Cerro Torre, A Mountain Consecrated - The Resurrection of th

You will get to replace the bolts with new material next year .....

He went back with a compressor and drilled a bunch of bolts. He got what technology offered him at that time. I am not that surprised in what he did at that time, with the "enviromental" knowledge of that time.

our passage should go unnoticed among those mounts.

but our fear of change inhibits our purity.
maestri was pure afraid of dying. so he shot the place
foul of hole, to ensure his soul.

though really,
his soul was already consumed by fear.

death is his, boss.
and death defines many.

these fools flail wildly in all of their's pursuit.

we whom co-inherit death and life strive for purity of passage in
difficult realms.

the mounts are there, always receiving warriors and fools, alike.

they are beyond us. the mounts.
they are eternal.

but we, finite beings of soft flesh and vunerable systems
can exploit the high and cold and make less sense of their and of our world,

and according to this accepted confusion we've transcended the fear-mongers
whom murder every potential mystery with a submission of their spirit to god.

brave young surgery
removing the vulgar scar
abusive lover

so, no more free rides
from inadequate suitors
or soulless lovers

we are so sorry
you have to try harder now
she's worth it, you know?

The Path is not a sport route that got chopped, it’s a
f*#king trad route that got bolted. I didn’t chop the
bolts so much as I restored the climb.

Besides, some of the bolts were in the wrong place anyway.

Someone once asked me if the Compressor route on Cerro
Torre should get chopped, my honest answer is this – I
don’t know enough about the climb to say one way or
the other. I am far too removed to make any sort of
judgment. How can I begin to think that I have the
voice to answer that question. In regards to the
Path, yes, I think the bolts should be removed, not
because I am happy with a hacksaw, but because the
climb is a safe, obvious, well protected trad climb
and NEVER should have been bolted in the first place.

It bugs me when people want to make climbing safe for
everyone, more accessible to everyone. Well then, why
don’t we bolt the blood out of every great crag and
then pave the road to the base, maybe around the side
of the Lake so we won’t have to walk as far, so
climbers won’t have to carry some cams, so that we
won’t have to get out of our cars to get coffee,
instead we can just sit in a ridiculous parade around
the parking lot, waving our money out the widow.

I did not remove the bolts to make any sort of
statement. I am against the practice of placing
expansion bolts next to cracks or other natural lines
than can otherwise be protected safely and easily. I
am not against bolting, I have put up tons of bolted
routes, and I love sport climbing (that plug was for
the guy who told me to “remember where I come from” as
though hard sport is all I’m allowed to do) but there
is a time and place for power drills. If I upheld a
lesser ethic, I would have chopped the East Face of
Monkey Face, but I didn’t because it is not my route
and I have too much respect for the F.A. to make any
changes. The Path however was abandoned and I had an
opportunity to make a decision for myself on how I
wanted this climb to be approached. If I never told
anyone that I removed bolts, would web surfers on
Gripped be having this discussion at all? The way I
see it, some things in this world need to remain
sacred and I stand behind that. F*#k it – even if
both climbs get retro bolted tomorrow (which I don’t
think will happen, as I know 3-4 people personally who
are all excited to give the route a go) then all I can
say is that I did what I thought was the best thing to
do for that particular climb and life goes on.