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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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May 31, 2015 - 01:09am PT
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Is that Tennis Racket still there in the crack? Man that thing is hard!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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May 31, 2015 - 01:34am PT
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Just for a bit of perspective: do we all acknowledge that "The Fake Eppulator" aka "The Cave Problem" is THE most popular boulder problem on the hill?
Um, NO! The "most popular"? How about The Practice Boulders, Sunday Afternoon Boulder, IHMT boulder, Black Finger, Elephant Trunk, Seminar Wall, Longs Cracks, Painted Boulder, Robbins Boulder, Lemon Chiffon, Uncertainty boulder, Driving South, Pick Pocket, Blasted Rock #2, Baby Robbins, Jaws, etc., etc.,? Did you note that on most of those a rope is needed? Woodson is NOT a "pad" area! Sure, they are part of many a climbers repetoire these days, but they won't do much good on most of what Woodson is "popular" for.
Edit: or were you differentiating "boulder problem" from TR? Sorry, now it's my turn to have the "know it all geezer mentality"...thanks Ron!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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May 31, 2015 - 11:22am PT
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I was just re-reading the "Sanstone Chronicles" and realized something:
If someone had said, "Has anyone checked out the ridge south of Woodson that heads east from Laverne and Shirley?" and I was the one who read it and decided to head up there and check it out, I'd have approached it the same way I always have since I was introduced to climbing in 1981. I'd have packed up my pack and started the recon process of finding out where this place was. Then once I found it (probably weeks later, for I'm historically lazy), I would scope out faces, cracks, etc., you guys know the drill (the "routine" not the drill bit...okay, some are you are familiar with the drill bit), and then figure out access to the top of the boulders and see if there are any established bolts on top. Remember, I'm looking for "freebies," the stuff that already has anchors and ropes, and chalk marks on them! If I didn't find any bolts, I'd be looking at how to set up natural anchors so I could toprope the problems. Speaking of, how come nobody brings up anchor building anymore? That was a craft that my mentor, Roger Barnes, instilled in me back in the day. Seriously, come on, most of you guys (most) know what I'm talking about, sometimes having to string MANY feet of chord/rope from a chockstone/tree/crack, sometimes up and over the top of the boulder and adjusting it just so, so that it is equalized and hanging properly over the top, making sure the biners gates are reversed, etc., etc. Maybe I was ASSUMING that others went about it the same way, and if so, events would have turned out different. Again, sorry about that Terry.
As far as your statement, " I have no interest in keeping people from enjoying the area," haha, yes you do/did, you selfish surfer you, lol! Relax Guy hit that one on the head, "surfer-like territorial grumpiness that unfortunately plagues too many of us." Were you already aware that Terry was a surfer?
Hey, how's your wife Terry? Tell her I said "Hi"... and how's your dog, is he still around?
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Friend
climber
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RG: There was a misprint in the old guide. When you get the turnoff to Laverne, you actually want to turn RIGHT and plunge directly through the undergrowth. The going is a little rough at first, but don't give up. Head due south for roughly a mile, then take a hard right at the bent tree trunk near a stump. When you get to the snake hole with the two pine cones sitting by the entrance, you are getting really close. Bear 20 deg ESE and go straight up hill for 3/4 mi. There's no trail for this last bit, and a fair bit of poison oak, but it's well worth it. It's easily the finest hand crack in SD county, if not So cal entirely.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I'm liking the looks of those cracks!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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When you get the turnoff to Laverne, you actually want to turn RIGHT and plunge directly through the undergrowth. The going is a little rough at first, but don't give up. Head due south for roughly a mile, then take a hard right at the bent tree trunk near a stump. When you get to the snake hole with the two pine cones sitting by the entrance, you are getting really close. Bear 20 deg ESE and go straight up hill for 3/4 mi.
Friend. You had me lmao on this discription on how to find that hand crack. Hope nobody removes one of the pine cones, or we'll never find it. Still, I'm thinking we could find it after I buy a bottle of TechNu.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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If my memory serves me correct, that tennis racket is/was buried in near the top, almost as if it's tempting you to grab it while you're in the most desperate, off-fist section of the crack...that thing sucks!
That 5.9 slant crack you speak of is right on/off the road just back west a few steps down 67 from the trail to "Cerro Terre." Or maybe it's just up the road? It's there close by. Myself, Ken Klis, and Yoshi (Japanese friend visiting Ken at the time), did it back in '84-85ish? Apparently there wasn't too many cracks back in Japan where Yosh was from and he didn't have any crack skills. I recall Yoshi struggling on it and in desperation started lay backing. Ken immediately started barking,"Must jam clack Yoshi, must jam clack!" And Yoshi would grunt back, "Can't jam clack, must ray back!" Lol, but anyhow, it's nestled in the trees there right off the road. My goodness...I just realized that Friend is on the darn thing in the photo!!! Honestly, I didn't recognize it being that open! Awesome Friend, thanks for a blast from the past!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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The crack on the back of Tennis Racket? It's been 30 years, I have no recollection, and I don't recall trying any others after getting hammered on TRC. Btw, are you taking the somewhat "jungle" direct approach below, then up to Laverne? Cause if you are, that 5.9 crack is definitely back down 67 on the left.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Speaking of splitters...Friend, dial this one in and get a video...always heard it's been third classed!
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Friend
climber
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Mother superior landing zone looks pretty suboptimal for bouldering to me! ! Who has bouldered that one?
Edit paging bvb
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Again, if my memory serves me correct, Mike Paul, didn't you tell me you third classed the left variation? I never wired the left, which is suppose to be the easier (11b/c) of the two. As far as the landing? The back slab is your Friend for pretty much the whole climb. I always wondered if I could stop myself using the two walls, had I came off at any point...similar to Jaws but even friendlier? I wouldn't doubt if Piggot solo'd it, as well as others. How about Bedford, did he? I'm sure someone will chime in.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Mother superior landing zone looks pretty suboptimal for bouldering to me!
Since pads weren't thought of yet, but rather a scrap piece of carpet to wipe your feet prior to leaving the ground, falling was what you were suppose to be avoiding when climbing. Therefore, making the decision to do a problem unroped took a LOT of mental preparation. Ask Honnold, he'll give you all the beta, lol!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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To my knowledge MS never got soloed. However, I have been wrong before.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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I was walking down Woodson one evening and after running into M. Paul, we stopped to look at M.S. I could swear he told me then that he did the left variation unroped...I could be wrong too. And, I believe that was the same night that, after asking about his accident in Josh, he told me that his climbing actually got stronger after losing his finger. To feel somewhat worthy, I told him I finally bouldered IHMT, and asked if he could give me a spot when we got down to the bottom of the mountain. He obliged and then did the same right after me. Too cool!
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Jun 18, 2015 - 03:30pm PT
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i never heard of mother superior being soloed, greg cameron would be the most likely suspect if it has. Thats mighty big talk there, relax.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Jun 26, 2015 - 11:26pm PT
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Is the asphalt melting up there yet?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Piggot soloed MS for Ron Kauk prior to the '86 contest when Kauk said, "I think I'll take a rope."
I recall trading pants with Jeff Almadovar and wore his Levis, then succeeded on MS at the contest. I was told by the judge that I was the second person, after Kauk, to try it that morning. Pretty memorable seeing that I got my knee stuck the last I tried it!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Just found a post I made on Mountainproject back in 2007:
"The left branch of MS goes at 5.11b. True Story: Back in the early 80's I saw a guy highball this variation drunk at sundown almost in the dark! I have no idea who this wrap around glasses character was!"
I associated this faint memory with Mike Paul but, obviously, I was mistaken.
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Ward Trotter
Trad climber
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Jul 18, 2015 - 04:53pm PT
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Thunderstorms is right. Mean and nasty. Scary.
Found some dry slab underneath a house-sized boulder.
Beat a hasty retreat once the rain went heavy and the Lightning started.Still worth the long drive.
Didn't see any " locals" Lol
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