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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Oct 11, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
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Who removed Jensen's bolt and hanger in Crunch's photo?
Maybe Paul Ryan?
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Oct 11, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Oct 11, 2012 - 02:15pm PT
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This is all really terrible. The video from the FA pretty much gave the rest of us a good idea of what was already up there. This is only if the A6+ rating didn't tell you already. I mean really, A6+? I was still thinking A5 was not real with lots modern gear. Not sure why Richard really felt the need or want to do this, even after reading through most of this thread. Different ways of thinking for different people.
I will say that Silvia Vidal will always be one of my heros of wall climbing. This whole deal has nothing to do with what country we are from. It has to due with a lack of respect for the natural.
To rivet hanger, Beyer and his style have been disliked by many American climbers. I think of Beyer as a rebel wall climber. The whole idea of rating aid climbs the way he does is madness. His ethics and way about doing things have been disapproved by many. Yet, I call Beyer the better aid climber over Pelut.
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Heyzeus
climber
Hollywood,Ca
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Oct 11, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
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Was Romney involved? That does it then, I'm not voting for those guys!Stealing hangers, not patching bolt holes! :)
BTW- nice photos Crunch.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Oct 11, 2012 - 02:46pm PT
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Beyer pushed aid as far as he could go. He was climbing in the Fishers before Birdbeaks were available, so all he had for thin seams were RURPS and bashees/copperheads. Way scary.
Birdbeaks, followed by Peckers, Toucans and now Tomahawks revolutionized what was reasonable and possible in the desert.
Some pics from a trip to Spain a few years back. The free climbing there is superb:
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Oct 11, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
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Sooooooo lame. What a jerkoff. Where are the shitters when you need them.
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Oct 13, 2012 - 05:02am PT
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Oct 14, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
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Any pictures of the damage Jeremy?
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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Oct 15, 2012 - 04:49am PT
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I was climbing, my friends, a thing that I usually do (instead of watching the routes with binoculars from the ground)...
Jeremy, you wrote "I just can only imagine", so "chalked up crack climb" is just an imagination, isn't it?
And in Hot parad'ice, you saw drilled heads every 20 feet? Just a clue, new videos on the net and no drilled heads, just peckers...
And by the way, no photos at all? The camera is broken, or there's no even need to prove anything, just write an opinion and wait for the faithful ovation of the American community?
I do think again that there's no way with you, Americans! Keep being the blind guardians of the Towers and increasing your imbred cofficient, dudes!
But at least try not telling lies...
Be well all of you, and try to discover the aid climbing routes in Picu Urriellu, even people from Russia go there to climb'em in winter!
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Oct 15, 2012 - 10:56pm PT
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Hi RIvet Hanger - Jeremy and I did indeed climb in the Fishers, but took a morning off to scope the new route on KingFisher. You may be misinformed because we did clearly see several holes with bashies in them on the start of the first pitch. The crack up high is interesting - we were never willing to do the drilling to get up to it. It is now all white and seriously looks like it is massively chalked from bottom to top. I know better though because it's an overhanging seam on Fisher Tower stone, so that would not be possible. Do you know what happened up there to cause that?
Crushers pictures, and my binocular inspection of "Look Out..." are very disturbing, as are the chain anchors installed by Richard that are clearly visible. If Pelut comes back to the Fishers I would ask him to contact me so I can share the sustainable tactics we use.
Paul
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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Oct 16, 2012 - 05:16am PT
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Hi Paul,
You've been there and not me, that's a fact, but in all the photos and videos I've seen (which, I insist, have absolutely public access on internet) don't tell exactly the same. It would be really interesting that Jeremy and you could upload some pics to accompany your explanations...
By the way, I'm glad to read a moderate condemnation of Jensen's actions and I think Pelut will be pleased to share a meeting with you, he has yet offered his hospitality if you come to Europe.
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raymond phule
climber
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Oct 16, 2012 - 05:18am PT
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(which, I insist, have absolutely public access on internet)
I tried to find those videos but couldn't find them. Can you link to the videos?
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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Oct 16, 2012 - 05:41am PT
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Come on Raymond, try it best!
It's really easy, just put the right words on Google. You know the name of the FA team, the name of the route and the Tower in which the adventure took place...
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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Oct 16, 2012 - 09:24am PT
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You mean the holes belonging to Pelut, the ones belonging to Jensen, the bolts and rivets belonging to Jensen, the mysterious holes on Intifada, the little holes drilled by the same Beyer or the bathooks on Wings of Steel?
All these questions have been treated before, just press previous on the right side of this thred and read...
By the way, keep improving your Google skills, perhaps you'll find even some pics...
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raymond phule
climber
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Oct 16, 2012 - 09:41am PT
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I meant the holes belonging to Pelut. You know the holes filled with bashies and other things. The holes on the route that this thread is about. I do not remember that you have made any clear statement about those holes but I might have missed them among all insults. I neither remember that Pelut has made any clear statements about those holes.
Maybe you don't know this but google works different in different countries and it seems to be much easier to find information about Peluts climbs when using the spanish google.
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raymond phule
climber
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Oct 16, 2012 - 09:44am PT
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I still don't really understand what the videos and a few pics prove. They just show a very small part of the route in question and there are only a few placement where it is clear what the placement is.
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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Oct 16, 2012 - 10:57am PT
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"The holes on the route this thread is about". Nothing about the holes made by Jensen and the shinning anchor chains...
I haven't neither seen any clear statment about the actions of Jensen on the route, or perhaps I haven't read'em because of the huge amount of taunt, jokes, cliché, lacks of respect and insults for the FA team. Jeremy and Paul haven't uploaded any pics of the final result of Jensen's actions, by the way, although Paul at least condemns a little bit this action. And they claim the new route seems a "chalked up" new route when seen from the ground. Any intention of repeting it and then talk. Why? Just go there, look it through binocles and give your opinion... Prejudice? But no surprise at all if we have in account that the first reaction of Aslaksen when he knows someone has made the SA of Weird Science is saying: I'll be there in a couple of weeks to check out Pelut's havoc on my route. Too much prejudice against no-american climbers and a huge feeling that Towers just belong to the little aid-climbing community, that's the problem since my point of view. But in fact, nothing new, it's all I have said since the beginning.
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raymond phule
climber
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Oct 16, 2012 - 11:09am PT
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Still no answer. Just red herrings about other routes and climbers.
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