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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2011 - 11:44am PT
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Gary, yes, the arete is the same in both pictures. Figure it out yet, or at least the boulder?
Donny, I knew you would know. I purposly kept your problem out of the picture to avoid clues though. The more outta sight outta mind the better anyway, as far as I'm concerned. And yes, pretty hard moves, hard enough that it seems a low percentage problem even knowing how to do it. You've done the arete. The arete is so good, but it's well guarded, eh? The arete is well worth doing even if one pulls past the dime stuff.
Thanks Johann. Just like being at Rubidoux. Hmmmmm.....
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Feb 17, 2011 - 12:53pm PT
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Great job Darrell. Talk about impeccable rock, that stone is bullet.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Feb 17, 2011 - 01:58pm PT
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Awesome Darrell!! Way to take advantage of the weather window.
I don't remember the beta for Aids Victim (what's new?). My first time on it (as a warm-up) a couple of years ago was a complete shut down. Then a few months ago I got it first try and haven't been back since. Pretty cool how Woodson is an index for my progression as a climber. I bet others share a similar story.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 18, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
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Alright, it appears I'm the only one that doesn't know what that arete is. My first impression is that it's BIG, but then I thought maybe its a perception problem so then, the reverse layback on TV Screen came to mind, but the tree branches and orange textured rock ruled that out. And, once you tell me , I'll probably still be clueless for there's a lot I haven't heard of!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 18, 2011 - 06:20pm PT
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Edit: Okay, wait...I've been veiwing these last few posts on my blackberry and now I'm on my spouses laptop and things are MUCH MUCH CLEARER (imagine that)! I've never really looked at what I'm about to say, but is the photo of the left side of the Airstream boulder? That texture really looks like whats around the Airsteam seam.
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
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Feb 18, 2011 - 06:27pm PT
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Gary, three of the routes on that rock are about deporting, slapping n birthdays.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 18, 2011 - 06:42pm PT
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Okay...the left arete of Slap You Silly...would that be Deport Jonny or another name?
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Pointbrk
Boulder climber
Encinitas, Scal
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Feb 19, 2011 - 10:44am PT
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Congrads Darrell! Should have called me for a belay. What shoes did it go in? Did it get a name?
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Pointbrk
Boulder climber
Encinitas, Scal
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Feb 19, 2011 - 10:44am PT
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Me and Matt Beebe did the next couple of ascents of Skid Row. Excellent!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Feb 19, 2011 - 11:39am PT
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Hey Gary, don't see yer name on the Josh Gig yet.....get it on there and we'll see ya there???
Peace
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Feb 19, 2011 - 05:09pm PT
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Great day up on the hill yesterday until we got rained on. Checked out Henny's new route on the IMAX boulder. Awesome and insta-classic! Bullet stone and super f-ing hard as usually for Henny. My tips are purple today.
We then got on "Forever" but within minutes all our tips were thrashed and unusable.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 21, 2011 - 02:09pm PT
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Is that Woodson get-together still happening March 19-20, Sat-Sun?
Ron, any updates?
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Feb 21, 2011 - 10:57pm PT
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I went for a walk up the hill today and met up with some of Woodson's
"Young Guns"
Hanging out with them I admired their technical skills, enthusiasm,
and dedication. But above all their comradary and genuine love of the game.
Mark and Doug working on "Top Secret File"
Eliot and Nicole working "Korean Cowboy"
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Feb 22, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
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Thanks for the kind words Rick! And it was great to meet you up on the hill. Let's get up there again soon.
We had a huge crew up there yesterday. Definite good times on the hill. But, it was also quite a humbling day. The other guys made lots of progress on many hard problems.
Here's Greg on Syncopation...
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Feb 22, 2011 - 04:53pm PT
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great meeting you Rick!
and thanks for the photo Eliot,
Doug and Mark, finished us off by setting up Stealth Bomber as well. Stellar day!
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Feb 22, 2011 - 08:06pm PT
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Nice job on Syncopation Greg!
It was great hanging with you all.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Feb 22, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
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Did anyone actually send anything? Greg looks solid on Syncopation.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2011 - 12:25am PT
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Wow, looks like I missed a motivated day with excellent weather. Pretty cool, lots of good problems starting to see traffic. And good pictures to boot. It's enough to make one chomp at the bit to get back up there.
I overlooked a couple of questions earlier. Pointbrk - shoes: Phantoms. I like the softer shoes for the arete smearing, even if that isn't the crux. It's enough work getting there (feels like a route) that I wanted the odds on the arete.
Yes, the problem has a name. "Welcome to Rubidoux".
hehe
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2011 - 12:40am PT
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Donny, about that "somewhere up and right" bit on Deport Jonny Forever. Did Rick go straight up from the top of the opening flake, which is still right of the original line? That seems to be the most natural line and is still independent. It also seems possible to step right maybe one or two moves (harder), but it'll still come back to the finishing hold that going more or less straight up leads to. Going any further right than one of those - now that just might be real 12a. Do you remember how far right he went?
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:44am PT
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It was cool meeting you up there Rick. Thanks for the photos and kind words.
Conditions couldn’t have been better. Mark and I went for round two on TSF
and were somewhat surprised to make such progress. Although we have yet to send and regardless of how it was first done, traversing across the face definitely goes and is one of the coolest problems that I’ve been on at Woodson. What Greg neglected to mention was that he sent Stealth Bomber (after also getting Syncopation no less). I got devastatingly close (fell on the exit move) so I'll be back. For anyone who hasn’t been on it, it’s a really cool climb and shouldn’t be missed.
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