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F
climber
away from the ground
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Burchy, you seem to think I was mocking V. I wasn't. My comment was about the anonymous local. The facetiousness was directed at our culture, not V. Like I said, a few times already...... I think V has potential, and it would be a shame to see him snuffed by an easily avoidable hazard.
V- That book is a good start, but I would really, really reccomend an AVY 1 class. And after that, a continuing education, focusing on human factor and decision making. I'll even split the cost of the class with you if you are willing to go to it, with an open "beginners mind".
Cheers V.
Burchy.... Well good luck out there. Because without knowledge and education, all you have is luck.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Duck for the Oyster, Hinky Dinky Parle Vous, and Irish Washerwoman.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Bravo V!
had a chance to go out today but I was already occupied... and it seems it wouldn't have been the best day...
thinking that next year I should just spend 2 weeks in the Valley from around this time for the brief window...
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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One can never be in total control ,
With real estate looming above.
Always warmer up top.
Soloing might be the safest way.
Congrats on a great climb vital and
To the other soloist also!
It would be awesome if it would just lock
Up and freeze in Yosemite ,
Always warming up it seems,
Just something like a squirrel
Jumping off a branch can trigger
A slide that will find its way to
The bottom .
I'm hoping for another freeze!
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SweetCrimp
Big Wall climber
Bay Area
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My girlfriend and I watched a party of three climbing the route Saturday. When did the soloist climb it? Now I feel like we missed out on something special.
Sorry, no photos. Congrats to all. Climbing the route is impressive. Looked thin to us, how was the climbing?
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Good Lord Burch; give it a rest.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Well, Burchy you are the Internet forum expert, so I'll take your advice.
After your slide experience, did you feel it would be prudent to aquire formal Avalanche education? Have you ever taken a formal Avalanche class? Or do you just know everything about internetting and snow safety inherently due to your superiority to the known universe?
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John Duffield
Mountain climber
New York
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Yay Vitaliy!!! Know when to hold 'em and when to fold 'em!!!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Burchy, you seem to think I was mocking V. I wasn't. My comment was about the anonymous local. The facetiousness was directed at our culture, not V.
Oh you shouldn't be worried about the lack of spray from the anonymous local. I heard of the event from two different people same day it went down. Yesterday, I heard about it from three people, two of which don't even know the guy. Obviously Werner knows who he is, so does D2R2. Spray can come in different forms, but will produce a similar result in the long run. Actually, a different result, as the lack of info leads to the audience to add their own twist to the story when they pass it on to own friends. Was interesting to hear about it from people who didn't know the story and hearing it from one of the guys who were on the route. :)
The community is not as big as some of you may think. From my experience, bullshit solos like the Red Dihedral and other Sierra classics, do happen and at times the ones that do it, leave the experience for their memories. I personally, mentioned publicly or to friends, only four solos I have done. One was the onsight of Evolution traverse car to car because it was a giant thing for me, other was a new route on Laurel, the Widow's Tears obviously and the Toulumne Triple, because I felt ashamed that I got my date and I lost on the approach to Cathedral peak (after hiking that trail in and out multiple times). Even though I'd classify the triple as a scramble rather than a real solo, I left out the coolest thing about that day, so that is only for me to know :) ...so the other soloing I do is mentioned no where and I don't write about it, nor do I sign the registers when I do it. Usually it happened when I had a day off mid week or did not have someone to climb with in the last few years before 2015. In 2015 I was occupied with other stuff that tired me out without much soloing. And honestly, I really like climbing with good people. When it comes to the BIG solos, it is not sprayed on the forum, it is sprayed about in the magazines. Have you heard of the guy who soloed the Cerro Torre and kept it to himself without anyone knowing? (it is kind of cool that the tears have less ascents than the Cerro Torre, even though the number of climbers here looking to do it is not small) Or did Mugs keep the Cassin solo to himself? Spray, don't spray, solo, don't solo..as someone said, climbing is like jerking off, fun for you but not as fun for others to hear about. I usually like to climb with friends. WT was my first ever solo on ice, an exciting intro. If there was another party at the base willing to climb with me or a friend that was available that day, I wouldn't have done it solo. I did it that way, because I wanted to climb the route...and as I said I did daydream about soloing it. I had the head from other things I have done, and the fitness from hanging on my ice tools with a weighted pack. :) There was a mix of things that led to the climb happening, day I don't regret. One of the best in my life. If a chunk of ice took me out, I got to a thin section that collapsed under my weight or I blew it otherwise, it would be a different story. But in that case, I wouldn't be the one worried about the outcome. :)
V- That book is a good start, but I would really, really reccomend an AVY 1 class. And after that, a continuing education, focusing on human factor and decision making. I'll even split the cost of the class with you if you are willing to go to it, with an open "beginners mind".
Cheers V.
F, you can have your opinion of me, but I DO keep an open mind. I do my best to learn on mistakes that others make, along with those I or my partners make. I begun to HIKE in beginning of 2010, so I do CONSIDER myself somewhat of a noob. I have done a ton of climbing and mountaineering since than, it counts for something, but it IS a short period of time in which it is hard to get things dialed. As the time in the mountains is important to comfort in the environment, the time seeing accidents happen will help one learn how to avoid them. As an example of me keeping my mind open, I will admit that I took a "Push your limits on lead" class in the GYM I go to. Most people wouldn't consider my head to be the weakness, but I think there is always something to learn, even from complete beginners I climb with at times. I also carry a grigri on all the backcountry routes I do now, as it adds safety. I know some trad climbers who frown when grigri is mentioned, as they think it is a gym thing. Whatever, it is a great tool that adds a little more safety to the system. Pass judgement,we all do in some way, but let's keep this thread on topic. It is REALLY cool IMO, and if this side stuff was discussed in a private email, the forum would not be viewed as a circus by many who do monitor it without posting. I personally like to read the stories like the ones Warbler, Chappy and countless others posted, along with the photos and updates. That is where the value is. Burchy and F, I'd be mega stoked if you guys exchanged emails and talked it out. Interpersonal communication is much more enjoyable outside a public forum, where all of our egos are at play in some way, no matter if we admit it to ourselves or not.
My girlfriend and I watched a party of three climbing the route Saturday. When did the soloist climb it? Now I feel like we missed out on something special.
You did not miss out, you saw the soloist :) The full story is interesting. But I will let others spray it. In whatever way they want.
Looked thin to us, how was the climbing?
One of the guys that climbed it Saturday, did it three years ago. If the forum was a bit more civilized maybe he would chime in with the comparison. From what I got, it was thinner this time around. Some spots had really thin ice and I was hitting rock. Not many, but in a few spots I had to trust pure edges where the ice broke off. There were spots of really weird orange cauliflowery stuff and some that were just icicles hanging from good ice above that had to be broken and really searched around for placements. The flow in spots is wide, I am sure ways people took were different. I will write about my experience in the full spray report when I get to it. :)
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Who cares if you solo something? They shouldn't. Soloing has been around since the first human climbed the first peak.
Talking about it or not talking about it is also stupid. Tell all that you want to about it.
I like hearing soloing stories. Some of them are great fun to hear.
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overwatch
climber
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Well written posts from Mr. Warbler and Mr. M. Great job and huge balls on the solo.
vvvvvvv yeah, mine would be sucked up inside me, bear attack style.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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It was more about having the clear mind and concentrating on the present at all times, rather than large balls. Those would likely get in the way. Smaller is better, light and fast! :)
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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You would know.
ZING!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sorry to bump the climbing thread again, but I totally forgot to mention...
I recovered a draw on WT. One of the parties likely dropped it. Unless a tourist was walking by and tossed a climbing draw off the rim. :) Send me an email so I can get it back to you! xxvitaliyxx@yahoo.com
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Was Trevor Anthes kicking around WT this season? I remember reading a cool report of his a few years ago on it with Kurt Wedberg I think and a few others. Good dude and a great climber.
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Wildincognito
climber
Eastside
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I haven't been back yet this year but might still- it looks great!
That report you speak of was an article I wrote but never found the right place to put it, so for now it just lives on my site. This thread seems like another great place for it to get lost.
Sorry I didn't make it into a proper TR but this was enough work as is.
Enjoy
http://www.wildincognito.com/Trips/CDI/n-B9C7m
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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THANKS for sharing that wildincognito!
SUPER!
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Planting the flag indeed!
Nice photos and stories incognito
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Hell yeah bud! that was it. Thanks.
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