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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Feb 24, 2009 - 01:13pm PT
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Red Planet bump. MisterE?
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Feb 25, 2009 - 02:12am PT
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and again
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2009 - 02:20am PT
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OK, I DID find a picture of it -
Credit to the Munky of Steel:
There are others, but i can't post them.
I've already gotten myself in trouble.
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
b.c.c
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Feb 27, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
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Interesting place this arid zona, after a snow out in cochise the three weary canucks and their Nevada bretheren head to organ pipe,purported to be the "warmest place in Arizona". The chosen route, an amazing choss pile called montezuma's head.
All goes well on this New year's eve ascent, the crux being the swarming border patrol. Loose rock and route finding aside It'ol lets us pass. Sonoyta has an after route blowout, complete with machine gun fire(new years and all)and the campsite in organ pipe(barely heard of climbers)provides awesome camping(1000yr old pack rat nest in saguaro).The two events that mark it as exceptional, occur during meals on the road. First is breakfast in Sells. After silencing the place by coming in(not too many whiteys in here) we get food. The wobbling table and sloping floors are cool but the lack of silverware is disconcerting. A request for some, is met with the response "out here on the res. we use our fingers" Huh? The second interesting situation is after our climb (New years day) we eat breakfast in Why, don't ask.
The restraunt, surrounded by trailers, is an abandoned DQ occupied by locals. The walls were decorated with very large longerie, the waitress was toting a two year old and the cook was wearing a side arm(WTF). Any how seems trivial in the read but it was all better than wilcox. cheers
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 28, 2009 - 07:41pm PT
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Pika the dog was pretty sharp. Once at a party in Flag, I made an offhand joke about giving him a lobotomy. Pika strolled over, put one paw on my knee and set his head squarely atop it. He looked me right in the eye until I apologized and went back across the room and laid down. Uncanny incident for a smart dog!
All bets were off if you happened to be below on a dog friendly downclimb and Pika got the urge!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Colin Cox
Dr. Rubo's
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Just got back from seven days in Sedona- fantastic. Five days on sandstone and two on basalt and never saw another climber. Want to have fun- go do Arch Enemies.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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What's the scoop with Arch Enemy?
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2009 - 02:03am PT
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"from the guide":
Description
Located on the formation up the ridge from The Flying Buttress. This classic route climbs over a large V-forming arch for six pitches.
Directions
Drive 3.5 miles up Schnebly Hill Road to large gravel lot on the right. Cross the road and head South on the Cowpies Trail over large patches of slickrock. Traverse left and under the formation on single-track trail.
Past Archenemy, one can head further West for the Flying Buttress routes, Technicolor and Epitaph.
Route beta
Double 0.5"- 3", (1)-3.5", (1)-4". P1: fingers to O/W (5.9), p2: Left past thin crack to exposed bolted face (5.11-), P3: Hands thru roof traverse Left at bolt (5.10), p4: many bolts to bombay squeeze p5: bolted traverse to right, p.6: Short 5.10 crner to O/W, then 4th class. Two-rope rappel.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 10, 2009 - 11:24am PT
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Still no takers for Depthcharge on Submarine Rock??? Great route, easy approach and no mistaking the formation! LOL
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 10, 2009 - 11:56am PT
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Drljefe- The description sent by Mr.E looks good. The 11- on pitch 2 is short and well protected. Pitch 4 is the business- sustained 5.10 bolted face to the 5.11+ crack followed by some 11- into a flare. The crux has a bolt at face level. Enjoy!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 10, 2009 - 12:01pm PT
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Just looked at my description of Arch Enemies- coffee must not have kicked in. The crux is a face move not crack climbing.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Mar 10, 2009 - 12:03pm PT
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Thanks guys, sounds good. Erik have you done it? Bob J?
I must admit, I'm kinda sweatin' the coin toss...
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Brian Boyd
Trad climber
Scottsdale, AZ
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Mar 10, 2009 - 12:37pm PT
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An assortment of crags from the most recent download of my digital.
Mt. Lemmon -- unknown cliff, unknown route (we were lost):
Sullivan's Canyon
Racking up for Sword of Damoclese, 11a OW
Adam plugging away
Distant Vision -- 10b with lots of small gear
Jack's Canyon -- Lydia on Six Shooter, 12a
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bob
climber
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Mar 10, 2009 - 01:21pm PT
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Jefe, haven't done it, but Trout and I have been keen!(sp?) The line looks fantastic. Evan and I went out there to do Miami once and had some weather issues. Next time we went to do it it was gone. GONE! Why don't Trout, myself and yoself do it together? Move discussion to phone or email.
West Ridge homey. Cuando? You stay at my village. You no pay.
Bob J.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
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Thanks for the info update, Jim. Duly noted
Hey, I wanna play! Err...not on Depthcharge, Steve...LOL! :^]
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Adam Mayhem
Trad climber
LHC, AZ
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Mar 10, 2009 - 05:08pm PT
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"Too bad Arizona is so close to California;..... "
Being a native Zonie, I have this thought everyday.
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sweatyballs
Trad climber
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Mar 10, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
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Here is a cool one from several weeks ago in Sedona (Mars Attacks). Mike Esparza (me) gripped out leading on two 8mm ropes and my bro Dan Cohen belaying.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 29, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
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MisterE- you can do the second pitch of Depth Charge at 10a or so and a nice crack to the top of the conning tower! The first pitch is 10+ and exciting with a classic limestone overhang problem to pull above the waterline onto easier ground.
A Peter Noebels photo of Paul Davidson powering up New Wave 12a on an early repeat. As the name implies, a wave of airy clip and go testpieces were not long in coming. This is one of the most striking lines at Windy Point.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 29, 2009 - 07:33pm PT
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Bump it it's gud!
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