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Risk
Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
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Jul 10, 2013 - 12:28am PT
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If (when?) I visit Eldo, my main impression of the people of Eldo Springs will be as they have represented themselves here.
I will never forget this dialog no matter what the outcome. A parallel is San Juan Island up here; my great grandparents had a 40-acre sheep ranch with a 180-degree view from the Gulf Islands to Port Angeles (http://www.marvistaresort.com);. It's now essentially a hostel and has stayed as it was back when my grandmother was a little girl in 1900. Million dollar estates all around, but that's America in 2013. Get used to the change, ES.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jul 10, 2013 - 12:34am PT
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So many first-time posters have vetted their opinions here.
Kind of frightening how the bees swarm the internet hive to protect their perceived nest.
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Kneebar
Trad climber
Columbus, Ohio
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Jul 10, 2013 - 11:14am PT
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Is there anything from the beginning or now that the Eldo residents would except at the the site? If not what is the point of communication other then being whipped.
Ken
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Jul 10, 2013 - 11:21am PT
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^^^^MMJ store could be a good alternative use LOL
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Janet Robinson
climber
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Jul 10, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
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Its refreshing to see the residents of Crested Butte being given credit for objecting to the NEW OVERNIGHT "vacationing" visitors and the negative effect they had on the residents quality of life.
I was also fortunate to call Crested Butte my home from 1990 to 1995. I am familiar with the intelligent, calm locals who live there.
If you have been to both Eldorado Springs and Crested Butte you will know there are many similiarities to both towns.
I know the residents of the small town of Crested Butte would have a similiar response to those in Eldorado Springs if their school bus stop was to be obliterated and their delicate sewer system compromised.
Janet Robinson
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jopay
climber
so.il
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Jul 10, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
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That was probably some expensive sewer system, would have to rock cut it I imagine, and is it connected to some other municipal system or is it a mini treatment system. Former plumbing contractor from the mid west I'm always intrigued by how the utilities are provided for with so much bedrock. Eldorado is a special place, I hope the best decision can be arrived at.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Jul 10, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
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Its refreshing to see the residents of Crested Butte being given credit for objecting to the NEW OVERNIGHT "vacationing" visitors and the negative effect they had on the residents quality of life.
Well Janet I brought up CB for two reasons. One is it offers several similarities with ES and second because I have a connection since the 70's there as well. I think you have somewhat skewed what my intention was to fit your entrenched argument. The Local residents fought for and won access to the open lands of the Bench not just for their use but for ALL visitors to CB. The Bench was and still is a wonderful asset to the community and other than the private property lines it is open to everyone to enjoy. The locals fought against the other "locals" who had tried to impose exclusive access. Those other "localls were certainly only occasional residents but the were also private property owners who had rights to their land but failed in their attempt to impose NIBYISM on the surrounding land.
Crested Butte is better for it.
Having been very connected to the Gunnison / Crested Butte area since 1975 I can with some assurance disagree with you regarding the CB locals response to something akin to what the AAC has proposed. It is my firm belief that a large majority of the affected residents would welcome a Climber's Lodge / Hostel. That's not to say that a small percentage of the "I got mine now go away" Nimby's wouldn't vociferously disagree. It is interesting to note that many of the emotionally charged arguments foisted by the CB Nimbys in the fight for the Bench mirror exactly those used by some residents of ES regarding the AAC climber's Lodge. They also tried to assassinate the character of the other land users. Land users who fought tooth and nail to protect CB and it's spectacular environs from the misguided attempt by the Climax Molybdenum Co to waste the Red Lady Mountain. And for their hard work (by the way the CB locals alone would have never stood a chance standing up to the mining co without much broader support) the were labeled as despicably as the Eldo climbers have been. The Nimby's efforts to denigrate the other land users ultimately back fired on them and some still have egg on their faces.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Jul 10, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
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Just wanted to say Thanks to Mark Kroese and Phil Powers for returning my email today.
Very much appreciated.
Janet Robinson.
That is nice that they have peeked out from behind their supposed veil of secrecy.
So Janet what did they say to you. Can we insist on your "transparency"?
Given the frothy protest about lack of AAC transparency it seems only fair that you should be held to the same standard that you demand. Doesn't it?
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Jul 10, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
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Lovegasoline
Trad climber
Sh#t Hole, Brooklyn, NY
Jul 10, 2013 - 09:34am PT
In almost thirty years of living here, I've never encountered or heard of any negative confrontation.
Oh c,mon Neal, your memory starting to go.
Tell us how many times you have been mugged walking home. I can recall at least three times. The ES residents have every right to be concerned their children will be sodomized by visiting climbers.
Think of the children!
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Jul 10, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
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Hostel in Eldo...there goes the neighborhood.
Yeah I'm rollin' down Rodeo(Eldo) wit a shotgun
These people ain't seen a brown skin man
Since their grandparents bought one
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ncrockclimber
climber
The Desert Oven
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Jul 10, 2013 - 05:02pm PT
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That is nice that they have peeked out from behind their supposed veil of secrecy.
So Janet what did they say to you. Can we insist on your "transparency"?
Given the frothy protest about lack of AAC transparency it seems only fair that you should be held to the same standard that you demand. Doesn't it?
100% agree. Janet has been more than willing to post other correspondences. Why not this one? Where is your transparency now?
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jul 10, 2013 - 05:13pm PT
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I still don't understand why the AAC would want to build a lodge at Eldo. Sure, its not a bad place to climb, but it also has a lot of polished and loose rock and it's definitely not the place it used to be 20 or 30 years ago.
I climbed there a bit back in the 90's and I thought the place was great. Now, I tend to only go there with visiting climbers so they can tick it off and see some of the history.
If the AAC really wants to spend up to a million dollars building a lodge, how about a campground or lodge close to Yosemite? That would be a worthwhile goal, since Camp 4 sucks these days.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Jul 10, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
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It is curious that some have used this opportunity to dis on Eldo as a climbing destination.
How long have you been climbing JohnMac? Eldo is in fact "all that and a bag of chips".
Just because it isn't a colorfully taped gym or grid bolted choss pile and that it scares the sputum out of modern climbers doesn't mean it's significance is dimmed in any way.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Jul 10, 2013 - 05:26pm PT
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Phil...John has a right to his opinion. I tend to agree after climbing there for almost 40 years...some really great and classic routes, most not nearly as run out with modern gear as they used to be and new additions are at a almost stand still pace because of regulations.
It is not the destination that it once was...period. Doing the Edge 30 times is so out of style. :-)
I kinda like the idea of a hostel closer to all the areas giving visiting climbing a choice of where to climb.
The really funny part about this whole deal is that the ES residents really think they are a progressive bunch...further could it be from the truth. A scare bunch would be a better title.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jul 10, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
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I still don't understand why the AAC would want to build a lodge at Eldo. Sure, its not a bad place to climb, but it also has a lot of polished and loose rock and it's definitely not the place it used to be 20 or 30 years ago.
What catastrophe has befallen Eldo in the interim?
Or is it that you have climbed most of the classic trad routes there and have moved on to other pursuits?
There are many incredible routes in Eldo and that has not (and will not) change.
Having a place where traveling climbers can stay without having to spend huge sums on hotels and rental cars (or knowing someone who lives nearby that you can "visit") -- is the epitome of anti-elitist. However, based upon the comments registered here, the same cannot be said for those opposing this rather modest proposal.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Jul 10, 2013 - 05:32pm PT
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Climbing areas are not "GREAT" because they have the biggest baddest numbers. They are great for the history and development they inspired and continue to inspire. I'd dare say that a climber ticking off a clean onsight of Jules Verne at 5.11b R has accomplished something of far greater significance to themselves than doing the latest 5.whocares at the "In Crag" D'Jour.
Or by that contrary reasoning areas like the Black Canyon are utterly insignificant and might as well be avoided because there are no 5.whocares there.
Bob how well do you remember your first trip up the Edge?
Was it significant to you or just another couple of rope lengths?
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Jul 10, 2013 - 05:33pm PT
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looking wrote: What catastrophe has befallen Eldo in the interim?
I don't know where you been the last 20-30 years but the climbing scene has changed along with the kinda routes that climber pursue.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Jul 10, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
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That is your opinion Phil, done both and it all feel good to me, but that is just me.
The funny part about Jules Verne is the first pitch is the money pitch (which seldom gets climbs) as other pitch the fall is long but safe.
Phil...it is funny to see you doing the same thing that you accuse John of doing.
Phil..I remember it well..it was like a sport climb back then (1978) using all the fixed gear. :-)
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Jul 10, 2013 - 05:40pm PT
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What is that, what am I doing?
I dissed no climbing area. Only the notion that only the biggest numbers or latest fads matter to the climbing world.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Jul 10, 2013 - 05:41pm PT
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Phil......something about Crag dujour. Ok..got it"latest 5.whocares at the "In Crag" D'Jour"
Maybe John doesn't like eldo for the same reason you don't like 5.who cares in Crag d'jour.
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