc. etc.
That is unfortunate about the pile of rocks. I was looking forward to exploring further up the ridge. We may have a Jeep with us, but it isn't ours so I'm not sure I should be doing any serious four wheeling.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 12, 2015 - 06:53pm PT
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Tad and Ney, with a couple six foot bars, a few shovels, and three or so strong backs the initial obstacle to the campsite could be made traversable by any 4 wheel drive. The other obstacle a few hundred yards north of the campsite would be easier to fix. With these two obstacles out of the way the entire ridge road could be passed in a subaru.
Im going to stock up the camp with firewood this week. With any luck there should be plenty left for memorial weekend. If you keep the fire low and throw some sand on it at the end of night and whenever you leave it should present no problem.
Bob and John are out of it for awhile. I dont have any confirmed partners for cragging this weekend. Anyone out there that can definitely climb this weekend?
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 12, 2015 - 07:52pm PT
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with a couple six foot bars, a few shovels, and three or so strong backs
I've got a six foot bar and a shovel, but the three strong backs will be harder to come by. But I will bring the bar, shovel and a pick just in case.
Tad - we have a van we sleep in and if like last weekend we'll make it most of the way Friday night and will arrive Saturday morning.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 12, 2015 - 07:53pm PT
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Nice John. Which area of Nevada are those?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2015 - 08:27pm PT
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JB- reminds me of a ridge line in the Humboldt range, though i,m betting you,re elsewhere.
Guys, i,m willing to work on that road if we can arrange a camping weekend some time with brenda and the kids, plus someone to help her watch them. I,l bring a bar.g and a winch and comealong. We might spend a day
on the road and one on the rock.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2015 - 09:19pm PT
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2nd at the top of the hill. That third left in the sharp hairpin just over the top takes you to Laine's new routes.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 13, 2015 - 04:56am PT
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THERE IS A KITE FLYING FOOL THAT IS A MASTER ROAD BUILDER!!
A climber of old school bold style and well versed in the rude demeanor of all manner of rabble .
His hardening in the fires of the gang of boozy Czech's of the gunks in the 80's, he is now in the Big Mike Zone.
He was good friends, well traveled and respected, by everyone that gave him a chance.
The things
He Has Been the major hands on builder of are amazing! Highway off ramps in Utah and curving walls of blocks as large as big as SUV's. He also spent
15yrs building trails and roads for The Monk Preserve.(wilderness builds)
I sure drool at the looks and stuff! Your get it done attitude, that stoke that climbers bring when things fall together.
Good luck and BooYHA for what ever gets done, just getting' out there is great !
Good on ya'!
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 13, 2015 - 07:26am PT
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If I'm free Memorial Day wknd, I will show up with 4 x 4 rig for day trip. Can't camp
right now, Wife recovering from bad dog bite, needs commisurating (sp).
Will also bring firewood and breaker bars, winch, shovels etc.
Bob Pinckney
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 13, 2015 - 08:28am PT
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How come nobody liked my rocks? I was actually hoping somebody had the beta on them.
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