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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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For John
. . .Until one is committed there is hesitancy, the chance to
draw back, always ineffectiveness. Concerning all acts of initiative (and creation), there is one elementary truth, the ignorance of which kills countlss ideas and splendid plans: that
the moment one definitely commits oneself, then Providence moves too. All sorts of things occur to help one that would never otherwise have occurred. A whole stream of events issues
from the decision, raising in one's favour all manner of unforseen incedents and meetings and material assistance. which no man could have dreamt would have come his way. I have learned a deep respect for one of Goethe's couplets:
Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it.
Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it.
W. H. Murray
From Everest, the West Ridge, by Thomas Hornbein
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shut up and pull
climber
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Bachar is dead. Never thought I would ever hear that in my lifetime. Great climber who left a son behind because he had to go solo some 5.10 shitpile.
F*#k John -- what were you thinking? Your neck was fused from that car accident recently, and you were out of shape. And you decide to go soloing? F*#k man!!! What the hell did you go and do that for? Lots of tears for ya dude, since there was a man behind the myth (caring, funny as hell, always willing to give beta, and one of the best story tellers around). But dammit -- soloing now? So pissed I can hardly type.
You will be missed greatly.
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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I am lost with this. We survived the accident and now somehow I have become the only survivor. I had three people I loved deeply and in four short years I lost each of them. No, there is no reason to this, no logic.
I couldn't wait for the day for John to find his way, to see him happy without the stresses in his life. I knew Paola would lead him into better days. One where he would mentor the future of this sport. One where he would enjoy the beauty of watching his son become the fantastic man he is destined to be. One also where our friendship will not be constrained and we could share a beer talking about the good times. Now I have no one who remembers, no one who was there. It is so strange, so tragic that I am lost.
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darin
climber
mammoth lakes
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i was under the impression he was not gonna be soloing anymore after the car accident......but anyone that knows him will tell you that he was way to stubborn and would have been miserable not doing it anyway....tyrus is a tough kid, but i cant imagine his pain right now....they will be back here on friday and i will get the details i need
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shut up and pull
climber
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Anastasia -- my prayers to you. May God bring you peace in this terrible time.
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seamus mcshane
climber
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Anastasia- my prayers are with you...
To me, an outsider,
This is the day the music died...
Take solace in knowing John will always be ALIVE.
Peace be with you now AF, you will not be lost for long.
Peace be with Tyrus, and all who loved him.
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coldclimb
climber
Wasilla, Alaska
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Just wanted to express some more condolences from a climber who never met John Bachar, but was often awed and amazed by the glimpses I got of his life. Truly a legend. It's sad to hear he's gone.
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burp
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Just barely caught the news ...
John embodied climbing to me. Deeply saddened and speechless.
May he rest in peace.
Condolensces to his family and close friends.
Mike Hansen
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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somehow,
there is gain in loss.
though grief guides our heart for now, john's resounding vitality will surmount the ' whys? ' and eventually lead us all to the ' because! '.
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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, CA
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Was so sorry to hear about John, I remember watching him climb in the late seventies... a master poet/scientist of rock. Condolences to John's family and close friends.
-from Tim and Tom Sorenson
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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If rock climbing routes are artistic pieces, JB was Rembrant.
Sincere condolences to family.
lars
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Phil Bard
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, OR
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Some more images from John's prolific past...
A rare roped image, Bombs Over Tokyo on Daff Dome
One of my favorite images of John, the last pitch of Gripper
Training at his place in Foresta 1985
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JRS
Trad climber
Lexington, KY
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Around 1986, I was 13 years old and I was becoming obsessed with climbing. I had 3 posters on my wall that I must've stared at for hundreds of hours... the Boreal "On a Lamb" poster, the Gramicci "Oz" stemming shot (in white painter's paints and red tank-top), and a classic Chouinard poster of JB on a gorgeous blue-colored Verdon route (damnit I can't remember the name).
Thanks for the inspiration, John. You changed my life, no doubt about it...
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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phil,
thanks for posting so many amazing adventures that you were a part of.
keep them coming and keep the memories alive.
ks
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Dimes
Social climber
Living in the past.
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Here is a portrait I took of John a couple of years ago in Josh. He and Coz were out soloing whilst Al Dude, Boone, Jenn and myself were hanging out taking pics and just enjoying being in their presence. I think of all those yesterdays and wish they could all be put in to just one tomorrow. Thanks John for allowing me to pull down on some of the same holds that you had.
Powell
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corniss chopper
Mountain climber
san jose, ca
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He died with his boots on.
Dare anyone wish a better ending?
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Stimbo
Trad climber
Crowley Lake
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With a heavy heart and still numb from the shock of this tragedy, I too wish to pass on my condolences to Tyrus, Val, John's family and friends. His passing doesn't seem possible. John seemed immortal.
I got to know John when he first moved to Mammoth. I gave him my old ski equipment and watched him take off with glee and reckless abandon. He also dabbled in golf. John was not a golfer though as much as he tried.... it was funny watching him hour after hour bludgeon that poor little ball with a set of golf clubs. He just grinned in resignation.
However, he was second to none on the stone. His feet so precise and deliberate, fingers positive, in perfect balance and control.... everything I saw him climb seemed effortless and routine. He floated up cliff walls. John was a visionary in his climbing and ethics. With just shoes and chalk bag, he exemplified climbing in its purist form.
I am grateful and fortunate for the memories and the inspiration. My life is richer having known John. It was an honor. I will miss his smiles and jokes. The climbing world has suffered a huge loss. RIP John.
Jim Stimson
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FBIII
Trad climber
Reno
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The first time I met John I was waiting on him in the Broiler Room. He was having dinner with Sharon Blasinggame at a window seat. Sharon said to me “What happened to your hands.” I told her “I was working on Bachar Cracker before work.” She said “Do you know who this is.” I said “yes.” I have had the good fortunate to have known John since his teens. The last time I saw him was at the Loony Bean in Mammoth. I had my chess set in front of me and Tyrus and John came over Tyrus wanted to play and John said OK but we have to go soon. I was able to take most of Tyrus’ pieces and then I noticed and said “you have a mate in one.” Tyrus was only about 5 and he thought about it, for a minute, and beat me. John taught him well, John could always beat me.
I broke down crying at work today, at the thought of John’s death. I was right in front of a Minister, I had only meet this Buddhist Minister a week before. We talked and he brought up Carlos Castaneda, an author that John was familiar with. Reverend Bill told me a story from one of Calos’ books. I will paraphrase it. “We have both a blessing and a curse of a bird on our shoulder. It is the bird of Death. We can choose to ignore it, but it is still there. We can choose to acknowledge it and make use of the time we have.” John was always awake and aware of the time he had. I value the time that I have spent with John and will always find him an inspiring force in my life. Thank you John for sharing your time with me.
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Back in the day in Yose we would whisper "Wow, their's Bachar"
He was the Dude! I just lead Outer Limits for the first time, and felt good about myself, then John walks up and floats up Crack A-GO-GO, and I got wicked snail eye, and my hands started to sweat, just watching!
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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so sad to hear of john's passing. he was truly an inspiration to a generation of climbers, myself included. had the honor and pleasure of climbing in the meadows with him on a few occasions and the audacity of going after some of his routes early on with al nelson, who is also no longer with us. can't say we were ever close, but i'll be missing him all the same. hope he's found the peace we're all looking for, he was a true master. -fierce tiger on rock
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