Going back to Cali!

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Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
I heard you went bouldering!!
Katiekorn

Sport climber
May 16, 2014 - 10:29am PT

Andy and I climbed snake dike on Wednesday... Here is Andy at the top

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2014 - 10:35am PT
Ya Katie!! Nice! Glad to hear you guys got it done!! So cool to meet you girl! Keep climbing! You have the right attitude to go far in this crazy sport!

Tell that fvcking limey who just fingered me, Thanks for everything and hopefully i'll see both of you guys in squamish soon!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2014 - 02:08pm PT
Friday was a day I had waited for a long time. My toe was still hooped but there was no way I wasn't going to climb Royal Arches that day.

Ever since i had looked at the topo and read the history of this climb I had secretly lusted after it. I know it's only 5.7 and there is a lot of fourth class on the lower half, but it's in such an amazing setting and i love running up easy climbs!

Me at the fourth pitch belay

After i finished this pitch i brought Andy up and the next party wasn't far behind. After Andy set off i chatted with the leader a bit and asked if we were slowing them up.

"Naw, it's all good" he replied "I'm just stoked i can keep up with a party of two with these two followers!"

I told him it probably wouldn't be hard to keep up with a crack noob and a paraplegic... Lol

Here he is on the next pitch.

When we reached the next belay he asked if i was Big Mike. I said "Ya, who are you??"

"The other Ed H" he replied.. Obviously he put 2 and 2 together... Lol

We made good time until the pendulum where we ran into an extremely slow party.

When Andy got to the belay, i said "it's lunchtime buddy!" So we ate on the nice ledge.

The views up there are nothing short of stunning..
Other ed h reaching the traverse belay.

Andy on the second to last pitch before the raps.

What a day! Can't wait to take Sandra up it and hit the pools next time!!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
May 16, 2014 - 02:24pm PT
Sweet cali run Mike!

Chuck is straight up a badass wyde climber, glad he got to get on the "hard" stuff.

Dude is solid.

Badass!@
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2014 - 02:32pm PT
Thanks Josh! Chuck needs to get out more!! Maybe you can help him with that?? ;)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2014 - 06:06am PT
Just got home about an hour ago.. What a trip man! Capped it off today with an afternoon at Index!

Thanks Mari!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
May 17, 2014 - 11:13am PT
Just got home about an hour ago.. What a trip man! Capped it off today with an afternoon at Index!
Thanks Mari!

Mari said she enjoyed it too.

Supertopo (and rec.climbing before it) may have a few a-holes under its umbrella, but it's an incredible place nonetheless. No better example of that than your trip Mike. Pretty much everyone you climbed with and hung out with over the last two weeks was someone you had connected with right here.

And its not just you. I think most of us here have a circle of friends we've met through ST or the Wreck. Any of us can say, "Damn, I really would like to take a trip to __." And no matter where that place is, we'll be covered for food, shelter, and partners the whole way. And many of those we stay with and climb with will turn into friends we'll keep for the rest of our lives.

/end sermon/

You're probably going to sleep in till mid-afternoon, so I'll post a couple shots of the climb you did yesterday with Mari. Roger's Corner is one of the few moderate routes at Index (5.9? 5.8?) and gets a lot of traffic, so I'm glad you guys got on it without having to wait in line. And she said she hauled your tired bones up the Breakfast of Champions finish. So now you've had a taste of "Index 10a", too.



See ya next weekend.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2014 - 07:12pm PT
Cool Ghost! Thanks for those pics. Sandra used to give me so much crap about all the time i spent here before my injury. It seems now she's realizing just how well it's payed off! :)

My trip may be over but the "Live" trip report continues! Ok, i know it's not quite the same as when it was actually live, but i get much more enjoyment out of my vacation this way! :)



After out return from RA Andy and i sauntered over to Katie's camp to invite her out for some cragging, and she produced Frumy's Ried guide for us to peruse and find the perfect spot. We ended up settling on Pat and Jack's because of the terrain as well as the lack of approach for my poor toe.

I was pretty tired and very little urge to lead anything. Luckily my ropegun Katie decided that Boneheads 10b needed to be climbed.

after we toproped the bottom of Babble On 10a.

How the heck do i climb this thing Mike??

Damn this thing is tiring!!


Unknown climber on the classic Knuckleheads 10b


Is there any sh!tty views in the valley???

classic zone. I loved it!!!
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
May 17, 2014 - 07:35pm PT
Hey Big Mike!

Pleasure climbing with you and Andy on Royal Arches! You got the stoke man! Would love to get a tour of Squamish someday!

Ed
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2014 - 07:44pm PT
Come on up Ed! Just lemme know! I have more bangers of you too, but i'm saving them for the real tr!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2014 - 08:38pm PT
Sunday was my last day in camp four, so Justin graciously drove into the valley to pick me up.

Hanging at Camp 4



I was pretty bagged so packing took too long and i didn't have time to do the alcove swing like we planned.. Doh!!

Justin showed up with his brother Jordan and a puppy he'd just found.

We stopped at a dope brewpub we went to on the way home from the park.
The pano squished the poor waitresses face..

What was the name of that place Justin?
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
May 18, 2014 - 09:05pm PT
such a long, long time to be gone,
and a short time to be there.[Click to View YouTube Video]
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2014 - 09:21pm PT
I know.. It's like a dream already!!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 18, 2014 - 10:20pm PT
Rad.
All the way around, rad.

All those folks you climbed with, all the locations...
Ghost said it well.

A big tip of the hat to you Big Mike.
Someday bro.


Which reminds me of the name of a massive yacht I saw in a harbor once...
-SOMEDAY CAME-

After your injury Mike, I'd say someday came.

Thanks for sharing.
this just in

climber
north fork
May 18, 2014 - 10:36pm PT
South Gate Brewing Company in Oakhurst. Great food and beer.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 18, 2014 - 10:40pm PT
Awww man, I hate being the last post on a page!

Jefe said
Rad.
All the way around, rad.

All those folks you climbed with, all the locations...
Ghost said it well.

A big tip of the hat to you Big Mike.
Someday bro.


Which reminds me of the name of a massive yacht I saw in a harbor once...
-SOMEDAY CAME-

After your injury Mike, I'd say someday came.

Thanks for sharing.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2014 - 10:45pm PT
I know right??? It's all been worth it. Breaking my back has opened so many doors for me and it's opened my eyes at the same time. It's put me so much more in touch with my body it's insane. I'm more knowledgable about it rather than before when i didn't even know what my TA was much less use it consciously.

Next up, shuteye!
Jeremy Ross on the right.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 18, 2014 - 10:49pm PT
Glad you had a kick ass trip, too bad we didn't get to climb. Next time you are around we will actually have to schedule a few! Seems like you guys are fun to be around :)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2014 - 10:54pm PT
I try V! LOL Sounds good.

Thanks Justin!
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