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Rol
Trad climber
Ensenada
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Mar 10, 2015 - 02:37pm PT
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Rol
Trad climber
Ensenada
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Mar 10, 2015 - 02:40pm PT
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Rol
Trad climber
Ensenada
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Mar 10, 2015 - 02:46pm PT
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03/07/2015
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Rol
Trad climber
Ensenada
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Mar 10, 2015 - 02:50pm PT
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Mar 15, 2015 - 06:54pm PT
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Anyone got the gear beta for Pan Am or Giraffe. I know that if your freeing it like Honnold et al you don't need as much but the only topos I have look pretty old and call for 8-10 knifeblades and lost arrows each. Anyone done this recently and have a more modern gear list?
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
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Mar 16, 2015 - 10:15pm PT
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Texplorer,
PM sent with the beta.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Thinking about an overnighter in the next few days just to hangout, explore, and chill. Any essential new super-freshie beta? Do I really need a freakin' passport?!
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
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Hola Bob,
Officially, you will need a US Passport, Passport Card, or enhanced driver's license.
https://help.cbp.gov/app/answers/detail/a_id/74/~/us-citizens---documents-needed-for-entry-into-the-u.s.
Unofficially, many US citizens are returning (by land) with a regular driver's license. My recommendation is to have, at a minimum, a driver's license plus a birth certificate.
Sunday afternoon returns via Tecate mean long wait times. It's best to avoid Sundays or hit the border by 10:00 AM. Watch out for Tecate policia. They are looking for gringos to extort mordida. Stop at every sign and count to three. Watch the speed limits, posted in KPH and ridiculously slow in some places. Don't pay a mordida. Tell them you will follow to he station and pay the fine there. They will most likely back down. If they don't the station isn't far and the fine is cheaper than the mordida. Have you been on the toll road (cuota)? Far superior/safer and worth the $4.30 (current price). Exit the cuota at "Vallecito / La Rumorosa" sign at KM 68. Drive south 1/2 mile on the connector road to Hwy 2 "libre" free road. Turn left (east) for 1/2 mile.
There is a guard shack and barricade below Chichi de la India, about 4 miles down the dirt road. Nice guys working for the Rumorosa Wind Project who will write down your name and license plate number.
A gringo "Grigri" has been staying at basecamp, in his van, off and on for extended periods.
A plan to pave the road from La Rumorosa to the Parque Nacional/Laguna Hanson has been hatched, once again. There was a surveying crew at the turnoff to Tajo on Saturday. I'm hoping that this is a pet project of the current politicians and may be dropped with a change in administration. That is the case so often in Mexico. One can only hope. The current 6 year single term started in December 2012, so we are less than halfway into the term.
Big changes are coming to the area, either by wind generators (over 40 now installed near La Rumorosa), asphalt, or developers. Get down there and enjoy it while you can.
I've just completed a new 35' outdoor climbing wall over at Rancho el Topo (4 miles west). The first of its kind in the Sierra de Juárez, and maybe anywhere. Send me an e-mail or PM if you want more info to check it out.
The Baja 500 roared northward through the sierra on Saturday. It was quite the contrast to the usual solitude.
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Rol
Trad climber
Ensenada
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Jun 17, 2015 - 09:39am PT
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It is on , last June 10 the Sempra energy with is affiliate Lenova they star the mega projec PARQUE ELOICO SIERRA DE JUAREZ , were the mexican government grant 280 thousand hectares to istall wind towers to produce energy that will be send to california and usa , it is estimated that per tower they need to clean and cut one hectare ?? they did in the beginning
a study about the impact in the land but only for the ones thay are in la rumorosa , and now with the official start of this mega proyect wath aboute the other that are still to built, ADIOS to our lndnscape in la sierra imagine all the impact in the land ?? this is very bad . Why they dont do this proyect in USA land , be cuzz the US gov. are very srtic with there national park and landscape that is very good and that's the way is need to be in any country . The Mexican government for some Dlls they take off ther pantalones for company like this they come to mexico and damage the land and they go away like the mining and other .
Do not get me wrong ,I only say that these kinds of things bother me
i love Sierra the Juares and all about the out side world say beach , mountain , desert ,etc. with the times we are living in the future all that will disappear
you have to enjoy it while we can..
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jun 17, 2015 - 10:20am PT
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ROL....So sad. Having someone check you in at a booth bad enough to suggest change coming. I worry especially about my great friend Gri Gri who has fallen in love with the area and has considered it a refuge from the larger trappings of society for reasons beyond climbing. Very hard this day and age to find someplace left in the world not touched by development.
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Rol
Trad climber
Ensenada
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Jun 17, 2015 - 11:19am PT
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Hi Amigo
Yea it is very Sad , i pland to go up this next 27 hi say hi to grigri if he still there some weeks ago some frined went and see his van . i guess he is still up there , i am sure he is working on a new tunel ore a new adeventure in cañon tajo...
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Rol
Trad climber
Ensenada
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Jun 19, 2015 - 08:59am PT
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
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Jun 25, 2015 - 11:10am PT
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Hola Rolando,
You must know that the huge fire has burned from near Ojos Negros toward Laguna Hanson. It may have burned through the Parque Nacional. Friends at Rancho Alamar, about 10 miles east of Laguna Hanson, posted photos, but I don't know exactly where the photos were taken.
If you still plan to go to Tajo, you should go through La Rumorosa. Let's hope the wind doesn't shift to the north!
I will be at El Topo on Saturday June 27, training guides for the new climbing wall. Maybe Tajo on Sunday. If the fire changes direction, we might have to move the horses instead of climbing.
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Rol
Trad climber
Ensenada
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Hi
This is my 4 trip to tajo this year , everytime i go i find somthing new
and just think wath i will climb next time i go up , i hope it will in 2 weeks , hope to find a parther ore beley scalve jaaa to go every time i wanth , very dificult to find people that wath to adventure like you hahahaha
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
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Hola Rol,
Did you enjoy the Star Wars area and that route "Chewbacca"?
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Hi Rol.....I talked to Gri Gri a couple of weeks ago and he said he was heading to Tajo at the end of September so hopefully he's there. Climb on Amigo!
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Rol
Trad climber
Ensenada
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Hi Juanito , it is a great are to brake the ice for the firt day , it is wath i hit firt ...
Hello tony , yea is good to know alway is fun to talk to my friend grigri
He was supposed to call me last time he was to visit Enseanda in june ???
this last trip to tajo it was very quiet miss listen the drums in the nigth , i dont know but I fall asleep faster hahahaha
saludos amigos
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Rol
Trad climber
Ensenada
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Nov 26, 2015 - 01:22pm PT
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Hi Tony
I was with Grgri this last weekand in Tajo, he told me that you had to go up to la sierra for some fun granite climbing .
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Nov 27, 2015 - 04:17pm PT
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Hi Rol. Great you hooked up with Gri Gri! We hope to be down there in the New Year. It would be great to meet you there. How long are you there for?
Tony
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