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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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May 19, 2011 - 05:38pm PT
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WTF does it matter? The end of days is in two anyway.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 19, 2011 - 05:46pm PT
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All the hook moves have been washed away ......
Finally, an honest assessment of the outlandish scale of the 'chiseling' made during the FA. My guess is they were washed away a year or two after the FA.
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kaitb
Big Wall climber
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FACT: 2 pitches down bitches! Ammon & Kait
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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Hey, if you want to climb on the Giganto Slab, Have at it.
I dunno. Cheers, though.
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Gene
climber
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Dang. In this weather that slab must feel like the world's biggest tanning oven.
My best to all involved.
g
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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FACT; Nice :)
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SofCookay
climber
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FACT: New 3/8 inch bolts on first pitch of WOS. Coincidence?
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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I am pretty sure I saw several new 3/8 inch bolts on P.1 of that route a few weeks ago, and just brought it up to Tom Evans a few days ago to try to figure out what was going on.
Ammon and Kait, are you replacing the rivets with 3/8 inch bolts on this route?
Kate
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SofCookay
climber
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Not a troll - the bolts are definitely there - shiny and new.
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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I have never trolled anyone on the internet, and I use my real name. I was up there to climb Lurking Fear a few weeks ago, and several shiny 3/8 inch bolts were on the first 50 feet of P1.
I thought maybe someone was be trying to free it, and asked Tom about it at the bridge two days ago.
All he had to say was "Its not the usual suspect."
Kate
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Which "P1" were the bolts on? I ask because AFAIK, there are two starts/variations (and thus two"P1") of the route.
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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It is the "real" start, the more direct first pitch.
-Kate.
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Hmm the plot thickens once again. Agree bad form by adding the new hardware
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BASE1361
climber
Yosemite Valley National Park
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Piss on me Pete and Tom were up there years ago as well. You could hear Pete's hammer from Moby Dick drill'n away. Ammon made it to the first 2-3? pitches and Pete used Ammon's rope to TR the pitches. Sounds like Pete put some weak sauce in his breakfast that morning. TR Ammon's rope to climb A5 is like shooting a tiger in a zoo. Where's the challenge??
Any Drill'n ask Pete. Ammon and Kait are not up there drill'n on the route.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Adding or replacing? There is a difference.
Prod.
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Pete was up there with Richard and Mark (and their permission), replacing the original (old) rivits with rivits IIRC a few years ago. The route was still sporting those same rivits at the end of last year.
Is it possible that Pete was up there this year? I don't think so. However, nothing is impossible. Still, the bolts were up just two days after Pete came down from the epic with David, because I carried loads and saw the bolts the day after the rain stopped.
I cannot imagine that Ammon would do this without FA permission, anyway. We will have to wait to hear from them or from whoever did it to know.
Kate
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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No one's EVER shown outright contempt for Richard or Mark before, have they?
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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I agree, there must to be more to this story than the current team (or someone working with them) bolting without FA permission. I know one other guy on this site that tried the route and claimed the first 2 pitches two years ago, but he left the rivets, did not replace with bolts.
Maybe some other attempt was about to happen, they replaced the hardware and the current team jumped at the opportunity?
Kate
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