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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 29, 2018 - 01:44pm PT
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the girl from the movie say that it is not holding even backpack [ one Merlin bended on top rope fall and another bended in backpack]
Tradprincess
Trad climber
Kentucky
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2018 - 08:58pm PT
The merlin cam is very light weight. Most people use it as aid or just push it in front of them. I took a fall on one with it at my waist. They are not as beefy as a valley giant. So when you fall on one you can bend the lobs of the cam. I bent the lobes of one in a fall. The other one the lobes bent in a pack. Once you bend the lobes the piece is kind of f*#ked.
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Matt's
climber
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Nov 29, 2018 - 01:51pm PT
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it doesn't look like the lobes are bent, it looks like the stem is bent.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Nov 29, 2018 - 04:10pm PT
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Wait, Wait,
Are you telling me that lighter gear has limitations that heavier gear does not? I am, as the kids say, shook.
JFC it’s amazing more people don’t off themselves at the crags on a daily basis with this little thought about what they’re doing. Really, cramming a thin but broad piece of aluminum into a pack then tossing a bunch of heavy, rigid cams(like a creek rack) on top will bend it? No sh#t, next thing you’ll tell me that putting my Vapor helmet at the bottom of that same pack could crack it.
A short(but not exhaustive, don’t @me) list for the brain donors out there:
Don’t girth hitch shoe string runners to 1/2” nylon ones
Don’t put ultralight helmets inside packs next to hardware
Don’t fall on Merlin’s at weird angles
Don’t order something that’s a side gig/artisanal product and expect Amazon service
Don’t expect tiny gear to hold(especially in wingate or other chossy rock)
Don’t chimney in yet new ultralight puffy
Ditto lightweight packs like the REI flash or this Kalais thing I have
Don’t keep shoestring runners and dogbones for more than 10 yrs
If any of the above are news maybe you should stick to the gym.
Thanks Erick, so happy I got mine before this skullduggery began.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 29, 2018 - 07:08pm PT
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Trashman, your nickname connected funny way with products you listed.
Speaking of quality, I like BD approach where they make camalots lighter without compromising durability. You still can place ultralight BD cams into backpack ,- same way you did with BD C4
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Nov 29, 2018 - 08:10pm PT
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Hey, I own and like almost all those things, and they have their place, but ya gotta understand the trade offs.
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Matt's
climber
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Nov 30, 2018 - 10:49am PT
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Both were, It doesn't take to much of a bend in the lobes to make it unusable. The lobes after that fall would grind nastily against each other. Merlin dooes a great job of replacing them after they get messed up though. Great customer service. I'd say just buy the appropriate piece for what you want. If you ant something light but you have to take more care with... merlin. If you want to whip more than once and have something a bit more tough... vg
thanks for the update. i'll stick with body-weight only for the merlin cam...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Did Tradprincess get banned?
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couchmaster
climber
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She was a sparkplug, wish she'd stayed around. Best climbing shots in a long time.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Yeah, her account has been deactivated. Not sure if it was requested by her or enforced by CMAC/RJ due to complaints.
Can't hardly have any fun around here anymore with edgy topics. I do like her photography. Too bad she's already toast. That was one of the shortest runs ever.
When I participate in threads like Bitches, which look like they might draw complaints, I start saving to PDF. I've got the whole thing archived: ha ha.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Crazy, wonder why she would have been banned or self deported?? Wasn't closely following her threads but she seems fun and is obviously climbing hard. Probably we will never know....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Anything weird happen just before the end?
The brother protects just t fine with 6’s, btw. I have placed a Merlin and a vg on later ascents ( each after the invert section,) for science.😎 don’t let lack of extra large cams keep you off this route, it’s killer!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Anything weird happen just before the end? The last post was about NWA, the rap group from the 80s.
There were direct quotes, and though it was absolutely germane to the topic, since the language isn't exactly PC, nor PG, perhaps somebody complained?
Something that did happen which was sort of weird, but likely coincidental: some kid from a Utah University spammed like nine threads at once with a poorly identified survey. And it hit the third to last post of the thread. I can't see how that would've precipitated a deletion of the thread along with TradPrincess account deactivation.
Something else going on here.
Either she decided to blow this pop stand and take all her marbles home, or she was identified by complainers as a problem for her language. Then, zippo, another valuable contributor vaporized.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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her friend and parner also posted couple posts under name : mersendyclimberson - also gone.
it is important to find out if those girls decided to remove themself or someone rat on them and it was admin decision.
it was were strange removal of treads recently related to Kathy Karlo, where tread was removed by someone [ who?] request
still you can see names of 3 deleted treads in Google cash:
all of them somehow related:
Bitches :: SuperTopo Rock Climbing Discussion Topic
http://www.supertopo.com › Climber's Discussion Forum
Nov 27, 2018 - 20 posts - 14 authors
Tradprincess. Trad climber. Kentucky ... Tradprincess. Trad climber. Kentucky .... Tradprincess. Trad climber. Kentucky ...
Climber-Social Media-Heroes :: SuperTopo Rock Climbing Discussion ...
http://www.supertopo.com › Climber's Discussion Forum
Aug 1, 2018 - 17 posts - 15 authors
Anita514 "Tradprincess is an interesting one. I think she may be a bit of a mouth breather" HAHAHAHAHA omg that's classic. Thanks bud.
Kathy Karlo - Climbing and Internet Bullying :: SuperTopo Rock ...
http://www.supertopo.com › Climber's Discussion Forum
Nov 26, 2018 - 2 posts - 2 authors
Kathy Karlo - Climbing and Internet Bullying - page 8 - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community ...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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MersendyClimberson's posts are only gone because the Bitches thread is gone. She only had two.
Her account is still active.
You have to petition CMAC to get your own account deactivated.
I know this because I've spoken with people who've done it, like Tami. Or he and RJ will do it for you if enough people complain, a la Warbler.
Likely, these women are out guiding and climbing, not so concerned about any of this, and living the life we ought to be!
I have a message into TradPrincess Eden via Mountain Project member to member e-mail.
Because, yeah, I much dislike contributing to threads and having them struck, and I definitely don't like watching women getting run off. So I'd like to know what's up.
If people leave of their own accord, so be it. That's a choice. Like locker. He wanted out. In that case: bye-bye and happy trails!
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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I do not missing much Locker's blue plugs, but what is really lost is climbing contents by Warbler and Coz
and thank to you Tarbuster that you trying to restore it partially
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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You're welcome, Alexey.
I've still got quite a bit of work to do in restoring the Welcome to Kevin Worrall thread. So stay tuned!
I put a considerable amount of completely on topic climbing material on the Bitches thread, mostly links to stuff those women were doing, including links to artwork a commercial artist had done of Cadi, which was really cool, and that interview which Kunlun linked above.
I had more stuff in the pipeline. Kind of a first world problem, but I don't like curating and generating climbing content and having it vaporized.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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FWIW, they have both taken a sabbatical from guiding....
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Tprincess
Trad climber
Moab
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I love that women get deleted on super topo for asking people tough questions. Like... does this offend you, and why?
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Tprincess
Trad climber
Moab
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Yea didn't notice because we are out doing the thing! The climbing thing that is...
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