Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
Hell yeah Vitaliy.. Stoked for you man. Super rad!!
|
|
Stewart Johnson
Social climber
lake forest
|
|
Jay Smith and Craig Reason
Soloed the Widows Tears in 1985
I believe
|
|
fosburg
climber
|
|
And thumbs up to the "Valley Local"!
|
|
F
climber
away from the ground
|
|
If you don't spray about it on Facebook, or Supertopo, within a week, It never happened......
|
|
chappy
Social climber
ventura
|
|
Awesome Vitaly! And also congrats to the other soloist(and successful summiters!). I hope I never hear the news of someone being on a Yosemite ice route when it collapses. In retrospect Kev and I were very lucky on the FA. I hope the ice comes in again in the next two months...there are some amazing new possibilities out there. What was that you were attempting to climb Vitaly?
|
|
fosburg
climber
|
|
You guys were visionary Mark
|
|
chappy
Social climber
ventura
|
|
Fosburg!
I thought you and Walt really carried the torch there for a few years. Complete Sentinal Falls...how awesome is that! As you know in the right conditions there are some amazing new possibilities. Can't wait till they get done!
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
|
|
Nice send(s) fellers!
Hearing about ephemeral Valley Ice getting ticked always gets me stoked for adventure. Way to get out there and go big and cold. Proud.
|
|
F
climber
away from the ground
|
|
Burchy- That was 10 years ago. It never happened.
My post directed at V was meant to indicate that some Avalanche education, specifically on human factors, might save his life. Some people don't take kindly to suggestions like that. It's hard to divorce yourself from your ego and realize your own ignorance, trust me, I've been there. I sincerely hope he can look back on his formative years and say, "Man, I did some stupid sh#t back in the day, I'm glad I'm still alive and am making an effort to be more knowledgeable about traveling and climbing in mountains."
I wish someone had encouraged me to research human factors in avalanches years ago, it would have saved me from some serious injuries and a few true near death experiences.
Props for doing a climb. But positive reinforcement is also a human factor issue in the mountains. If all you hear is praise, and nobody kindly points out some wisdom you should acquire, it reinforces poor judgment indirectly.
XOXOXO YAY!!!
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
Oh cry us a river F
We all did stoopid sh!t daily.
I lived and climbed with some of the craziest m'fokers ever.
Some lived and some didn't .......
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
Sometimes an ego has to be set aside before you can start sincerely educating yourself.
or posting online.
My post directed at V was meant to indicate that some Avalanche education, specifically on human factors, might save his life.
maybe i dunno email him or sumthin instead o' callin' him out or sumthin???
|
|
F
climber
away from the ground
|
|
That's right. Some live and some don't, I'd like to see V live.
I've watched a lot of mountain folks through their formative years. I've noticed patterns in the process. A lot of young strong folks "bounce" when they start pushing it out there. Some learn, some don't. Some die and some don't. I'm just offering advice on how to avoid avoidable hazards by being educated. Like I said, I wish I had some wisdom passed on to me the easy way instead of the hard way.
Peace.
|
|
F
climber
away from the ground
|
|
I think you missed the irony in my post Burchy. It happened. Ten years ago. I only got around to spraying about it now.... Ergo - it never happened.
GD - It's hard to divorce yourself from your ego and realize your own ignorance, trust me, I've been there. I
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
Hell yeah. Great job Vitaly. Is it the longest in the lower 48? I have seen some pretty long looking ones in MT. I have seen pictures of really big routes in Glacier. Let's here some MT people chime in here. Those upper pitches look awesome.
|
|
F
climber
away from the ground
|
|
Yep, the human factor... And how it influences our decision making in the mountains. I'm sure you've studied it, in the Avalanche education you've taken, right Burchy?
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Yes, I have to say it is really impressive that the route got done back in the late 1970s and the party had so much will power to bivy twice on it in winter. When you guys were topping out the grins must of been giant.
With the right conditions, the valley could be such a Disneyland for ice climbers...I wish the temperatures were colder on average in winter. Imagine having some of the best access to bigwalls AND to LONG ice routes in one park!? In the same time, it is nice to have these occasional spells so that people who frequent the area can get mega excited for something different. This three day window was the first time the Tears were climbable in 3 years! Congratulations to the other guy who has free soloed it too. Glad he was safe! And is climbing with ice tools and crampons still considered free soloing or were we aid climbing? ;)
Sometimes an ego has to be set aside before you can start sincerely educating yourself. Props for doing a climb. But positive reinforcement is also a human factor issue in the mountains. If all you hear is praise, and nobody kindly points out some wisdom you should acquire, it reinforces poor judgment indirectly.
Hey F, if you have a personal problem with me, I'd be happy to get to know you some time in person. Usually, people get along better face to face and you can see for yourself if I do have an issue with my ego or not. I shared my story as an example of what could potentially happen when you push it with the temps. Neither my friends or I wanted it to happen, obviously, but it did. We learned a lesson that day. I did not share it in a PROUD OF MY BADASS EXTREME EXPERIENCE ALMOST GETTING WHOPPED! context, but into look what could have happened if we bailed a few minutes later context, no? Similar ice fall slide could have hurt anyone on the tears that day, are you gonna go after them too because they chose to climb (one did so unroped) on the day with rising temps? Don't you think I had to step over my ego in order to share my screw up in a public forum? The whole point was to encourage safety, that's all. If you have something that bothers you about me in particular, email me and we can have a normal, private conversation. Same goes for anyone else...these childish passive aggressive remarks are fairly lame.
|
|
F
climber
away from the ground
|
|
i don't have a problem with you, V. In fact I think you have a lot of potential that I don't want to see snuffed. That's why I offered the advice sincerely. If you, or Burchy, want to get puffed up about someone suggesting that Avalanche education is a good idea for anyone who recreates in the mountains, then you haven't divorced yourself from your ego yet. You'd be asking for suggestions on where to get said education instead if you had.
I saw myself go through the process. It took me longer than it should go divorce my ego and get schooled. I almost didn't make it. Like I said before, I'd like to see your potential realized. I wish someone had said those very words to me at one time.
Burchy- if 3 seconds on the Google is all the research you've done into human factors in avalanches, I'd suggest an AVY 1 course for you too.
|
|
F
climber
away from the ground
|
|
So are you asking where to take an AVY 1 class Burchy? Or just trying to one up someone offering hard earned wisdom?
I could google it for you, but I'm not sure where the closest Avalanche education classes are to your location.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
I am no pro, but i have read a book about snow travel before climbing in Peru. Also, to prove the rumors of me having an inflated ego, I want to point out, I have a photo of myself up on my wall. That's before I conquered the top of the lower 48 bro :))
now can we please stop this discussion in a thread about yosemite ice? It is completely off topic.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!