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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Nov 20, 2016 - 07:41am PT
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The shoes Adam is putting on are 38.5 - his normal hiking shoes are 44!
I'm not sure what would be harder, climbing 5.14 or climbing in shoes that are several sizes below my normal walking shoe size.
Maybe I have more pain sensors in my feet, but I could never climb anything if my climbing shoe size was more than a full shoe size less than my normal walking shoe.
A good buddy of mine is a very strong climber (he sends El Cap routes free). We're "sole mates" in that his right foot is a 1/2 size bigger than his left and I am opposite. We wear the same climbing shoe sizes, so we buy two pair (one size apart) and switch the left shoes, making a great fit for both feet.
His street shoe size is a 11, I'm an 8 1/2. And I still have trouble with pain using the sizes he likes!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Nov 20, 2016 - 08:03am PT
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I think it's cool that Adam talks about the ratings in YDS instead of the French system.
When in Rome you use the Roman numeral system.
When in Yosemite you use YDS.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Nov 20, 2016 - 08:32am PT
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kudus to adam and his support crew. i am eating my words claiming that it would not be a euro that repeated this route, but an american that was willing to put in a multi year effort. but adam is, apparently, just that good. enjoying the show, and hoping they get a weather window soon to finish it off. ss
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Nov 20, 2016 - 08:35am PT
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Awesome, no matter what.
Adam has climbed the hardest part of the Dawn Wall on first go around. This was well within his ability and we can only wonder at what monolithic test pieces he may establish going forward.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 20, 2016 - 09:10am PT
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That's funny about his shoes.
In between his rehearsals, Adam was pulling his heels out of his shoes, and accordingly the shoes looked very perilously positioned on his feet.
I said something like, "Adam, be careful or you'll drop your shoes!" to which he replied something like, "Don't worry, I do this all the time!"
He was making some of the hardest climbing moves on the planet look pretty easy.
But he still made time to share a beer.
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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Nov 20, 2016 - 09:24am PT
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^^^^
they rapped back down to the camp they have set up below the crux pitches... so they won't be bivying at wino...
there are a lot more details about how the last six pitches went down [including an explanation of why and how he did the loop pitch that is, as usual, wonderfully transparent] over at black diamond's facebook post from ondra here.
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ajamunro
Social climber
BC
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Nov 20, 2016 - 09:39am PT
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That's a great photo Piton Pete!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 20, 2016 - 10:31am PT
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^^ Cheers, mate.
"...kinda worried about their plan to bivy at Wino Tower after Werner said how exposed it is in a storm to ice from above."
Pshaw. "Lovely" place....
Beautiful views of raging waterfalls...
Of course, it's only fun if you're trapped under your portaledge fly with the right partner. ;)
Hang in there, Adam. We even left you some water. But not beer.
PtPP: "Hey, Anita ... shall we leave these beers for Adam?"
Anita514: "Are you kidding? We're leaving the water and rapping with the booze!"
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 20, 2016 - 11:09am PT
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Noob question: are learning the hard moves on routes like this the same as learning hard bouldering moves, in that once you wire them you can repeat them? Or is it probabilistic in which the tries increases the odds of success but there is always uncertainty: so that once the moves are made, it is one-and-done?
This question was triggered by reading Adam's comments on not wanting to fall off the laybacking on pitch 17 because he would have to repeat the down climbing on Loop Pitch, Pitch 16 and in fact choose the Loop Pitch over the Dyno because the Dyno would only produce insecure results.
“Pitch 16 can be climbed via the dyno or the loop....I tried the dyno a few times in the last weeks, but I thought I would have to invest considerable effort into the dyno with insecure results, and that is why I decided to climb the loop pitch...."
“The loop pitch is an extremely hard pitch mentally. The down-climb is awkward, powerful and insecure and is the crux of the pitch for sure. At the bottom of the loop, there is a good ledge, but I could not sit down. As you start climbing, you get into a tiny layback with pin-scars, which is super easy to slip on. This section is probably at 5.13c, but it is really devastating if you slip and have to climb the down-climb again....
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drewsky
climber
Seattle
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Nov 20, 2016 - 11:32am PT
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It really depends on the moves. If they're not dependent entirely on finicky friction (IE, they're 'high percentage' moves), learning them is, as you say, the same as learning a hard boulder problem albeit with more climbing on either side of the hardest moves. It sounds like Adam is dealing with a ton of 'low percentage' climbing, wherein even if he were trying the moves completely rested, the nature of them means that they'll never be 100% secure.
It might seem counterintuitive, but it's basically the way a V10 boulder problem, though physically harder, is far more secure than a 5.11d friction slab assuming one is physically able to climb either.
One point in response to your comment about P16-17: Ondra is referring to an insecure lieback on P16 that starts just after the long downclimb. P17 is also a lieback but the pitches are broken up by a no-hands rest, which is also how Tommy Caldwell climbed the route.
Edit: also what he said ^^^^^^^
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Nov 20, 2016 - 11:58am PT
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Blasting from the top from Wino in one day will be rough. Lot of old school trad stuff up there with little if any fixed gear and that 5.12 flare up high is no gimme. But that's a championship performance so far - that's a fact.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Nov 20, 2016 - 12:54pm PT
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He onsighted the 5.12 flare above the ship's prow on the aid/free ascent to fix ropes, so that should not be a major barrier.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 20, 2016 - 03:41pm PT
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I'm 1/4 Czech, GCF's test is for junior high students.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 20, 2016 - 05:09pm PT
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I think that Adam's ascent and commentary will only add luster to Tommy and Kevin's masterpiece.The world's best rock climber has had to reach deep, very deep, to pull it off. It is clearly the world's greatest rock climb.
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Jay Hack
Trad climber
Detroit, Michigan
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Nov 20, 2016 - 05:25pm PT
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What a beautiful and visionary first ascent and now the second ascent is absolutely Next Level. Real fun to watch it evolve quickly from the armchairs.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 20, 2016 - 10:13pm PT
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I told yas ... ya gotta ditch the water, and rap with the booze!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 20, 2016 - 10:21pm PT
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Ya gotta ditch the water, and rap with the booze!
Who did that song, Slurp Dog?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 20, 2016 - 11:00pm PT
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We need to make a tshirt. ...
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