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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2011 - 12:23am PT
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OK, last hold picture:
Please identify this problem (first hold):
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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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Feb 16, 2011 - 12:45am PT
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Stairway to Heaven?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2011 - 12:52am PT
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Lower down the road. Left side as walking up.
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Feb 16, 2011 - 12:59am PT
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You shouldn't post hints Henny. That makes it too easy.
edit: Don't Rock the Boat
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2011 - 01:30am PT
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Apparantly so. Correct.
I had some pictures of 3 or 4 thin cracks but they ended up being too tightly focused, needing more than the one jam for context. Lesson learned. My guess is Doug would have known them all anyway...
BTW: Is the preferred way to do Aids Victim starting down to the left? I walked by for a look-see on the way down and saw chalk over there. I'm pretty sure I only did the straight up start. Lucky I could even remember that, the crux is up high or someting, and is sorta almost face? Gotta get around to that again.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Feb 16, 2011 - 01:32am PT
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It's hard to know how "most" people do a problem since Woodson is so spread out. You only know how you and your friends do it. Most people I've seen do Aids Victim start higher for the direct start. I've started down low once, but it was kinda contrived and the addition climbing isn't that hard.
Josh
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Feb 16, 2011 - 01:42am PT
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I think the people that are climbing that flake are TRing the little .10 variation that goes up to the horizontal. Or they're just traversing around. On sunday that chalk was caked on there though.
As Josh said most people just start right underneath the seam. How 'bout highballing that thing? The landing isn't THAT bad.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2011 - 01:57am PT
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My other question was, since I can't remember exactly, where is the crux and what is it? Face or thin? There's some pretty large looking face holds down low. And of course I didn't think to look at the deck for a possible highball impact. Why the capped "THAT" Eliot? Just the distance?
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Feb 16, 2011 - 02:16am PT
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Well comparing it to some of the other highballs on Woodson that landing is actually not too bad. And I think it could be padded well enough. The distance from the top would be a problem though and I do remember the moves up there being very tenuous.
I think the crux though, if I remember correctly, is having a crimp left hand, getting a tips jam with the right, matching it, then going up to a right hand crimp to the right of the seam then stepping out onto the face from underneath the overlap. But there's another move getting your right foot onto the crimp higher up with only tips jams. That's a cool one, I'll have to get on it again. Maybe others'll chime in too about the crux, Doug?
To answer your question though it's more face than thin. The crimps are good but your feet are undercut.
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blr
climber
socal
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Feb 16, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
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BTW, the rope looks so tight on Cast that my grandmother could get up it in her wheelchair.
Isn't that the whole point of being on toprope? To get hauled up climbs too hard so that you can pose for pictures? Trust me, I know what I'm talking about... I saw a video about this. BTW, granny sent next try after switching to the Stealth C4 wheels... and then she kicked my a$$ in bingo. She won't be invited again.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 16, 2011 - 04:20pm PT
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Ok...the "tan boulder" "on the left" "after Lie Detector" and "before Seminar" must be "The Spud" but that knob still is a mystery unless you're talking about the left end of the south face which has a couple of big knobs to downclimb off of. I just did that in the earlier video posted and don't recall a knob of that config/size at the start?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2011 - 04:29pm PT
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It is for sure on the "The Spud", thanks for reminding me of the name. It is the knob most directly above when standing on the start boulder. Dead obvious knob. There are a few more knobs to the left of it. The knob is zoomed in, which probably gives it a different look. The knob can't be reached from the start, it would require moves to get to it.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 16, 2011 - 04:35pm PT
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On another note: the "crux on Aids Victim has changed since Chris Lindner visited it last year at the shindig. It had been years (probably half of Chris' life or more since he visited it last. He commented, "I remember the boulder being bigger the last I saw it." I replied, "That's because you were probably half the size your are now Chris!" Anyhow, he TR'd the problem using ONLY the seam! When I lowered him he scoped out the line and found the face holds. "Maybe if I would have used those it would have been easier," Chris nonchalantly commented. No sooner than after touching ground he was back up on it, this time, with the added face holds. "Now that was a bit smoother that time," he adds.
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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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Feb 16, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
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I was goofing around on Sunday afternoon Saturday (what!!) A group of guys where taking turns getting hauled up aids victim. And using chalk to mark any possible holds. it went like Let me mark this hand hold then pull me to the next. See I can climb. see my chalk.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2011 - 09:28pm PT
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Please identify this problem:
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 16, 2011 - 10:48pm PT
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I'm clueless on that one...then again, what's new? Is that last photo the top part of the first photo...same side?
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Dimes
Social climber
Thinking about Retirement
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Feb 16, 2011 - 10:57pm PT
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That is your new problem that you just did under the guise of secrecy.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 17, 2011 - 03:01am PT
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Henny...that looks like an enlarged version of this at Santee:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTr3QscVMDc
Speaking of, would you and John be interested in a little Santee tour? I think you guys would eat that place up! Seriously, let me be your consumate guide!
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
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Feb 17, 2011 - 03:07am PT
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I know that rock. F-n hard moves.
Henny, forever goes up the ramp then heads right and up.
Probably 11.c like every other problem on that rock.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Feb 17, 2011 - 07:42am PT
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Darrell Hensel, The Master, strikes again and climbs possibly the hardest face at Woodson. "Thin is in and small says it all, keep crankin those dimes" Great job Darrell!
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