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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Oct 27, 2014 - 11:42pm PT
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Remember when supertopo was old guys bitching about climbing instead of old guys bitching about nothing?
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Oct 28, 2014 - 08:03am PT
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I'd personally like to thank all those ancient crack nailers for making sweet little fingerlocks in things that would be too tiny for my fat digits.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Oct 28, 2014 - 09:08am PT
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I kind of like this trend of bringing back old posts that used to be what Supertopo was about. It's been happening more and more lately, and I like the trend.
I don't have much to add to the OP as I'm too biased to have a worthwhile opinion, but I have enjoyed this thread.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 28, 2014 - 10:09am PT
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I have always pushed clean climbing about as far as I could.
But I have also carried courage in my ruck sack.
I will continue to use a pin when I feel the "need." Why?
Because I'm chicken. I'm older and not as bold as I once was.
I value living, and unbroken body parts more than I treasure a clean placement. But I still value climbing and will continue to climb, for the time being.
The end.
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California
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Nov 24, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
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Between the WoS thread (and video) and THIS thread, as well as the bashing of other well respected climbers (not to mention guidebook*s) over the years, I have come to the following conclusion: Steve Grossman, you're kind of an as#@&%e, and I've met you in real life...I guess my first impression of you was wrong. Disappointing.
Stop feeling so damned entitled and stop bashing people, esp amazing people like Ammon. This thread, and other threads you have contributed to really do display that you sir, are a VERY sore loser.
Best of luck to you.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Nov 24, 2014 - 08:37pm PT
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Duane Raliegh chipping hook placements on your route Jolly Roger
Really? What a punter!
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BrandonAdams
Big Wall climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Nov 25, 2014 - 06:41am PT
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Ammon is an idol of mine.
Grossman's ethic and style are what I aspire to.
I agree with Grossman about the need for continual discussion about clean climbing and the progression of climbing in general. Sometimes it will get heated. Sometimes names will be called. Keeps us on our toes. I don't take Grossman's post as an affront against Ammon.
Keep at it.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 25, 2014 - 07:15am PT
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The resurrection of this thread, along with the current WOS threads, make me wonder at how the microsom of climbing that El Cap is can induce so much sniping and, generally, drama queen prattle that feeds on itself and grows completely out of proportion.
Who pounded a pin, who said what, who should apologize, who needs to be taken out to the woodshed?
Who cares? Lots of people here evidently.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Nov 25, 2014 - 07:18am PT
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Same general discussion as the bolts on Cerro Torre, and every other mountain people think they climb in "style".
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Nov 25, 2014 - 07:25am PT
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Duane Raliegh chipping hook placements on your route Jolly Roger
Really? What a punter!
I know Duane. Duane is not a punter by any means. Look up his history. Know what you are speaking of before you trash talk.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Nov 25, 2014 - 08:13am PT
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^^^
I have no dog in this fight, but as I recall even Raleigh admits that they f'ed up the attempt at the second and were in over their heads at the time.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Nov 25, 2014 - 08:21am PT
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El Cap-
I don't have a dog in the fight either. Sounds like you have info I have not heard.
But I do know Duane. I've climbed some of his routes. They are usually rated with an X.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Nov 25, 2014 - 08:28am PT
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^
At work and it was a while ago. All were at Quaurtz and around .9. There were a lot of heavy runouts there.
edit: I don't want to get into a pissing match. I'll back out. Just have to stand up for a friend.
double edit: one was S wall. my brain is recharging
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Nov 25, 2014 - 08:47am PT
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ElCap- Your posts on this forum leave me with no reason to doubt your credibilty. I wasn't there.
I just speak as a person that has known Duane. Good guy, good friend and bold climber.
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 25, 2014 - 02:18pm PT
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"He among you who has never done a single act of unnecessary pounding or bolting, let him cast the first stone at Ammon."
"Ammon, doth no climber condemn thee?"
"No my Lord."
"Nor do I condemn thee. Go and just sin once in awhile as you are currently doing."
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