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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Greg-
I'll buy you a tall cold one at the next HH! I'm sure you'll use your right arm to lift it.
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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Hot Dog Grug, way to go! I thought the H2O2 Hot tub was a no brainer, but nooo, you had to do it your way and it seems well you did, maybe. Did you guys make smores?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 09:11pm PT
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You're on, Brokedown,and thanks, Steve.
Sorry, for bumping my own thread, but the whole experience (plus the three beers I just had) has got me thinking about wide crack ratings. As I understand it, Lucille was originally rated 5.13(a) (by Jaybro and Mike), but is considered possibly as easy as 5.12b (following Craig Luebben's flash?). Mountain Project has it at 5.12d, the just-older Vedauwoo guidebook calls it 5.12b, while the new guidebook, which seems to downgrade everything else, has it back at 5.13a/b. That's a relatively big spread. What's going on?
Personally, I think some of this stuff is like comparing apples with oranges. Lucille is a true squeeze chimney - not an offwidth sensu stricto (I always wanted to use that term in a sentence (hopefully I got it right)). Although I didn't quite finish it, I'm pretty sure that the first armbar you get would be in the 5.9 or 5.10 section at the very top. The way you attack this is completely different than, say, Big Pink or Twilight Zone or any number of "true" offwidths. The techniques are sufficiently different with respect to requirements (a left-side-in armbar actually requires a lot of "pull" from the right arm, whereas a left-side-in squeeze chimney only requires the right arm for stabilization), that I would say you pretty much need separate rating categories for squeeze chimneys and offwidths.
Time to eat...that is all.
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Prod
Trad climber
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what are you eating?
When are you going at it again?
Prod.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 09:28pm PT
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Wine, so far. That's all I can get from Elizabeth.
I dunno know about another try. This whole experience was so fun and magical, that another try at it would almost seem vulgar.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Nice!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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not like there's a whole lot of comps.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 10:06pm PT
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Couldn't help but notice that we were in the same position at this point. Craig Luebben
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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HAHAHAHAAHA, that is awesome!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Greg
The next HH a beer's on me too!!!!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 10:23pm PT
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As far as that last post of mine. Let's not forget...Craig did it. I didn't.
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WBraun
climber
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Looking at the last photo up thread it looks like you have it in the bag.
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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You have earned your wine, Sir. I hope it is a fine vintage.
Greatness of human spirit: launching into the improbable, the inconceivable...
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 10:34pm PT
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I both ran out of gas and made a tactical error. The tactical error was giving up my heel-toe for a face hold that I subsequently "missed" on my first try to smear it. I knew right away that I erred and that I was GOING DOWN.
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Wen
climber
Jackson, WY
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We were out of town this weekend, and I couldn't wait to get back to a computer today to get your update! What a great story to follow...you've inspired many no doubt.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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That mag photo is by Craig of Andy, who told me he (also) failed on the attempt photo-Ed though he got it subsequently.
Nobody has even mentioned Grug bashing his own head in with a # 6, drawing blood and everything!
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WBraun
climber
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Bummer to get shut down that close.
I bet thinner people can get just enough farther inside to gain a slight advantage?
Good effort, you'll be visualizing your errors and doing it .....
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 11:22pm PT
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Yeah, those thinner people...who needs 'em! Appreciate the encouragement, Werner.
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Mimi
climber
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That is so sick. A masterful effort, Greg. Sorry about the shoulder. More chondroitin! Glad you had so much fun.
Very interesting the question you posed about the rating beng far flung. Won't reach a quorom on that thing anytime soon. LOL! Such a nice test piece having such a range for you wide specialists.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Way to give it a go man! Strong effort!
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