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MH2
climber
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Yes, I do remember Mountain 21. It was the first climbing magazine I bought though I got a few earlier issues later on. Number 15 did not list Al Rubin among the contributors (United States) as many later issues did.
I also remeber Denny Merritt's modest reference to being the centerfold of Mountain Magazine. Good job including the staples in your image.
And wasn't Chuck Loucks the one who carried a record-player to the base of Cakewalk to climb it to the music?
I only had one interaction with Chuck but it was an intense one and his quiet strength came across clearly.
"an '89 Chateau Meyney Saint-Estephe.
Hopefully worthy of the man."
Cheers
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Chuck Loucks was one of the all-time nice guys in climbing----a gentle soul with a dry but excellent sense of humor. He was missing several fingers on one hand (don't know the reason), but climbed smoothly and solidly. My recollection is that he died in an unexplained, roped, but unprotected, fall on the Jensen Ridge of Symmetry Spire, a climb well within his ability.It was, and remains to those of us who knew him, a very sad loss.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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TB: "Glass tipped!
In this case, an '89 Chateau Meyney Saint-Estephe."
You're posting online while drinking that?
The French will be outraged. You'll be lucky to get them to sell you a jug of plonk after that admission.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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I stand corrected: Chuck died in a very long (80-100 ft) roped fall on easy ground on Symmetry Spire in 1976. Still not sure whether it was the Jensen Ridge or the SW Ridge.
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the idle rich
climber
Estes Park, CO
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Though before I worked in the Tetons, I'm pretty sure Chuck fell while leading on the Jensen Ridge on Symmetry Spire...well within his abilities. I think he was climbing with the Westmacott's (don't quote me on this) and was not feeling well before they began the climb. I recall that there was speculation that he had some sort of episode that caused him to fall. I didn't know Chuck well but I remember that he had quite a repertoire of old climbing songs and wasn't hesitant to perform. I also recall the jelly beans on climbs and the time it rained, leaving a sticky residue on all of the holds.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Rich, Thinking about that solo of High E pic, wasn't there an "almost" on that or a similar occasion that brought an end to that period of group soloing in the Gunks?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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This thread - the whole thing, that is - currently takes me 4:18 to load, pictures included. Worth every second.
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richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
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Vulgarian Steve Larsen right. Building stone circle with Gunks stone at his farm. We could have used a few more druids that day.
The end result.
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sween345
climber
back east
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So...
These Gunks stone circles work as some kinda equestrian chick magnet?
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Al, I'm not aware of anything bringing an end to group soloing in the Gunks beyond the fading of the Vulgarians who used to practice it. It seems to be a tradition that passed as its practicioners left the scene---subsequent generations never took it up.
I certainly went on soloing for many years, but that day with Jim and Matt may have been one of the last times I went off for a group excursion, perhaps because I graduated to harder and harder stuff and such things are best done in isolation.
The group solos used to be a regular feature of the Vulgarian spring training, in which a large number of the easy routes were done in a day by a large and typically very jovial group who, the times being what they were, were not exactly buff from a winter in the climbing gym---there being no such thing.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2008 - 10:36pm PT
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The old lug a jug to offset the chug a lug in the off season, eh! Perfect place to solo.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2008 - 02:24pm PT
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Vulgarians, all in a line
Eschewed ropes to get fit, double time
I may wind up shorter
Eighth or a quarter
But climbing round here, I’ll be fine.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2008 - 04:11pm PT
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A little Gunks piece from Wolkgang Gullich's bio, A Life in the Vertical, 1994.
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Rickster
Trad climber
Pine Bush,NY
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Dec 14, 2008 - 08:10pm PT
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RR, do you need to book a room and procure a guide to take photos of the rock while on hotel grounds? RC
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Dec 14, 2008 - 10:08pm PT
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Nice photos, Rich!
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richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
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Bumpity Bumpity Bump, this thread's been in a bit of a slump.
1983.
Mid 70's
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richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
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The ones I didn't lose.
Old Rock and Snow tee shirt after the fire.
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richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
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Old Gunks pins.
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Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
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Rich Ross,
Great job keeping the fire burning! I will try to post some stuff this weekend.
Geno
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