Arizona Climbing Appreciation thread

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pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Feb 21, 2009 - 09:13pm PT
Damn, little Pikie, I gotta shed a tear for the dog that wouldn't die.

First, he's gets run over by a Jeep. Was it twice as you backed up to see what you'd hit ?

Then, while doing the Silver Pond down climb at the Forks, I'm standing down on the rock below the third class (what, 15 feet of 5.7 or something like that ?) when Pika decides he's going to come down without his normal rope. He's coming down head first and slams onto the ledge right next to me.

Now to this day, I'm falsely accused of trying to drown that dog. I just did what any good physicist would.
I tried to help conserve his momentum so that he wouldn't expend it all on the splat onto the ledge.

I just gave him a little Tai Chi move towards the water.

It's really amazing how long a dog can stay under water when he's jumped down a 20 feet problem and then sailed another 15 feet through the air.

He was under for what seemed like a very long time.

I was starting think I'd finally done the impossible and killed Pika when bubbles started showing up and finally up pops Pika, snorting and wiggling.

For some reason, that dog avoided me for the rest of the day.

But I'm convinced I saved his life or at the very least, kept him from breaking his legs.

Here's a toast to Pika the wonder dog.
The Alpineer mascot, he'd jump out of the back of a moving pick up, with a chain on in order to go after another dog.

We should all be so lucky to have his adventures and then die of old age.
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 22, 2009 - 10:46am PT
pika, what a cool dog , reminds me of another amazing climbing dog, the famous knocko- " c'mon knocko!!"
ericz

climber
Ogden, UT
Feb 23, 2009 - 03:14pm PT

One fond recollection of AZ,.. circa early 1980's. Departing Tucson, after a winter of walking the streets, and sleeping on friend's patios,.. I headed out west of town. Hitching across the Pima reservation,.. it took all day, with a heavy spring rain quenching/drenching the cacti and adobes. Finally, around nightfall I took shelter in an abandoned gas station, just north of Organ Pipes NM.
The next morning,.. sweeping back the sands of sleep, I was greeted with an amazing sunrise. Brilliant and warm. The day was stretched forth, with my footfalls carried across a soft carpet of desert wildflowers. The vastness of the land juxtaposed with the myraid of small plant forms radiant and alive with their blooms,.. was beautiful. The aroma of the blossoms and wet earth,.. truely a living thing.
To all the oldtimers and the newcomers, happy trails.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Feb 23, 2009 - 05:44pm PT
I'm hearing that southern drawl echoing down forgotten neural pathways.

Zeiche stretches
With sun a smile arises
The day moves on
Gobi

Trad climber
Orange CA
Feb 23, 2009 - 07:14pm PT
Anyone have any photos of that climb Red Planet at Sedona?
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Feb 24, 2009 - 01:13pm PT
Red Planet bump. MisterE?
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Feb 25, 2009 - 02:12am PT
and again
MisterE

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2009 - 02:20am PT
OK, I DID find a picture of it -

Credit to the Munky of Steel:


There are others, but i can't post them.

I've already gotten myself in trouble.

kinnikinik

Trad climber
b.c.c
Feb 27, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
Interesting place this arid zona, after a snow out in cochise the three weary canucks and their Nevada bretheren head to organ pipe,purported to be the "warmest place in Arizona". The chosen route, an amazing choss pile called montezuma's head.
All goes well on this New year's eve ascent, the crux being the swarming border patrol. Loose rock and route finding aside It'ol lets us pass. Sonoyta has an after route blowout, complete with machine gun fire(new years and all)and the campsite in organ pipe(barely heard of climbers)provides awesome camping(1000yr old pack rat nest in saguaro).The two events that mark it as exceptional, occur during meals on the road. First is breakfast in Sells. After silencing the place by coming in(not too many whiteys in here) we get food. The wobbling table and sloping floors are cool but the lack of silverware is disconcerting. A request for some, is met with the response "out here on the res. we use our fingers" Huh? The second interesting situation is after our climb (New years day) we eat breakfast in Why, don't ask.
The restraunt, surrounded by trailers, is an abandoned DQ occupied by locals. The walls were decorated with very large longerie, the waitress was toting a two year old and the cook was wearing a side arm(WTF). Any how seems trivial in the read but it was all better than wilcox. cheers
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 28, 2009 - 07:41pm PT
Pika the dog was pretty sharp. Once at a party in Flag, I made an offhand joke about giving him a lobotomy. Pika strolled over, put one paw on my knee and set his head squarely atop it. He looked me right in the eye until I apologized and went back across the room and laid down. Uncanny incident for a smart dog!

All bets were off if you happened to be below on a dog friendly downclimb and Pika got the urge!
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Mar 9, 2009 - 11:32pm PT
Colin Cox

Dr. Rubo's
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 9, 2009 - 11:36pm PT
Just got back from seven days in Sedona- fantastic. Five days on sandstone and two on basalt and never saw another climber. Want to have fun- go do Arch Enemies.
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Mar 9, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
What's the scoop with Arch Enemy?
MisterE

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2009 - 02:03am PT
"from the guide":

Description
Located on the formation up the ridge from The Flying Buttress. This classic route climbs over a large V-forming arch for six pitches.

Directions
Drive 3.5 miles up Schnebly Hill Road to large gravel lot on the right. Cross the road and head South on the Cowpies Trail over large patches of slickrock. Traverse left and under the formation on single-track trail.

Past Archenemy, one can head further West for the Flying Buttress routes, Technicolor and Epitaph.


Route beta
Double 0.5"- 3", (1)-3.5", (1)-4". P1: fingers to O/W (5.9), p2: Left past thin crack to exposed bolted face (5.11-), P3: Hands thru roof traverse Left at bolt (5.10), p4: many bolts to bombay squeeze p5: bolted traverse to right, p.6: Short 5.10 crner to O/W, then 4th class. Two-rope rappel.



Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 10, 2009 - 11:24am PT
Still no takers for Depthcharge on Submarine Rock??? Great route, easy approach and no mistaking the formation! LOL
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 10, 2009 - 11:56am PT
Drljefe- The description sent by Mr.E looks good. The 11- on pitch 2 is short and well protected. Pitch 4 is the business- sustained 5.10 bolted face to the 5.11+ crack followed by some 11- into a flare. The crux has a bolt at face level. Enjoy!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 10, 2009 - 12:01pm PT
Just looked at my description of Arch Enemies- coffee must not have kicked in. The crux is a face move not crack climbing.
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Mar 10, 2009 - 12:03pm PT
Thanks guys, sounds good. Erik have you done it? Bob J?
I must admit, I'm kinda sweatin' the coin toss...
Brian Boyd

Trad climber
Scottsdale, AZ
Mar 10, 2009 - 12:37pm PT
An assortment of crags from the most recent download of my digital.

Mt. Lemmon -- unknown cliff, unknown route (we were lost):



Sullivan's Canyon

Racking up for Sword of Damoclese, 11a OW


Adam plugging away


Distant Vision -- 10b with lots of small gear



Jack's Canyon -- Lydia on Six Shooter, 12a


bob

climber
Mar 10, 2009 - 01:21pm PT
Jefe, haven't done it, but Trout and I have been keen!(sp?) The line looks fantastic. Evan and I went out there to do Miami once and had some weather issues. Next time we went to do it it was gone. GONE! Why don't Trout, myself and yoself do it together? Move discussion to phone or email.
West Ridge homey. Cuando? You stay at my village. You no pay.
Bob J.
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