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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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whoever missed jb's story of the bachar yearian in the latest alpinist(26) should check it out. it is the story of one of the greatest adventures in the history of rock climbing. it is the first time i had ever heard john's rendition of this epic journey(although i had heard yerians campfire rendition). strange that he would write this tale just before his passing. I'll miss you john, you were a true inspiration, and a fellow blonde at that. ciao, steve schneider
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jstan
climber
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Dylan Thomas' poem on going gently into that good night strikes a chord
in us all, surely. And earlier in Lester Germer I had seen a person who had
decided not to change, even for a day, the way they wanted to live. But still.......
With continued existence we all have new opportunities to contribute. And
since the end ultimately comes whether we wish it or not, in the last analysis
what we want no longer controls.
Even so it is still possible for one, as they are being drawn away, yet to reach
back and to try to build....
This is a terrible loss.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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I am in Venezuela now, with family. Yesterday I did little but trowl through these threads. The memories I have of JB just kept flooding my mind, made all the more powerful because the best ones, the strong ones came down when we both were teenagers.
Like going to his Mom´s house to snag JB on the way out to Tahquitz, and having a sit down with her (because I was the older and `famous´one - ha) to establish that JB was capible, safe and sane. Or the time his dad accompanied JB up to Yosemite with the proviso that JB could only climb 200 feet - then he had to rap off - a rule we broke straightaway by climbing Reed´s Direct. And out at Josh, discovering So High, White Rastafarian, and a thousand other problems. Cajoling JB up his first freesolo (Doublecross), which was like releasing a shark into the ocean. Driving out to Colorado to meet Gill, and doing all the problems on the Mental Block, Eliminator boulder, soloing the Gill Crack and scaring the crap out of each other, bagging the sensational stuff down in Pueblo like the Ripper Traverse and all the rest. And all along, slowly but surely, easing into higballing (then just watching JB soar so far above the rest of us we could only watch in awe and wonder).
And taking JB and Kauk up their first big wall - The Gold Wall, which we almost did all free, in four or five hours. Doing Astroman, running laps on Butterballs and New D., going to jazz concerts, smoking bushels of ragweed, working out like fiends, pounding nails with Burton and Sutton, climbing in Mexico, drinking Mescal and swallowing the worm in the bottom of the bottle, haggling over girlfriends, soloing fifty routes in a day out at Josh - and wanting to grab JBs leg when I got TOTALLY sketched on a grainy 5.10 face about a mile off the deck, driving crap motorcycles from LA to Yosemite and watching JB duct tape the throttle wide open, bouldering each other into the ground at Roubidoux and Stoney, and just last week, 35 years later, working on a story for the Stonemaster book.
All of these things I must now let go . . .
In three hours, my youngest daughter graduates from high school, then jets off to Germany as a foreign exchange student. Life goes on. The youth take over the world, just as John and I charged into our own BITD. When I recently wrote that John was one of the greatest adventure sport athletes of the last century, I meant it. But more than that, JB was a part of my life. I´m reminded of the lines by Young that Rich Goldstone posted earlier (as always, thanks, RG) -
What if I live no more those kingly days?
their night sleeps with me still.
Goodnight, sweet prince.
John
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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" ...which was like releasing a shark into the ocean... "
Awesome.
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ZoeBachar
climber
Los Angeles
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When my dad first told me the news,I couldn't stop crying. I loved my uncle very much, he was a great guy, quick to laugh, and always thought of others. Tyrus, I'm so sorry for your loss, and know were all here for you. Rest in Peace, you will be greatly missed.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Man, what a blow. I was so stoked to check out the taco this morning after an incredible trip this weekend which I was going to write up into a trip report. Then I see this thread on the front page, my heart sank, my eyes teared and I worked my way through the thread.
Like many hear, John was an inspiration to me as a climber. I could fully appreciate what he could do, even though I could no way approach what he was capable of doing.
I met him about 20 years ago briefly at a climbing shoe demo day put on by 5.10 at Donner Summit. And that was it until I found the taco and got in touch with John via e-mails. We discussed ethics and it really formented for me what mattered and how to approach climbing. I had a vhs copy of a tv segment of him soloing Oz in Tuolumne. He said that when his house burned down he lost his copy of that segment, and he was unable to find anyone that had a copy of it. So I had it burned to a dvd and fired it off to him. I'd talked about climbing with him in the future as we were planning to head down and visit family in so-cal. He said just get in touch with him and we'd hook up.
But I digress. I'd sent John a picture of this granite dome and saying we should go climb it. Probably much more of a dream than reality, but John was always motivated to climb.
And that's where we headed this weekend. I thought I'd do some climbing with the family, but the trip was shortened and ended up as just hanging out at the beach getting sun burned and trying an approach to the dome for recon. We didn't even get to the base for good photos, but I did spend some time scoping it from binoculars and seeing some amazing features that I've never seen on a granite formation. I was totally stoked to zoom in the digital photos and send them off to John.
I'd also been working on getting up to Alaska to do one of his slide shows. We'd been trying to figure out a venue, and then I'd been in touch with Simon trying to pull it off. But sadly all thos plans are now gone.
John truly was an inspiration as a climber, because he had a wisdom about climbing. He boiled it down to the essence, you start at the bottom and you go to the top. That may sound like a cliche but it really does take wisdom to boil something down to it's essence. John will be greatly missed because he was so much more than just a great climber. He was a great man, as testament by the writings of his friends, acquaintances and admirers.
We'll miss you John, but we won't forget you.
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DanaB
climber
Philadelphia
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I've often wondered what it was that I was reaching for, what was it I was trying to see and understand when I gave my heart and soul - so many times for so many years - to these rocks. Perhaps John B. would know.
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cup
Social climber
ca
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My mind has just been wandering since I recieved a call on Sunday, about someone falling at the Dike Wall. They thought it could be Bacher. I immediately called Johns phone. My heart sank when Tyrus answered the phone, something I was completely unprepared for. I was at a complete loss for words. Tyrus handled the call with a composure way beyond his 12 years and showed a concern for my loss.
My first memories of john are from 87 when I was just getting into climbing. He would solo around Hidden valley at the end of the day. Often it would be John and Peter Croft, and to me it was show. He was a god.
I got to know John when he moved to the Eastside after his house burned down in Foresta. We started hanging out the first winter he was here. There was only a handful of guys that were consistantly climbing in the Gorge through the winter. So it didn't take long before we became friends.
He saw that I had an interest in photography and asked me if I wanted to take some photos of hom soloing in the gorge. I was really impressed by his keen understanding of climbing photography. He taught me alot of the techniques he used while working with Phil Bard. Phils shot of John soloing Oz is one of my favorites. I think John told me the original was lost, what a shame. He took me to Spain to document some of his climbs there near the Boreal factory. In a way our photography relationship came full circle when I talked him into photographing my wedding.
He taught me about Jazz.
Driving with John could be quite an experience, especially over to the Valley and back. Or in Spain, in a car with no seat belts on highways without speed limits. He probably would have done well if given the chance to race cars at some level.
I had the privilage of hearing first hand all his climbing stories. On sight soloing the Moratorium, Patagonia with Bridwell and Graham, freeing Astroman are just a few.
He called me from Vegas after he soloed the Gift the first time and wanted me to come take some photos the next time he did it. I came down the next week and brought my wife,(at that time my girl friend). We went out to the Gallery early in the morning when the light would be best for the shot John wanted. Nobody else was at the crag yet. John warmed up on some easier climbs then he soloed the gift. My wife said to me something like," What's the big deal about that. That didn't look hard!". A few hours later she had a different perspective. After watching numerous people work the the route with out a single redpoint she said," I think I understand now". He made everything he did look so easy.
His climbing spoke for itself. To me that was just a part of John. There was so much more to him than his amazing climbing ability.
I remember his excitement about becoming a father. There was hardly a time I saw John that he did not speak of Tyrus.
Ours lives went in different directions during these last years . I would only see him at the post office or market, but often we would end up talking for 10 or 20 minutes. He was a genuine man and friend. I will miss him.
I know I am running on but this is my way of saying good bye to an old friend who will be greatly missed. Good bye, John.
John McDonald
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Two years ago I lost my friend Michael Reardon. John Bachar spoke at his memorial @ Malibu SP.
Most of the stories of Michael were somber and it was sad to hear the family and friends crying at these remembrances.
When John spoke to the crowd and began to recollect the times he and Micheal had spent together, the mood changed dramatically. Through his words, the entire crowd recognized the friendship Michael and John had shared. He talked of how he admired his friend and how he thought Michael was "the real deal". People were nodding and smiling at the wonderful stories.
John brought back a part of Michael that day. The part that brimmed with enthusiasm and passion. He was able to channel the positive energy and happiness that existed between he and Micheal.
This was a moment I will never forget. A friend speaking dearly and truthfully of his care for another. A true friend with no agenda other than to pay homage to a beloved comrade.
It was an example of class and respect. To me, this is what made John Bachar a great man.
-wayne
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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What modern rock climber hasn't been influenced by John Bachar? I shared the same hometown of Joshua Tree with John for many years;.....seems like the barren desert with unlimited climbing and bouldering suited him just fine. I can't tell you how many times I saw him driving his Toyota 4-runner up to the Park....usually alone for a workout, solo session, or to explore. Playing music with Donny, Big Al, Bachar, Mike Paul, and John at the first big Access Fund gathering in Joshua Tree community center;...playing music at a New Years Eve party for hours at Karen's house in Joshua Tree.....Party in his funk/rap stage.....playing the piano for maybe 4 hours straight with John on the sax....stopping only to open another beer, and not more than a handful of words spoken;....only music, the late hour, eyes barely open slits but minds awake and alive as the music flowed like a river. Working on a certain jazz riff...again and again and again and again until we got it or grew tired of it...... Looking through telescopes at the stars and moon at Ryan campground with John and others on a night when the sky screamed out a million dots of light;...a site the city folk seemed blow away by, but the desert rats take for granite. John taking pictures of Kurt Smith on the FA of Black Out in Tuoloume Meadows while Lechlinski, Mari and I watched in amazement as Kurt ran it out , stopping every 30 or so feet to hang on one hook to hand drill a 1/4 in. bolt. John watching 10 people fail on Asteroid crack,...not taking his turn though, because he was recovering from an injury;....going to to John's "secret" workout area at the "secret" Gunsmoke area.....seeing a Bachar ladder, pulleys connected to metal drums filled with sand , and that now famous traverse... Sitting on top of Intersection Rock and having John show me these new shoes called Fires that he got in Spain, and how they were better than EB's.....(yeah;....SURE........) Bachar joking around while soloing Right V crack in Indian Cove, while some tourist trys to "talk him through it..."......Visiting John's place in Mammoth with the wild super-high climbing wall and workout area;....John doing extreme workouts at the gyms in Yucca Valley;..the pullups with weights around his waist. ......hearing Little Al describe taking photos of Bachar soloing Father Figure twice and making it look 5.7.....and Bachar's girl-friends/wife.....Brenda, Stephanie, Jean, Val, Anestasia,.......(I'm sure I missed a few there....)......visiting John and Stephanie at their place in W. Yucca years ago......and yeah; ...watching him float up Left Ski track on Intersection and then up the huecoed face right of Upper Right Ski Track time and time again............The beers, cigarettes, reefer, .......the diliberate and static way John climbed.....Soloing The Gift in Vegas;.....what if a hold breaks?.....John replied;.....I don't pull on the holds;.....only pinch them...........Trade shows, slide shows, parties, magazines, Yosemite, Joshua Tree, Eastside, Tuolumne, ........he set the bar, he established the rules, he walked the walk.......a big influence in my life. ......Now a days, the best climber in the World changes week to week, month to month, magazine issue to magazine issue, climb to climb, ......when I was growing up.....it was John Bachar;...best climber in the World;....period......year after year after year after year after year..........Rest in peace, my friend;...you will be greatly missed by many, and your influence and spirit and inspiration rages on with strength, power, and pride.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Just when I was getting into climbing there was the Boreal ad with Bachar and Croft after the HD - El Cap linkup, "two jokers and a pair of Aces"
I loved that ad - the climbers weren't posed, they were wearing ragged shirts, having fun, loving life. I went out and got some Aces. Still using the same pair ~20 years and ~10 resoles later.
Thanks JB. You made my climbing better.
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GibO
Trad climber
Breckenridge
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Wow, bad news.
Somehow concerns of this sort of thing happening with JB left a long time ago.
Glad I was able to see him in Boulder a couple of months ago and rekindle an old, deep friendship.
Gib Lewis
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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I am so sorry to hear of John's passing. He was a huge inspiration to me. I still have that magazine article of him somewhere, the one with Michael Jackson on the cover.
My condolences to John's friends and family.
Peter Zabrok
Ontario, Canada
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poop_tube
Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
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Legends never die. You'll always be remembered and thanked for all you have left us.
Kia
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Mark Not-circlehead
Boulder climber
Martinez, CA
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John wasn't a friend to me, he was a legend.
I met him several times, he was one of the individuals in life that you meet that shine brighter than the rest of us. I am truly saddened by the loss.
I was friends with Valerie, a lifetime ago. I hope she, and her and John's son find some solace during these sad times.
Mark.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Zoe, thanks for coming to the campfire, to join us in the great gathering. We were hoping you'd arrive.....
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rookers
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Though we only met a few times during my time in CA in the mid-80s, his influence on the way I approached the sport and my own efforts in it was immeasurable.
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darin
climber
mammoth lakes
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i have been out of town for the last few days and i cant believe this.....i grew up in mammoth and now live in humboldt which is where val (his ex) and his son now live....his poor lil boy....so sad
i am not a climber, but john was one of the 1st peopl i ever played music with....what an amazing sax player......later on i found out about his climbing and coulndt believe he did what he did without ropes....he told me "we are all gonna die.....and when i go i hope it is on a rock"
its crazy because i was at a music festival this weekend talking with vals boss from here telling her that exact story.....on sunday morning
he was a great musician, dad, and climber.....but mostly he was a great guy.
the climbing world and mammoth especially will miss him....mammoth is very small and when we lose someone the whole community mourns
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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I was hoping to meet him at one of the upcoming Stonemaster slide shows. I never met JB but I have admired his life in its entirety.
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