Chipping culprit filmed in NY

I think a heartfelt "I fuked up BAD" from Ivan would be a good start.

The preserve needs to call a meeting about this as soon as possible, and we need to call them and express our concern so that they realize that we care about it and call such a meeting. There has to be some laws for this kind of thing. The Preserve has banned people from the Gunks before. I think they should have a meeting with people like this, find out who else knows about it, and who else is doing it, and ban all of them from the Gunks for at least three years so they can think about it, after which they can put up a bond for $1000.00. And then after 10 years, then perhaps the bond could be reduced to a lesser amount. If we do nothing the clipping will continue, it seems that it is an unstoppable habit now, like some kind of addiction.

In the past I have seen people using hooks and aid climbing, chipping off holds at the Uberfall, I told the ranger about it sitting not far off, he said there was no policy to enforce. I picked up a rock and told them that I was going to knock them out if they did not get off the rock. This is why there is a part of the hold missing on one of the Gill problems.

But I am not perfect either, but I can say that I have learned the hard way. As far as I know I was the *first* to have chipped holds. In the middle of the Near Trapps I pried a rotten piece of rock out of a crack with the end of a Chouinard hammer so I could place a small friend. This written up in a climbing magazine, [Pox in Vulgaria -- The Profit of Impurism A Commentary by Mark Robinson. This article was featured in Climbing Magazine in 1977.] where I was rightly publicly humiliated and ostracized by the climbing community. And I am very sorry about it, even to this day. Thankfully, I have been forgiven.

So, having been forced to do a lot of soul searching and thinking about the subject back in the 70's, I can say that I came to realize that, this is not the right thing to do. Sculpting rock the same way people do in a climbing gym is wrong, even if it means only using a crow bar, even if it is on Twilight Zone. If it is OK to chip in one place, it is OK to chip in another, and then there is no end to it. The reason we come up to the Gunks is to get away from this kind of stuff, isn't it? So I hope we are going to try and put a stop to this now.

Because Ivan is at least making his own climbs, not taking down other peoples routes using hooks and chipping off holds because he is aiding free climbs. Like those two bumbling fools I yelled at on Uberfall boulder problems who put up a fight.

The time to voice an opinion actually was a long time ago, but you guys said nothing. Can we really complain now?, this kind of behavior has been grandfathered in. Ivan is a result of the environment you created. "Because sentence against an evil work is not executed speedily, therefore the heart of the sons of men is fully set in them to do evil. Though a sinner do evil an hundred times, and his days be prolonged , yet surely I know that it shall be well with them that fear God, which fear before him: But it shall not be well with the wicked, neither shall he prolong his days, which are as a shadow; because he feareth not before God."

Who thinks it's a good idea to go back up on Twilight Zone and put back a stone in that hole they chiseled out and make it as it was before? No bucket, just a little crack big enough to get a vertical edge.

Let him who is without sin cast the first stone!

After all, it is a Gunks problem

Why? Well first of all, when you are 30’ in the air and holds break as you go, I can imagine it’s not a lot of fun after a while. That’s something you just can’t allow to happen, if you want to make a career out it. Eventually you will find the need to test out what there is before you climb, you may not want to be making a potential human sacrifice every time you climb. Eventually you will have kids, and who wants to go to the hospital only because of some ethic. You have responsibly, now you have to provide for a family. It’s not very smart to say the least. So, you lower down, you find some loose stuff, and you pull it off first. I am sure land owners are not going to want to hear fire trucks and ambulances any more than they are going to want to hear someone hammering in their woods, but which is worse? And in NY the property owners pay, it’s not the same as California. Now, in the process things can happen, the rock can break any number of ways. For example, in that video I noticed whoever it was, hammering on something, it was hollow. Would you suggest getting up on there first and falling off with the block? After a while you are going to learn to remove it first. And if it breaks off the wrong way when you are hanging on it, with a bad edge because you pulled on it the wrong way, then it would in fact have been better off if you had cracking it off short with a hammer to begin with. So what I am saying is this, that it is just this kind of environment that lends itself to hammers and chisels in our day and age.

That’s something you just can’t allow to happen, if you want to make a career out it.

(Please look at me, please respond to me ... me, me, me, ME! Please stop posting on Supertopo and post on MY very own thread. Please make the thread I started longer!)