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BASE1361
climber
Yosemite Valley National Park
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Piss on me Pete and Tom were up there years ago as well. You could hear Pete's hammer from Moby Dick drill'n away. Ammon made it to the first 2-3? pitches and Pete used Ammon's rope to TR the pitches. Sounds like Pete put some weak sauce in his breakfast that morning. TR Ammon's rope to climb A5 is like shooting a tiger in a zoo. Where's the challenge??
Any Drill'n ask Pete. Ammon and Kait are not up there drill'n on the route.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Adding or replacing? There is a difference.
Prod.
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Pete was up there with Richard and Mark (and their permission), replacing the original (old) rivits with rivits IIRC a few years ago. The route was still sporting those same rivits at the end of last year.
Is it possible that Pete was up there this year? I don't think so. However, nothing is impossible. Still, the bolts were up just two days after Pete came down from the epic with David, because I carried loads and saw the bolts the day after the rain stopped.
I cannot imagine that Ammon would do this without FA permission, anyway. We will have to wait to hear from them or from whoever did it to know.
Kate
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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No one's EVER shown outright contempt for Richard or Mark before, have they?
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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I agree, there must to be more to this story than the current team (or someone working with them) bolting without FA permission. I know one other guy on this site that tried the route and claimed the first 2 pitches two years ago, but he left the rivets, did not replace with bolts.
Maybe some other attempt was about to happen, they replaced the hardware and the current team jumped at the opportunity?
Kate
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Prod
Trad climber
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If this was all done so WITHOUT the approval of either Richard or Mark, then there is not nor will there ever be a true SA of "WINGS OF STEEL". The route has been killed and no longer exists.
Oh well. The book, let alone a possible new chapter, has been closed shut and thrown into the fire. Sad day indeed and the true end of an era.
Did you take your pill today? A bit mellow dramatic without knowing many if any of the facts involved.
Prod.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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There is a lot of conjecture out there, very few facts. I think I'll wait to hear from Kait and Ammon before getting my panties all in a wad.
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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So you sleep with a stuffed animal and wear panties?
Marks post brings more questions than answers. ;)
-Kate.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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The true me, revealed!
;-)
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Meaty
climber
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Maybe that sackless drone pal of the FA party will not be such a coward and delete the post were he accused me of shitting on those ropes. I have the screen shot, what a load of defamation! Nefarius is as much a coward as those two chumps. Go f*#k yourself Randy!
Edit: Oh! So Randy didn't delete the post accusing me of shitting on those ropes! Well isn't that special!
All this lame ass talk about getting the FA party's permission regarding the fixed gear/bolts on aid or free routes is pathetic, people are free to do whatever they please and hear the music afterwards. Loads of climbs in Yosemite both free and aid that have bolts etc. placed by repeating parties.
Permission? Bullsh#t, no one needs permission to chop, add, steal hangers....it goes on all the time.
When anyone leaves fixed gear/bolts it is no longer their property, it is abandoned. If someone drills loads of bolts on WOS so what.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Maybe that sackless drone pal of the FA party will not be such a coward and delete the post were he accused me of shitting on those ropes. I have the screen shot, what a loads of defamation! Nefarius is as much a coward as those two chumps. Go f*#k yourself Randy!
Edit: Oh! So Randy didn't delete the post accusing me of shitting on those ropes! Well isn't that special!
All this lame ass talk about getting the FA party's permission regarding the fixed gear/bolts on aid or free routes is pathetic, people are free to do whatever they please and hear the music afterwards. Loads of climbs in Yosemite both free and aid that have bolts etc. placed by repeating parties.
Permission? Bullsh#t, no one needs permission to chop, add, steal hangers....it goes on all the time.
When anyone leaves fixed gear/bolts it is no longer their property, it is abandoned. If someone drills loads of bolts on WOS so what.
Preserved here, for all time. Also pinned up on my fridge.
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kaitb
Big Wall climber
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We haven't drilled anything. All natural hooking. Pretty spicy... I think the bolts are from Pete a few years ago. Ammon & Kait
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Good news.
Still, I don't think the bolts were from Pete and the FA team, I'm pretty sure they're new. Climb safe, Kait and Ammon.
-Kate.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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If someone added bolts then it just verifies the FA was a pretty ballsy affair and someone wasn't prepared to sack up to the same level on the route.
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Meaty
climber
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The new generation of GYMER FU's and fuk any ethics that once were the soul of the rock.
No more soul. None. All gone.
The Chief
Please do not over-generalize the current "new" generation. Many younger climbers have the same respect for ethics, soul of the rock...etc. as those much older.
I've had run-out climbs bolted over 20 years ago on rap by climbers the same generation as me, it's just selective outrage by a very few people that seem to make noise. It isn't a generational thing, it is just fact, when you place a bolt it is no longer your property, it becomes part of the public domain. Someone has the same right to chop it as you had placing it.
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Meaty
climber
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"Dance and spray all ya want. The comments above state the reality of my post. The ongoing "Tick Mark" thread just adds to the lack of soul. Whatever.
OVER AND OUT!"
No spray, just the clear reality. Nothing new or having to do with a younger generations as well.
Funny how I've never heard a peep from you and many others about climbs I did the FA of that were bolted over on rap?? It has absolutely nothing to do with ones age/generation. No one has control over others actions when it comes down to placing bolts on existing climbs or chopping bolts, and it happens all the time. Nothing new. Many examples of just those facts, examples that have nothing to do with the current younger generation(s) as they weren't even born yet.
Again, no spray. I can name climbs with R ratings bolted over on rap over twenty years ago that have nothing to do with folks under 30 years old.
I read the word "travesty" from you Chief? Why is your outrage so selective?
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Spicy Hooking Nice
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Pete, texting from a "bathtub" atop horsetail falls assures me that he hasn't been up there and sends good vibes to Ammon and Kait.
The moral of this story?
Filter your water, folks.
Then filter it again.
:)
-Kate.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Filter your water, folks.
Then filter it again.
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Meaty
climber
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You're clearly as delusional as Nefarius.
My question wasn't about WOS and your effort, but about why you're so selective with outrage over equal ethical questions.
You've got a hard on about a few bolts on WOS, so why aren't you equally outraged over other climbs with bolts added by repeating parties?
How many climbs on El Cap do NOT have bolts from later ascents? Why are all of those bolts NOT a travesty in your opinion but just a select few on WOS??
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