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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Mar 31, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
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Damn, that Donini guy sure puts all us young punks to shame.
I'm happy to be out pulling off run out 5.8 (ok, 8+) and bolted 10s... And he's out warming up on 11s so he can do the real stuff way down south.
Here's a bit I recall from Depth Charge...
Steve and Tim (??) were putting up the route. I was doing something over on the west end of Submarine with John Fleming (Up Periscope rings a bell, decent climb up that west nose) when Steve starts yelling about clearing the area. I'm lazing as the belay slave on our climb when suddenly the whole damn rock vibrates as a good sized trundle cuts loose and crashes off the base of the rock.
I mean seriously, it wasn't earthquake magnitude but Submarine is a big rock and we were on the west end, what, 100 yards away from Depth Charge, when Steve, on the lead and confronting some rather big nasties, releases the first charge. It caused that whole submarine to vibrate but good.
I think it took 10 years off Timmy's life to have that shrapnel hit so close and be so loud. It was safe, or as safe as any block down toward a belayer can be. I seem to recall a few more barrels went off that day, cleaning up the lead for the second ascent (still waiting....) but damn, if my nap wasn't ruined.
It's a pretty impressive lead, right up the middle of the big south face. Old skool pro, I don't think there's anything fixed ?
Edit:
It's looking like I have my routes confused. Musta been the shrapnel, PTSD kicking in.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 31, 2009 - 10:56pm PT
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There was a beautiful handcrack up a corner and out a big roof about thirty feet up. A rickety blade of rock about ten feet tall guarded the start. After screwing around trying to stem past it, it became obvious that it was over the side for the pup! I crawled up behind it after yelling down every sort of warning and employed a power armbar!
Slowly the blade began to lean into space and head into the void. One loud klack and the thousand pounds separated into suitcase-sized blocks and disappeared over the edge sucking the rock dust along.
A three count and the charge went off at 200'! About the same and a wild shock wave came flying through the entire formation! The folks nearby definitely were not expecting that big a depth charge! Great pitch once the way was clear.
I don't recall that first pitch being too harrowing besides the block chucking at the horizontal breaks. No fixed pro anywhere on that route that I can recall
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Mar 31, 2009 - 11:16pm PT
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I believe this is the rock in question... I distinctly recall hiking around it to look at the routes on there, but apparently didn't take any other pics.
I think the route Down Periscope is on this south face...maybe about where the yellow arrow points is the start? According to Toula guide, Depth Charge is on the left side (blue arrow).
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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No mistaking Submarine Rock and that is the right spot for Depth Charge. The first pitch goes up a steep wall hidden behind the formation as shown and below the limestone break.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Something or other at Windy Point, maybe over by Question of Balance?
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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OK- so Depth Charge is in the shadowed chimney on the northwest corner- I'm leading Down Periscope.
Heather Songster at the crux mantle on Down Periscope- sorry Steve, but it ain't too great of a route (better in our memories than reality!)
The rappel off Submarine Rock- Depth Charge on the left.
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Since you asked about Pointed Dome- here are a couple shots.
Pointed Dome on the left, Heather and I on top of Queen Victoria to the right.
Some old-timey dudes on the summit of Pointed Dome (late '70's)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Larry- who was Kamps partner on Pointed Dome?
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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TM Herbert and Don Wilson (1959). Pretty proud runout, although I later found a pin scar 2/3's of the way up above the bolt. Did you know that when we replaced the original nail drives that the last bolt was placed improperly- with the nail through the hanger and not the whole sheath!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I think those old nail drives had enough resistance that they figured they were good for the strength of the nail! I sure would rather clip into the whole show. I wonder if TM remembers that one? Did those guys do anything else on that visit?
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Bump for climbers!!!!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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A climbing thread up front- thank Zeus!!!! Who is the guy with the lycra- circa?
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2009 - 09:46pm PT
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Those were great stories, Paul and Steve! Thanks!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Zonerland bump...
Nice shot Rick.
That's one of the routes I have not located yet...
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Apr 11, 2009 - 09:43am PT
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With all the discussion about Submarine Rock, I forgot to mention the most interesting story. When Tim and I did the second ascent, we climbed a crack system alongside an old bolt ladder (self-drills with the hangers and caps removed). So when we got on top, we expected a drilled rappel anchor to simply re-rig and rap off. Instead, when we reached the NW corner of the formation (where the rap anchors are now), there was one partially drilled hole, and a second with a self-drill hanging halfway out- no bolts, hangers, etc. Fortunately we had brought up the drill and established the current anchor. But our bafflement continues (cue the scary music)- just how did the first ascent party get off? Were they picked up by a UFO? (Further inspection of the summit yielded no other natural anchors or hint of descent possibilities. I suppose a Needle's rappel would work, but wasn't very common knowledge in the '70's)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 11, 2009 - 11:27am PT
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Nice mystery! Any possibility that the projecting shield would have been in the position to act as a stop for a Needles rappel? Sounds like a case of hammer failure...or rapture...or ?!?
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