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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2015 - 04:39pm PT
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You know, it's a pretty sure sign your bachelor party is not going well when:
a) only three people show up
b) there are no strippers etc
c) nobody gets drunk
d) you actually remember everything
At least, that's what the weekend was supposed to be... a bachelor party dirtbike riding camping out in the desert hanging out in hot springs rock climbing barbequeing good time.
I f-n give up.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Only two showed up? Hell, I thought I was there too. Must have been an acid flash back.
On another note; Ney emailed me. He's ready to fly some of the boys around. I declined for now-would rather spend my limited time on the rock at this point. If any of you other guys are eager pm him.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2015 - 04:56pm PT
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My bad...
Thanks Rick for heading out! I know the single pitch thing isn't really your game; but my buddies there were struggling and bitching their way up as it was. I think the hike down to the other formations would have killed them. Seriously... I had invited about eight other guys.
Anywho... I'm thinking of calling this the Kitty Wall (or kiddie wall?). Those ancient Egyptians had a thing for cats after all... and in honor of my attempt at getting a party going, and the way it turned out, in any event I'll call the new route "herding cats", an 80ish ft 5.6.
Green route on the right of it that Brenda and I did some years back could be called "simple glyph"? Only maybe 70 feet of 5.4, as I recall.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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This is your twisted east coast reporter
the crap that claims it is ' Climber' today
What pansy azz bullshit
they pull up on holds
and go ooow it is dirty, my hZnd hurt
Really?
The kid was being shown gems . . .sixty feet just past vertical
He said oh yeah we've been there there are no lines,
there is nothing to climb,No it is not the Gym or the slicked-out Gunks and yes there is real flora and fauna, good to great rock all short, small rock hell at it's best.
to think that it is summer the heat sucks,and the season of heat for you is worse I'm sure?
Stay Stoked I am so in if the winds blow right I hope you know that ! The wife has threatened to get me a bus ticket so I'm staying put but if she gets mad enough at me to fly me out to, what to her, looks like east hell, then - sign me up.
It maybe hard to stay in Gerlach though . . . .2¢
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Alexander Kirkpatrick
Trad climber
Carson City
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Cool stuff in the desert. Is anyone heading out that way this weekend?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2015 - 09:57pm PT
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Not me; but i heard a rumor...
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Yeah, im going out there tomorrow and saturday. You like well protected moderates Alexander?
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Welcome to Supertopo Alexander!
You are more than welcome to join in the
search for obscure climbs.
This Selenite place is a good one!
Bob Pinckney
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Keep up the good work Jonnyrig. Hardly anything better than obscure treasure hunts.
Better than standing in line at overcrowded crags any day.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Two short new routes today with Bob. On the south face of the Obelisk-a steep corner to 5.9 exit mantle followed by easy face. The second was on a 100' formation just east of the obelisk which involved a short crack 5.7 to a classic looking but easy open book to the top. Repeated Left Crack 5.9 with the Central Pillar of Tad start as a bank of rain clouds seemed to quickly approach. Heard a voice to my left from a neighboring ridge as I started following the second pitch- It was Alexander who arrived about 4:30 after a short day of work. Going to be a busy day up there tomorrow with Ney and his wife, Alexander and myself. Sorry no pics today.
Post up Tad. Try to include a five mile stretch from the Selenite summit road to the north.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Couple of photos from yesterday.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Busy day out at the crags today. Alex had camped overnight, I met Ney and his wife Betsy on the way in and drove them the last half mile up the four wheel drive section. Nothing but repeats today. Went two teams and repeated Right Crack and Park Lane on The Obelisk. Then we all four did the Northwest Buttress of the Sphinx with the direct finish, an excellent route. Another day of perfect high desert weather with forty mile vistas. On the way out we saw a guy and gal climbing a 75' craglet to the east. From the look of them and their vehicle I had the impression it might have been Laine and his wife. Laine was that you? Anyway, no pics again; sorry getting lazy in my old age.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 10, 2015 - 07:38am PT
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Yep, we spent the morning catching cutthroat at the lake then drove up around 2. Did 3 routes on that crag and installed a set of chains at the top. The crag was much better than expected. The routes range from 5.9-5.11 and are mostly finger cracks. I'll post up a annotated photo when I get a chance.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 10, 2015 - 09:14am PT
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Good well rounded day Laine, what with the fishing in the am and 3 new routes in the pm. Hey i gave your email address out to these folks i climbed with yesterday. all good and interesting people and all eager to climb with people like yourself who are well versed in desert cragging.
On another note; it appears my wife did get a few pictures. here is one below with us two parties climbing Right Crack and Park Lane on The Obelisk simul.
Laine, im here for eleven more days, wanna go do the central diheral on The Sphinx (should be among the very best on the crag ), or go to the Crack Wall (well over twice the size of your crag yesterday and many more continuous cracks) next weekend?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 10, 2015 - 06:52pm PT
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I'll see what my schedule is looking like but that seems fun. I'd like to camp out there soon if the weather would hold up.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 10, 2015 - 08:32pm PT
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Yeah camping there is great, has good vantage points for sunrise and sunset. Far from any city lights the stars are bright. We have plenty of fire wood and will stock the place up.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 10, 2015 - 08:46pm PT
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You Guys! You're kill in' me!
Holy hay bales !
I actually live near an air port or two and between needing to have hired a plane last month before the leaves came in, and seeing the real new zone - your zone! I am not getting back at it here like I should.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 11, 2015 - 10:15am PT
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Thank you Rick! We had a great time and we'll be back memorial day - sorry that you'll be north by then. Great climbing in a wonderful high desert setting.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 11, 2015 - 10:21am PT
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Alex, you were asking about that super looking granite on the east side of the Toiyabe range - the Wild Granites? Here is a photo from my plane. It apparently is a heinous approach, but I bet this photo will get some folks thinking about going up there. What fine looking granite!!
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