Guiding Everest is not morally defensible

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scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
May 24, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
Has anyone mentioned Stupid Hats yet?
Any news of their expedition?
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
May 24, 2012 - 04:41pm PT

Unfortunately, getting the end result by any means possible is murdering the journey for many others. As long as there people willing to pay for the results, other people will help supply the means.

Hopefully this is one of those tipping points where many will take a step back and ask themselves "Do I really want to be a part of this?"

There are so many other beautiful mountains with fantastic routes. Is the "tallest" really that important? Maybe Freud was right.

I don't have a problem with Guiding. People make their own decisions based on what they can justify to themselves. If you guide someone, knowing they aren't qualified, that is indefensible in my book. If someone goes off on their own and gets themselves killed based on lack of skill and experience, that is one thing. If you facilitate it for money, that is another thing. If you agree to take someone up Everest who has no high mountain experience, then abandon them to die, how do you justify it? Because you told them they could die? Might be hard to sleep at night after that.

This is more about bolting, but I think the concept still applies.

http://alpineinstitute.blogspot.com/2009/12/murder-of-impossible.html


Prayers for a safe return regardless.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
May 24, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
Getting attacked via emails from a dude defending a chick who is a confusing father f*cker was pretty funny.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
May 24, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
^^^^ Michael who and what are you referring to? ^^^
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
May 24, 2012 - 05:21pm PT
Some dude got his ePeen all up in a bunch and emailed me about how sweet some girl on the forum was and blah blah blah. All I said was she is a confusing mother f*cker. He told me she couldn't f*ck women so I changed it to father f*cker.

I think he's tryna' hit it.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
May 24, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
Seriously at this point it would actually be better for everyone if they put Trams to the top.

Electric lines and a nice pressurized hut.

The real climbers would still climb and the rest can be on top of the world for a handsome fee. Less than current expedition but still possibly very profitable with volume.

No trash up easy to get current trash and bodies off.

I'm actually serious. It could be a cash cow for Nepal.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
May 24, 2012 - 05:26pm PT
What would be the best way to assemble a pressurized ski lift at 29,000 feet? I doubt heavy equipment would work up there, and you're gonna need a lot of sherpas to haul up those 45 foot, 6 ton steel support structures. Why not just take a hot air balloon to 30,000 feet? Sheesh.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
May 24, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
electricity and winches. Gives you unlimited oxygen. It would be a hell of a construction project.

Another possibility might be easier.

Drill a tunnel to the top with electric rail or elevators.

Anyone with serious experience able to give a napkin level design plan and cost estimate?

Pie in the sky gets new meaning?

----------


Donini will now delete the thread..lol

He has a thing about cables..let alone a tram I suppose :)
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
May 24, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
Is the mountain stable enough for a full on tunnel and elevator system?
murf02

climber
NYC
May 24, 2012 - 06:44pm PT
Was guiding Shriya Shah up Everest morally defensible?

Other than her determination to succeed, she was doomed the second she made the decision to follow through on her childhood dream. She did nothing right and its all documented. Forget that the only mountain or trek or climb was 20' jug laps at a local climbing gym, Shriya was on a year long photo opportunity. The guy who runs the trekking company that she paid a large sum of money should be locked up or even better take a number at the Hillary Step (151 would work).

She's not the first person with a dream of "standing on top of the world", but most will have some what of a clue. You're paying all that dough why not bag a few peaks and a volcano or two in South America; technical training on Rainier; break trail on snowshoes for a week all at the very least. Shriya put on a weighted pack and hopped on the treadmill.

I would like to see her family use Shriya's death too possibly save others but from what I'm reading it’s the same old cliché and her death from the cheap seats seems meaningless.

RIP Shriya Shah

Sorry for the rant but I watched her interview again with the local Canadian news. It seems the second you tell people "I'm climbing Everest" you become something your not.

michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
May 24, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
I'm never climbing Everest.





Sh*t's above my pay grade.
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
May 24, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
What is all this loose talk? You don't think surfers were not righteously offended when this appeared?


Heels and outfit OK+ to OK+++. Keep that boat out of the line-up.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
May 24, 2012 - 09:22pm PT
Story on the NBC evening News actually recognized that the crowds have now become an additional objective hazard.
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
May 25, 2012 - 01:22am PT
Why is she still wearing stripper heels? What "athlete" does that?
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
May 25, 2012 - 01:30am PT
http://bleacherreport.com/articles/1108917-the-25-hottest-female-athletes-in-heels/page/5

Sorry couldn't help myself.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
May 25, 2012 - 01:42am PT
those heels look like a good way to break an ankle.

barefoot or sticky rubber!
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
May 25, 2012 - 12:26pm PT
Guide Companies that accept, allow and encourage inexperienced but wealthy trophy hunters, who cant put on their own crampons or handle disconnecting and reconnecting Jumars, to attempt Everest are not morally defensible.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
May 25, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
Story on the NBC evening News actually recognized that the crowds have now become an additional objective hazard.

Here is the link to the NBC story that Piton Ron spoke about:
http://video.msnbc.msn.com/nightly-news/47558865/#47558865
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
May 25, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
Good piece Plaidman.

When overcrowding is killing more people than objective hazards, something has to change.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
May 25, 2012 - 10:07pm PT
From the Ueli Steck interview at http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=20842

Explorersweb: Are you going for a speed attempt?

Ueli: No. I'm happy to reach summit without O2. Speed ascents on this route are just not my thing. There are so many factors involved that are not really about climbing. What's the point of running up a fixed line? Waiting until sherpas have fixed the mountain, and then myself "the superman" running up the prepared pist? That's not climbing to me, just a marketing gimmick.

And from where do you start the clock? Basecamp? It takes 20 minutes for me to cross BC from one end to the other. Or do you start at the Khumbu Icefall. Where exactly does that begin? I took me two-and-a-half hours from BC to camp 2. I thought it good exercise, like going for a run on a trail.

And is it OK to have gear stashed? Seriously, I could leave my expedition boots at C2 so I could run from BC to C2 in running shoes. I could change into a light mountain boot up to the south col, where I'd put on my climbing boots and change to a down-suit I had left there.

Then of course I would need to have food and water in each camp. And have people and sleepingbags ready in case of emergency. How do you pass people, or deal with the problems that come up if you have to wait?

Explorersweb: Last week we interviewed Pato on the north side, he said he'll ask people to let him by on the ropes...

Ueli: That's exactly why I'm not going for a speed ascent. I don't like to disturb other people. If I can pass I will of course, but if it's not possible I'll have to wait. I don't have the right to push other people around just because I'm Ueli Steck...

Explorersweb: So what's your plan?

Ueli: Have fun climbing.
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