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cuvvy
Sport climber
arkansas
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I wonder if people who spray about their solos, need that spray to make them feel worthy?
Is it a psychological advantage for them to spray?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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I don't know about advantage over any existing skill and ability, but there is a raw excitement that wells up in the human spirit that says "Wow, I just did this. I can't hardly believe it. If I can do it, you can too. Now get a look at these and get out there and do something."
If that excitement can be carried forward it can elevate your own game. I don't think that's about self gratification necessarily/perjorative ego. It can be about a shared experience and wanting to keep living it for as long as possible with others that have had that experience.
And if it is a little ego after the fact, big deal. A little ego boost is good for those of us without huge ego.
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david wilson
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Very impressive sends of Widow's Tears - both solo and roped. What a proud line in a great setting up there.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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The problem is his ego is already too big, Munge.
Do you know me personally? Your judgement is based on hearing about what I do online. You don't know my motivations, goals, fears, what I do aside from climbing or my life story. Personally, I value what my friends say, none so far accused me of becoming a d#@&%e. What I do is really irrelevant. It is not 5.15s that I send. Or 14s or 13s. I like to go deep into the Sierra, climb, have fun and share it with others in order to add positive stoke to the community. In the TRs I don't bang my chest and say I do something inf*#kingcredible. It is not. People established routes far harder, far better and far closer to the road. I pick the leftovers. Happy? It is what it is and I do my best to share the mistakes too.
It would be hard to get my ego out of control. As I started to climb more and more, I begun to be exposed to people that climb like beasts, are way more fit and way more efficient than me. I REDPOINT low 5.12 on my best day, if I work the crap out of it. It is nothing to be proud of in the modern world of climbing. Some of my friends do crazy link ups, I can't imagine doing. Some send routes on the Hulk I dream of to follow one day. Some are sending El Cap free. I can't do any of this sh#t, now. But I do what I do and enjoy the climbing in general. So as I said, it is hard to get a giant ego for someone average. I used to have severe asthma most of my life, so being able to get out and do my best is a blessing.
As far as the Bubbs Creek wall. It took me forever to complete it GU, partly because it was hard for me and partly because I was hand drilling. AVERAGE of TWO pitches a day. There were days when I was able to only complete one. When it went up, it had about 60 bolts total or less, way fewer than the Samurai Warrior next door (which has over a hundred). I had fixed lines on the bottom half and added more bolts over time to pitches I worked on TR to free, so that others will have a chance at onsighting. I also bought nice stainless rings for over a 100$ and made the route rapellable from great anchors from like 4/5ths of the way up. I put in close to 1000$ in bolts, plus the rap rings and almost 30 days of work on it. So the final bolt count was close to a 100 because I wanted it to be a climb that others would want to go back on and have a fair chance to onsight. I put a lot of hard work and love into it really. I did get a permit for MOST of the outings to Bubbs. Not all, I will admit. But rangers are there and I did not want to drive for 6 hours one way and be turned around on the hike. I did not get a permit at times because we had a dawn start so that we can climb on the wall that same day after the approach. Ranger stations was closed.
As I say to all others, if you have a personal problem, email me. I'd be happy to meet you face to face, answer your questions, have a fist fight or go climbing. (xxvitaliyxx@yahoo.com) It is easy to sh#t on someone, it is much harder to put up a route like the Emperor for others to enjoy or to free solo the Tears onsight without knowing what condition the ice is in. It is the last post I will make on this thread to defend my motivations to post stuff. It is ridiculous. When my trip reports talked about climbs like the Fishhook arete, no one gave a f*#k, no people get uncomfortable.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Biggest petpeve on here is when people trash anyone who "sprays."
That's the best part about supertopo, I want everyone to spray!
Please spray stories and pictures all over this place!
Also, Vitaliy likes to share, don't discourage it because you missunderstand it. If you want everyone else to share their stoke then you share your own. And obviously it's not bad to get a pat on the back every now and then as a side effect :)
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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I met Vitaliy in real life. No ego detected, but his love of climbing was apparent. He's doing things the right way and that's why his TRs are so much appreciated.
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WBraun
climber
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I'd be happy to meet you face to face, answer your questions, have a fist fight or go climbing.
LOL
The thing I thought at time I met Vitaliy was ....
Sh!T .... I wish this guy was around when I was desperately seeking partners and coming up empty hand forced to go free soloing instead years ago.
Vitaliy's got the stoke, drive and the stonemaster vibes .... totally cool dude.
Keep on trukin Vitaliy and fuk idiots like 661climber.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
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Keep on trukin Vitaliy and fuk idiots like 661climber.
Word. And. Then. Some.
Susan
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Too bad such an epic thread took this turn.
Vitaliy looks like you're gonna have to bust a nut and produce a trip report.
Hopefully the haterz will gravitate there instead of here
;-)
Ballsy solo. A tip of my hat to you bud.
Edit
That's what you get for being a spraylord ;-)
vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Thanks for the kind words, didn't expect so much. Sorry the thread about the Yosemite Ice is turning into let's talk sh#t about people who have climbed yosemite ice.
Vitaliy looks like you're gonna have to bust a nut and produce a trip report.
I need time for this experience to settle in.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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It's all Dans fault for not posting more ice pics. Also don't get mad at the droid, he can't help it. I love the picture of that 5.7 hand crack, looks fun.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Vitaly and all other climbers: Keep posting your adventures! I love reading about your climbs, with partners or solo. I love the pics (great stuff wildincognito!)I find it all very inspiring and motivating. To hell with the negativity. Vitaly, I can't wait to read about your experience and who knows we may even climb together one day!
Chappy
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Keep it up Vitaliy, you're fueling the stoke fire for the rest of us.
Haters gonna hate. Brush it off and keep crushing.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Hahaha! Excellent Vitaliy! Patty told me about your solo. You continue to inspire the both of us to just get out there.
Uncontrolled ego is not one of the phrases that come to mind when thinking about him. Nice guy with big vision is more like what I think.
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climblight
Mountain climber
Northern NV
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Like I said before - congrats. Also like I said before, your motivation is, well, motivating. Personal story. A partner and I planned to climb WT about 10 yrs ago. (I think). I didn't sleep at all the night prior. I called him about 2am to bail, I could hear the sigh of relief over the phone.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Sh!T .... I wish this guy was around when I was desperately seeking partners and coming up empty hand forced to go free soloing instead years ago.
Vitaliy's got the stoke, drive and the stonemaster vibes .... totally cool dude.
Keep on trukin Vitaliy and fuk idiots like 661climber.
BAM!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Werner wanted a belay slave, I see. Seriously I'd be stoked to top rope his warmups if I was around than. Those guys were the real deal when it came to rock craft of North America. Happy to be part of this forum and read about some of the stories. This forum allowed us all to experience the Valley Uprising and than some, before the movie came out.
Thank you all again for kind words, but please stop. It makes me uncomfortable to read all this. All I want now is some time away from the forum. Sick of seeing my name mentioned. I don't want to feel the need to check this thread for nothing else than the ice updates.
Please, move on to talking about ice. What I did was one ascent. I had my fun. Now, let's move on to talking about upcoming cold snaps. At least I hope for more cold snaps. Climbing ice in yosemite could be a real pleasure.
The Sentinel Falls looked really good with the upper pitches mega fat. Will post a photo soon. The bottom had a stream running in the middle. If that stuff freezes, I think it would be a mega outing. Hope it does. Hope to have a partner! :)
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fosburg
climber
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How do you like those Cobras V? I sold mine after one season because they'd sometimes shift when choking up onto the secondary handle.
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Highlife
Trad climber
California
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Vitaliy's an awesome dude. Had an amazing time when I climbed with him. I cant believe people would crap on him just because he talked about a climb he did on a climbing website. That's low even for this place.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Vitaliy,
Thanks for the pics and the stories. I used to do loads of ice climbing and dig the adventure and spirit you show in your posts. When I see the pic of a tool placement in ice, i wonder if it had thad that good secure feeling, or was it sketchy and demanded serious mind control.
Ignore the idiots and spin the yarns, please.
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