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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Chim-Chim
climber
Jul 31, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
Been to Shelf road... not impressed. Obviously perfectly protectable lines at least in part ... butchered.
Shelf Road is pretty much all rap bolted routes, bolts in bad placements, natural protection wasn't even considered since it was a sport climbing area. I remember watching the drillers go at it, they would just rap bolt line after line, dozens in a day without even climbing the route afterward just so they can name it and come back and try to climb it later.
There are good routes there, just few and far between, throw in the hot springs and good mexican food nearby and it makes a good winter place to climb. Although it was better before the pay campground went in.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Shelf Road is pretty much all rap bolted routes, bolts in bad placements, natural protection wasn't even considered since it was a sport climbing area. I remember watching the drillers go at it, they would just rap bolt line after line, dozens in a day without even climbing the route afterward just so they can name it and come back and try to climb it later.
Haha, that seems to be a bit of an exaggeration to me, but I have not been there since 2001.
Cheers,
Prod.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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This was around '94 Prod, not everybody was doing it, mostly a few guys were the main perpetrators but I saw them drill 12 routes while we just did two established lines. This was pretty consistant every weekend I was down there, Never saw them climb, just drill.
Most climbers just rap bolted then climbed the routes but these guys were on a mission.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Eric wrote: This was around '94 Prod, not everybody was doing it, mostly a few guys were the main perpetrators but I saw them drill 12 routes while we just did two established lines. This was pretty consistant every weekend I was down there, Never saw them climb, just drill.
Who..you make these crazy statements.
Who was doing it? What routes?
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Hey Bob, I knew you would take that bait.
Damit Prod I thought you might scare him away.
Now Bob tell us all about the routes done there ground up?
Tell us about all those bold climbs on lead placing bolts by hand.
Remember this guy?
Drill baby drill!
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Eric...I bolted another one of your "bold" top rope routes in the Canyon today.
But then again it was 10- so it had to be some one else who did it.
Eric wrote: Now Bob tell us all about the routes done there ground up?
Tell us about all those bold climbs on lead placing bolts by hand.
Why do you care? You couldn't get up them no matter how the bolts were placed.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Bolting Bob, just because you spray the most, doesn't mean you know the most.
Now when are you coming to FL to go fishing and bird watching?
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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What is your point Goat? Or don't have one and you are just another never-was bumbler pining for the good old days when 5.11 was somehow harder because it was done in lycra?
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Patrick wrote: What is your point Goat?
He doesn't have one...got some weird shit/fixation with me and the routes that I have done.
The really strange part is that he keep asking about what bold ground up routes others have done when he has a big goose egg when it come to the amount he has done.
These wanna-be-tradsters are really warped in the head...expecting others to do what they can't.
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Will Eccleston
Trad climber
Atlanta, GA
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If this route was originally put up in the manner that folks are saying it was, it introduces way too many grey areas for me to really get excited and argue about. But I will say what I always say when people are arguing about bolting:
By far, for me, the most interesting thing I can do when climbing is to approach a route that has been un-altered by humans, climb it from bottom to top with just what myself and my partner can carry, and walk away from it with everything we brought, leaving it still unaltered by humans. I hope the folks that don't share this sentiment will think about it, and maybe, one day, share it.
It should be noted that I am happy to clip bolts sometimes, and I'm happy that sport climbing exists, but climbing on real rock without someone's pre-installed infrastructure is so much more satisfying.
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MAD BOLTER
Trad climber
CARLSBAD,NM
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AND I THOUGHT RETROBOLTING WAS TALKING ABOUT REPLACING OLD ORIGINAL BOLTS THAT WERE NOT STAINLESS AND/OR WERE POORLY(BADLY?) SET.
I HAVE CHOPPED/REMOVED ONE PAIR OF OLD VERY BAD-DEADLY-PLACEMENT BOLTS. WITHOUT RESETTING NEW ONES. A VERY MUCH UNUSED ROUTE. ABOUT 20 YRS. AGO
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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^^^
Retro-bolting = adding bolts that were not there when the route was FA'd.
Re-bolting = replacing/upgrading existing bolts.
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Wad
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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How's the nailin on this thing? Is there any good copper heading? Looking forward to the big send, just wanna get beta on what iron to bring. Bivy spots?
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Patrick, I don't care either way, I only did a half dozen routes up there, a few were bold and a couple were top ropes. No big deal either way although a bunch of us are laughing at the new guidebook and the half ass way it was thrown together without any input from the guidebook at Neptunes.
Just a copy and past from the Mountain Project database.
They don't call him Ground Up Bob or Bold Bob, it's Bolting Bob for a reason, and it's just fun to sit back and laugh as he fights the reputation.
Settle down Bob and accept your fate as an overbolting, rapbolting, and retrobolting machine.
When is your next guidebook coming out?
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Aug 12, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
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Eric wrote: They don't call him Ground Up Bob or Bold Bob, it's Bolting Bob for a reason, and it's just fun to sit back and laugh as he fights the reputation.
Eric wrote:Patrick, I don't care either way, I only did a half dozen routes up there, a few were bold and a couple were top ropes.
The fat man doesn't care but continues to arm chair quarteback and mouth off.
Coming from a overweight top roper who can't lead a sport or trad 5.9.
Funny stuff indeed.
Eric...have you led Scary Canary, Jules Verne, Blue Power or Wendego...to name a few?
Yes or no?
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Aug 13, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
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Yes when I was young and dumb.
Haven't done Blue Power or Wendego. does that mean I'm not to allowed to have an opinion on your plagiarism?
Your hen picking is hilarious.
Have you ever had unprotected sex in Camp Slime or Camp Four?
Have you ever been a bike messenger in NYC or skied a CO 14er....?
Whats your record on the Long Peak Tri?
rollin rollin rolling bolting Bob Hide...eeeee...
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Aug 13, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
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Eric wrote: Yes when I was young and dumb.
Haven't done Blue Power or Wendego. does that mean I'm not to allowed to have an opinion on your plagiarism?
You are a liar. Plain and simple. Now you are old, dumb and liar.
Having an opinion is one thing...being a liar is another. Fecking armchair climber and now a couch potato guide book critic...doesn't get much funnier.
So sorry that your historical top rope ascents didn't get into the book...Boulder Canyon history is so incomplete now.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Aug 13, 2013 - 02:29pm PT
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Eric: Last I saw you, you were hanging and moaning on 5.8 in the Voo, ON TOPROPE. That's sweet action that you lead those Eldo scarefests...unless of course you're full of sh#t. Hmm, what are the chances...5.8 flailer is ex-hardman, or 5.8 flailer is lying?
Who knew that being Roy's rack caddy would turn you into such a stud? It's like NPR, I learn something new everyday.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Aug 13, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
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Elcap...I watched Eric whine like a six year old on a 5.7 slab...amazing to see his rapid fall from a 5.12 eldo hardman to to his current state.
I almost feel sorry for the guy...almost being the key word.
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