Old mystery pro

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healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 11, 2016 - 08:32am PT
I thought a number five was among the ones I sent...?
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Mar 11, 2016 - 08:40am PT
No Joseph, but you did so much for me at that time. Without you (and David) the "Porter Nuts Museum" would not exist...
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 11, 2016 - 11:20am PT
Nutstory, excusez-moi, je sais que mon français est horrible.
La femme est française, pas moi! ;-)
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Mar 11, 2016 - 05:46pm PT
Thanks for the info guys.

How about the the year of the Metolius and Lowe sliders? Any help there?


Here are some cams:

I am pretty sure these are early cams. Any help would be great.

healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 12, 2016 - 12:37am PT
Rigged west coast.
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Mar 12, 2016 - 12:46am PT
1st and 2nd photograph:
Associate ½ made by Dave Altman, Rob Oravetz and Eben Stromquist (mid eighties). A real treasure…
3rd photograph:
Colorado Custom Hardware Alien 1st generation (1987)
4th photograph:
Wild Country Flexible Friend / Technical Friend #1½ (1988). Axle with low profile end-screws.
5th photograph:
Large cam device with rigid stem #6 made by Dave Altman, Rob Oravetz and Eben Stromquist (mid eighties).
6th photograph (left to right):
- Wild Country Friend #½ 1st generation (1986) thick titanium stem.
- Custom made ‘Friend-like” #0.75 by a long time valley climber and journeyman machinist. I am sorry, I do not know more about this cam (I have a similar sample).
- Wild Country Friend #½ 2nd generation (1986, yes!) thin titanium stem.
- HB Cam #½ 2nd generation (1982) made by Malcolm Matheson (aka Horsham Bruce) in Australia.
- Wild Country Friend #1 (1978) thin trigger bar and flat thin machine nuts.

Without the devices in hand I am not 100% sure…

Edit: The Metolius Sliders hit the market in 1983.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 12, 2016 - 05:30am PT
All these are great and I'm glad I was able to help out yours and the other collections. This is also a pretty cool aspect of the internet, that all our various flotsam and detritus can surface to be swept up and preserved. I don't have the discipline or time for it, but am thankful guys like you, Marty, Steve, Jeff, Ken, and Gary do have such a passion for it. Otherwise it would be a shame to lose track and sight of this aspect of climbing's history and heritage.

I'd also definitely encourage others to to keep their eyes open for such treasures and contribute whatever they can to these great collections.

And here's to you guys thinking about how and where your collections and legacies will end up residing over the long haul such that the public will gain access in either permanent and / or traveling exhibits.
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Mar 12, 2016 - 02:34pm PT
Thank you Stephane for your id of these cams. Your wealth of knowledge is invaluble.
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Mar 14, 2016 - 01:37am PT
Left to right: Micro 1/2, Steve Jones "Friend" 3/4 (1982/1983), unknown "Friend" 3/4 (similar to H's device), Wild Country Friend 1/2 (1st generation, 1986), Wild Country Friend 1/2 (2nd generation, 1986).
Your Associate truly would be an awesome addition to this collection...
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Mar 15, 2016 - 06:12am PT
No matter old or new, "mystery" is the "key word"...
I suspect that these are Salewa Quick Screw.
http://www.salewa.com/en/quick-screw.html
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Mar 15, 2016 - 02:17pm PT
I just have to say this has been a great learning experience for me. I just went through the Two Shipley cams for sale post:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=809995&tn=100
It was fasinating. Thanks Joe, Marty and Stephane for all you do.

My Associate I think is a 3/4. It measures 1"and 5/8 when deployed.
My "unknown" friend is a little different from yours Stephane only by an aditional hole between the head and trigger? The head measures 1 1/8 and 5/8 deployed.
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Apr 15, 2016 - 09:41am PT
Is there anybody here who could help me to identify this mysterious cam…?
Ukraine, Czech Republic, Canada, Korea…?
I must confess that I cannot make the job...:-(
Chossboss

Trad climber
The GNAR
Apr 15, 2016 - 04:39pm PT
Early model flexible friend?
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Apr 16, 2016 - 12:11am PT
Early model flexible friend?
No Chossboss. I have samples of all the generations of the Wild Country Flexible-Technical Friends (I have even seen the prototypes at the factory in 1996), so I suspect that this cam is just a beautiful duplicate...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Aug 15, 2016 - 07:47am PT

Salewa carabiner tested and extremely light. Is it hollow?

life is a bivouac

Trad climber
Bishop
Aug 15, 2016 - 03:46pm PT
Hello, Marlow,
Your 'biner is very similar to the R. Robbins hollow 'biners he sold in the mid '70s. His tested @ 3100 lbs. and looks the same except he had his name stamped on the long body side. Yes, indeed they were hollow.
Cheers! Russ
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 15, 2016 - 04:28pm PT
This model Salewa hollow biner was shown in a 1978 ad in Mountain magazine.
The R ROBBINS / Salewa hollow biners of 1978 were ovals (though otherwise very similar).
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1830238/Robbins-Salewa-hollow-carabiners
originalpmac

Mountain climber
Anywhere I like
Aug 15, 2016 - 05:23pm PT


Worlds largest piton. Any one know what it is?

I have a vague idea.
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
Aug 15, 2016 - 05:39pm PT
Marlow! Per your question & Russ's comment, Salewa made two "ultralight" (for the time) biners back around 1978. Robbins imported both of them with his name on them instead of Salewa.

The larger diameter one was hollow, & I think the skinnier one was solid.

Here's a Mountain magazine ad from 1/1978 that shows the Salewa hollow biner, and mentions it is available in the U.S.


And here's my photo of both Robbins/Salewa Biners. The hollow one is at bottom.

Roots

Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
Aug 15, 2016 - 06:15pm PT
^ re large piton up thread:

Any one know what it is?

It's Worlds largest homemade piton.. : )
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