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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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To engage the reader, write a description and maybe say "classic for the area" or "good climb". That will get people reading and not just scanning for stars. Descriptions can do more than stars - "First pitch is classic, but skip the loose 2nd pitch." Or, "after you endure the grainy first pitch you'll be rewarded with a classic splitter crack."
The same stuff you're mentioning Tom is the same stuff that caught my eye from the narratives for some of the routes described in the SEKI, Needles and Domeland guidebooks! (well, not all of it was well put together). Then again, the Shuteye region in general won't see the circus lines like Owens River Gorge or other easier access areas. Stars.....no star....that is the question. My take: leave them stars alone*
* 5 stars for 'Three Feathers', Lost Eagle heehee.
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tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
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I'd like to hope that Shuteye won't see the circus... but man, I live like 5 hours away and I've driven up there just for a day of climbing it's so good. I pray the road stays long and crappy, and that will detour most. But then again, I go, so it's lame to want everyone else to say away. Human nature. I have to share... but it's hard. But someone shared with me...
I gotta give Vernon hats off though for the guides he (they) did. While not perfect, and having some of the worst covers ever (I know it wasn't Greg's fault), they covered areas that were mostly off the radar. Any pioneering effort is a bigger effort than anyone else just building off of what was already done. Grahm is doing that too, so hats off to Grahm as well. These types of guides break ground, and fertilize the soil so to speak for the rest of us. We see pics, or potential, and fill the fields.
All in all, more climbing is good. Shuteye can't help it if it just happens to be better than most other places. It's the hot younger sister to Yosemite for sure, that many people have over looked, or just haven't noticed yet. Well, she's turning 18 boys! Come have a look! But be gentlemen! Treat the place with respect.
Oh yeah, and no stars for me. Make me work for it, even though it goes against my lazy nature. Make me read a sentence or two. Or even worse (!), go climb it myself and form my own opinion!
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Good input all around, Tom. I confess I too have done the 10 hrs. total driving time for one day of climbing at Shuteye thing. Many times. Really pretty messed up, actually.
Hey Grahm,
You could always go with this no nonsense fixed protection ONLY topo format™®©. That'll keep 'em guessing - and the adventure alive! Are they routes or constellations? Less is indeed more.
I'll look into May, mooch man. But don't you know we punters and our tinkerings are not worthy of the paparazzi?
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tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
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lol
yes, perfect. That's a topo for Shangri La!
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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lol
yes, perfect. That's a topo for Shangri La!
"F" on your exam Tom. I know exactly where this "constellation" is at! ;)
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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topos (not photo overlays) are pretty tough for this area. If you were to draw a topo for some of the routes I have put in, it would be very hard to convince the uninitiated guidebook reader that it's not an R/X route because there is so much face climbing, protected by cracks and chickenheads that the person on route might not see depending on the sequence they take. There are alot of places where the knobs are so plentiful that you can't drill a bolt even if you wanted to, unless you were to put the bolt on a knob. Contrast this with some of the more blank formations that have just plain sick runout slab routes and it makes a pretty difficult situation for a guidebook author to help make the area accessible to folks without alot of hard to acquire detail.
It really is an area that would be tough to start out climbing, but if you were to get through that learning curve, provide some rad training for high sierra routes and long valley routes.
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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All the more reason to attach a narrative to the route listed. That way the route can be described: "...overcome a small roof (5.10a) by traversing left on chickenheads then continue up a full pitch while slinging a constellation of knobs." Problem solved.
There's that word "constellation" again. ;)
Nate, I've never known you to be camera shy....straw hat and all. You can pose with Cyndi.....I won't mind. :D
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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That weekend should work for me, Mooch. Keep me posted. Maybe I can get out a couple of days between now and then so that I might at least be able to climb some lowly 5.9's again! hahaha Not been a lot of climbing in the last year.
On the positive side, I'll certainly be ready to shoot. :)
edit: I saw Graham had a snow mobile a few posts back... We should head up *while* there is snow still up there. That'd make for great shots! :)
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tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
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Hmmm... (black topo guess) ok, it's a place where there are a mix of trad climbs and bolted face routes, but not necessarily "sport" routes. Cliff is realatively short, maybe one pitch or two at most. Since it's mixed trad, it's in the valley or nearby?
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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What am I going to do with my old hand-drawn topos given to me 15 years ago by some homeless dude camping out at Fresno Dome Campground? The Hinterlands rock. I'll miss taking big bros on fingercracks and quickdraws on offwidths but I'm stoked for all the work you are putting into this thing.
Great job. Can't wait to see the final product and git out there.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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That's a good one Tom - "Since it's mixed trad, it's in the valley or nearby?" :)
And this trad line must be in the valley as well!
And this one:
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tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
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No, because it's a thread on So. Yosemite and we're talking about Shuteye.
So is it just some random topo?
And I want royalties if you're gonna be throwin' my image around.
I work hard to look that good...
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Not random, my friend. Just a portion of one of roughly 55+ known crags/domes/formations at Shuteye. Don't know 'bout the climber, but that route on the Hobbit does look quite good. :)
And micro-
Don't worry, there are, and will still be, plenty of obscurities where you can take all the wrong gear in the Hinterlands. But if you want to put those big bros to work, hook up with us this summer - as we know of a few "fingercracks" where they'd come in real handy!
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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NICE!!!
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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*gasp*......can't.....catch my breath....HAHAHA! *gasp*!!
Tom....if you keep making guesses like that, you'll surely be laughed off this thread! Keep 'em comin'!
Hey Ger....you guys get out to Tollhouse? Sent you, Rog, Leo and Nate an email regarding our outting yesterday at Suicide. Surprised I'm not typing this from a hospital bed....darn near got blown into the next county while attempting 'Mickey Mantle'.
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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Nice grahm,
you've managed to squeeze yet another month or two out of the already stellar climbing season in SoYo
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Jeremy - The Forest Service has not officially declared Minarets Road open to any extent, but yes, the road is clear to a about a mile past Jackass Rocks.
Beasore side is still too deep for vehicles - mostly at the Cold Springs crest.
The Weather Service calls for a couple of light storms between now and next Saturday with snow levels down to 5000 feet - but only a couple of inches of snow expected at the most.
Rick from Arnold Meadows
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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I completely agree JR. Not sharing information could only hurt the shuteye community by having alot of what you just described. One way to minimize the issue: use the 3/8" red heads that are all over shuteye. Drill the hole deeper than you need to place the bolt, put the hanger on and tighten it. If you've added a bolt and need to chop it, or more pertinently if you need to rebolt the placement in X years you can back the nut off and center punch the stud back into the rock and epoxy patch the hole. There is a particular type of epoxy that's kosher that I've used on many ASCA rebolting missions. You mix it up, throw it in the hole, and then schmeeer a bit of sand/dirt from the local area that you've carried up in a film canister and you're golden.
There is the issue when you drill the hole to deep that water can seep in over time and in winter freeze. Then you've got a little freeze thaw cycle going on in your bolt hole. I've never heard any science on this if its really an issue, if it hurts the placement, causes it to rust out too quick. Can anyone comment?
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